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RV-10 3D Prints to support your build

jwilliams2020

I'm New Here
Long-time lurker, first time poster. Firstly, thanks to this amazing community for the near-infinite amount of knowledge (I won't dwell on that point too long, you all already know you're awesome).

I'm a new-builder, received my empennage in late May and have been slowly building ever since. Along the way, I've designed a few different things to help with my build: Cleco stands and trays, storage bins, rivet set holders, trailing edge wedge jigs, etc. The picture below is of (almost) all of the things that I've designed and printed for my build so far, and I thought who better to share this with than the Van's builder community! If you're interested, I have a detailed blog post on all of the parts here: https://www.jeraero.com/2021/08/13/3d-printed-tools-initial-backlog/. And if you just want to go directly to the STLs, here's where they're hosted: https://thangs.com/jwilliams2020/JerAero-RV10-Assembly-Tools-23840

Most of the prints:




p.s. Advance apologies if you thought this was the ever-fabled complete set of 3D plans for the RV-10, alas, I haven't discovered those yet - if someone has, please let met know (I've been flirting with the idea of measuring and recreating each part in CAD as I build, but I fear that's going to add another year or two to the build)
 
That is awesome!!! As a just starting builder, waiting on kits and organizing my shop, this will likely push me over the edge to buy a 3D printer.

Thanks for posting this!
 
Do it!

That is awesome!!! As a just starting builder, waiting on kits and organizing my shop, this will likely push me over the edge to buy a 3D printer.

That’s awesome Phil, I’d say go for it (buying a 3d printer), they’ve come a long way over the past few years and even the budget-friendly Enders are pretty solid out of the box, especially when printing PLA. I suspect you’ll find many uses for it (I know I have, even just around organization), it’s amazing the difference a custom-sized storage container will make.
 
Long-time lurker, first time poster. Firstly, thanks to this amazing community for the near-infinite amount of knowledge (I won't dwell on that point too long, you all already know you're awesome).

I'm a new-builder, received my empennage in late May and have been slowly building ever since. Along the way, I've designed a few different things to help with my build: Cleco stands and trays, storage bins, rivet set holders, trailing edge wedge jigs, etc. The picture below is of (almost) all of the things that I've designed and printed for my build so far, and I thought who better to share this with than the Van's builder community! If you're interested, I have a detailed blog post on all of the parts here: https://www.jeraero.com/2021/08/13/3d-printed-tools-initial-backlog/. And if you just want to go directly to the STLs, here's where they're hosted: https://thangs.com/jwilliams2020/JerAero-RV10-Assembly-Tools-23840

Most of the prints:




p.s. Advance apologies if you thought this was the ever-fabled complete set of 3D plans for the RV-10, alas, I haven't discovered those yet - if someone has, please let met know (I've been flirting with the idea of measuring and recreating each part in CAD as I build, but I fear that's going to add another year or two to the build)

I really like what you’ve done here. PM also sent.
 
Very cool. Thanks for sharing! I will definitely be printing some of these out. Thanks for the blog as well. Seems to be high quality with some great information.

Happy Building!
Paolo
 
Awesome job. I bought a semi-build tail and wing from another builder and start organizing my shop. I started out drawing out some cut outs to laser cut organizing trays for bits and squeezer sets. I will use some of your designs to 3d print. Thanks for sharing.
 
While you guys are at it, I'd highly recommend printing Jim Delveau's drill guides for various torque tubes. Much more effective than cutting out paper and trying to centre punch the cross hairs. Available to download on thingiverse.

https://www.thingiverse.com/rvjimd/designs
 

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Jeremy -- that's awesome! Thanks for sharing the files. Printed on a Voron too!

My Voron builds have been getting in the way of airplane building...
 

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While you guys are at it, I'd highly recommend printing Jim Delveau's drill guides for various torque tubes. Much more effective than cutting out paper and trying to centre punch the cross hairs.

Awesome, thanks for the tip, I'll remember that when I get to the torque tubes!

Printed on a Voron too!

My Voron builds have been getting in the way of airplane building...

Looks like it, hopefully you've got one of those frames going up for the recently released Trident! Personally, I'm using all my will-power to NOT build a v0.1 as my 'backup' printer and instead direct all energy towards building the 10.
 
3D printed avionics

Anybody have 3D printed boxes of all Garmin devices and VPX-PRO and FLY-EFII.

Love to use them for layout of the panel and sub-panel?

Thanks
 
I was looking on thangs, all I see is your cleco organizer part. I’m definitely interested in printing up some organization! Im only printing with a lowly ended 3, but it’s not a bad little machine. Definitely worth its price for the fun of dabbling in printing 3D.
 
I was looking on thangs, all I see is your cleco organizer part. I’m definitely interested in printing up some organization! Im only printing with a lowly ended 3, but it’s not a bad little machine. Definitely worth its price for the fun of dabbling in printing 3D.

I uploaded all of the parts on Thangs as a multi-part submission, to see all of the parts, click into the part navigator at the lower right (shown in my screenshot). If you don't see the navigator, just click where the 'x' is shown in the lower right of my screenshot (it'll be a ^), and that will expand the part navigator for you.

Alternatively, you can always just click 'download all' and you'll get all of the STL files too.

Also, the Ender3 is a solid machine, it'll be able to print just about everything I uploaded except for the cleco holder (the cleco holder is probably too large for the build plate on the Ender3). Give a shout if you were interested in printing that part and I can probably slice it down a bit to fit a 250mm buildplate.
 

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Jeremy, this is very cool. I don't have a 3D printer, but one of my sons does and he's made your rivet tool set tray and drill bit trays - very nice. Thank you for posting and sharing your innovations.
 
This is pretty neat. I gotta find someone with a 3D printer, the Online companies wanted around $900 bucks to print a few of theses. Crazy!
 
Mike- What part/part combination were they quoting you that much for - because that’s insane. I haven’t run the math, but all of those parts, combined, should be less than 1kg of plastic, and a 1kg spool of high quality plastic retails for about $35.

If you can’t find anyone to print the parts you’re looking for, shoot me a PM, happy to help you out.
 
Managed to print a bunch of these parts in PLA. Really fantastic, thanks for sharing. My organization has been kicked up a few notches with these!
 
3D printed templates for AA6 fabrication

I was about to make a new thread in the new 3D prints section for this, but this thread already has a perfect title for it. I love the new section! Jeremy and Andy - I delayed my RV-10 build a long time by getting distracted building a Voron 2.4 earlier this year. I'm going to count that as training time though, because wiring that printer was a great practice ground for getting ready to wire the panel. :D

I have been using 3D printed templates for the more "measurement-intensive" fabrication tasks in the tailcone:
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I've been creating the template by modeling the AA6 stock in Solidworks, creating an extrusion shape for the template that nests on the front side, then using "extruded cuts" on both the angle and the template following the dimensions from the plans. The key is that you dimension everything off of the aluminum angle so that the dimensions of the template are correct once they are nested together. It sounds complicated, but it's actually harder to describe than to do.

Once you have the template 3D printed you cut your AA6 stock with a bit of extra length, drill one #40 starter hole, and can cleco the template to the angle to trace around:

20220818_190538.jpg


Remove the template so it doesn't melt from the heat, then just cut/grind/file/whatever to the lines. Unlike a paper template, if your marks get screwed up you can just cleco the template back on and trace again. You can tell if you've hit your dimensions with a quick line up of the template and part without having to break out the calipers and go reference the plans again.

It's probably overkill, but I had fun doing it and it gave me more confidence to take on these parts that felt easier to screw up.
 
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This is pretty neat. I gotta find someone with a 3D printer, the Online companies wanted around $900 bucks to print a few of theses. Crazy!

You may want to look at Prusa's world-wide listing of registered 3D printer users for someone in your area. Looks like about 30,000 in the US. The listing indicates the user's 3D printer equipment, level of interest and includes doing printing for third parties. I am sure the print quality is all over the place depending on the experience level, printer tune-up state, and filament quality.

https://world.prusa3d.com/

John Salak
RV-12 N896HS
 
Tyson - That's awesome, glad to see another fellow Voron and RV builder (I too am hoping that the wiring experience I gained on the Voron build pays off a little bit when I get to avionics-install-time).

I've also used the template-via-3D model a bit on my build too (so far, for the fairly benign step of locating the holes in the HS-1008 (the horizontal stabilizer attach brackets we machine out of the aluminum angle). Picture of this at the bottom of the post.

You're ahead of me with your build so I haven't gotten to the AA6 stock machining step yet - if you're open to it, would you mind sharing the models / OBJs / STLs?

Did you find that you had to correct your prints for dimensional accuracy? I didn't have to adjust for PLA (though I did test it), but on the ABS I print with, I have a correction factor of about 1% (so each X/Y dimension I model in CAD has a factor of 101% applied to it - this accounts for the shrinkage of ABS in the XY plane). If you're curious, I tested for this by printing a simple L-shape that had two arms that were 10mm x 100mm, then measured those with a caliper, adjusted accordingly, and then reprinted. Bonus, I now have a small and simple square tool which I use for varying 'better than an eyeball' squaring activities/drawing.

https://eaabuilderslog.org/?blprojphoto&proj=7kZuzCPIH&e=7tCQuuDdH&p=7ysVHqGR6&listcat=&cat=Empennage&sid=
 
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Dimensional calibration

Jeremy,

I had done the dimensional calibration as part of the initial Voron build and saved the compensation needed to my slicer. I can't remember now what factor was needed to correct. Like with any of the templates in the plans, the first thing to do with the 3D printed templates would be to check everything printed to scale. The ABS didn't give me any more trouble than PLA has done in the past, both really should be calibrated to be safe. You talked about X and Y, but I have had to work hard to get Z right in the past since that can be affected by extrusion factor, bed leveling and adhesion, and first layer height.

I had made paper templates for the HS-1008 (https://vansairforce.net/community/showpost.php?p=1501100&postcount=16) and that's where I found the issue that friction will burn the templates, and you can't dunk the parts in water to cool them as you're working on it.

I'm away from my computer just now, but I'll PM you the files later. I'm hesitant to post them because if I made some error with dimensions from the plans, I don't want to patient zero for a whole bunch of screwed up tailcones. We have enough supply chain challenges without me adding a run on AA6 stock to go with it! :p
 
Tyson - Yeah, that initial calibration and subsequent dialing-in of the whole system was a doozy; I think I went through 2kg of filament in total between dialing in the printer motion system and then the variety of different filament colors I use with some regularity (but hey, totally worth it as my dimensional accuracy is awesome now and the prints are super smooth, except bridges - let's not talk about bridging and the pursuit of perfection there...)

Will certainly take you up on the PM offer, once I get to that step I can update you on the accuracy of the parts and (assuming they're good) give you the option of sharing with lowered fears of being the root cause of a lot of AA6 scrap-creation
 
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