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  #11  
Old 02-22-2021, 02:11 PM
Mckay Mckay is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taltruda View Post
Holes for bolts, pins, ect.. reamed holes are ideal. Want even better surface finish? Why not hone holes? But for rivets, a drill makes a perfectly acceptable hole. If you ever had to drill out a rivet in a reamed hole, the rivet shank is more likely to spin, while in an imperfect drilled hole, they donít spin and are much harder to push out the shank. I am perfectly content drilling my rivet holes as opposed to reaming, unless itís in a place where I canít access between sheets to deburr, then Iíll ream to minimize the burr thatís created by a drill. Thousands of RVs are flying around with drilled holes, many more other planes, so to the person (Caribbean10) who asked if they NEED to drill undersized then team to final size, the answer is no you do not.
Ever work in the industry?
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2021, 09:45 AM
rongawer rongawer is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Brentwood, CA
Posts: 701
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I’m in the “drill undersize and ream to size” camp for any close tolerance applications, such as the spar cap where you want the tightest fit. For everything else, a high quality drill does fine.

Keeping in mind that running a reamer through a hole to final drill takes the same time and effort as a drill, aside from the cost of a reamer, there’s not a lot of reason not use one.
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- RV10, N762G, Build in progress.
- Several others that are now just great memories for me.
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2021, 09:48 AM
ewumnrr ewumnrr is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: SAN DIEGO
Posts: 21
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To answer the original question, yes, if the plans say to use 3/32, you cannot use a #40 bit (yet). Now later, when you are asked to match drill the holes to #40, that is the point of time you may use a reamer (I do).
The reason some holes are first drilled with a 3/32 bit is that another part will come on top with 3/32 holes and the clecos wouldn't strap that properly in place if it were already #40 holes.
Same story for drilling 1/8, then later #30.
I also have the Cleaveland kit and it doesn't come with some standard size drill bits, like 3/32 and 1/8. You need to use a general good quality shop drill bit set for that.
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  #14  
Old 02-25-2021, 05:23 AM
Dr_Dave_MT Dr_Dave_MT is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Helena, Montana
Posts: 2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caribbean10 View Post
So the RV-10 build instructions tell you to match drill the HS spar caps into the spar flanges using a 3/32" drill (Not a #40 drill). In a later step, you come back and final drill some of those holes using a #40.

My tool kit didn't come with a 3/32" bit. So can I match drill these holes using #40 or do I have to use a 3/32"? And if I do have to use a 3/32, would I be fine using my regular Home Depot Dewalt multipurpose 3/32" bit or do I need to get something better?
I have a newer RV-10 kit, thus some ďfinalĒ drilled holes in materials from factory . Spoke to Support Team at Vanís about Final Drilling. So I now just ream the holes not already to final size. (I also made a tool with rivets on a dowel to check all the alleged ďfinal sizeĒ holes from Vanís) The 3/32 x1/8 issue is for initial fit and Cleco fitting. Make sure to use split point drill bits to prevent ďwalkingĒ and my technique is to rotate drill manually to start. Oh, ya. And for the critical match drilling, i.e. spar caps, doublers, keep the Homebrew beer far, far away. -dl
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