Van's Air Force
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Gluing canopy
- Thread starter m20e
- Start date
rightrudder
Well Known Member
Search "Sikaflex canopy" and you'll find a ton of threads. It's a popular way to go.
Can you tell me what you use on the canopy for cleanup of 3m 5200 that won't attack the plastic?
RVRC
Well Known Member
we used Sika
We used Sika flex and I would do it again. Probably more work, but I love the finished product.
Bought my Sika from Jamestown Distributors.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do?engine=msn&keyword=james_distributing
You can see the finished product on today's front page. It is the blue and white RV7 near the bottom.
Also some pics on my build page. See below.
We used Sika flex and I would do it again. Probably more work, but I love the finished product.
Bought my Sika from Jamestown Distributors.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do?engine=msn&keyword=james_distributing
You can see the finished product on today's front page. It is the blue and white RV7 near the bottom.
Also some pics on my build page. See below.
I compiled a bunch of posts on attaching canopies with Sika many years ago and posted them to the Matronics Wiki: http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy
I hope this doesn't violate any policy regarding linking to other sites, but it's the only place i've seen a gathering of information on the topic of canopy gluing.
I hope this doesn't violate any policy regarding linking to other sites, but it's the only place i've seen a gathering of information on the topic of canopy gluing.
RV7Guy
Well Known Member
A couple of thoughts
Just finished my 7 Slider canopy with Sika. Here are a couple of thoughts.
1) You can get the Sika from Amazon.com. Do a search. The prices vary. Also check Chemical Concepts. They have it for the best price.
2) Do a search on eBay for the primer. You can find some smaller bottles available. These aren't commercially available. I believe they are about 2 ounces. One bottle is about perfect for the main frame on the slider. I'll use the other bottle for the front wind screen.
These bottles are perfect for our use. The large bottle is expensive and you'll only use a couple of ounces of it. Once it is open it is going to die quickly and most will be wasted. Please note, the bottles I bought were expired. I spoke with with a rep from Sika and asked about this. They said as long as they are liquid, they are fine. He said the expiration date is required for some DOT regs. I still have one in the refrigerator for the wind screen later down the road.
3) Use only 3M Fine line tape for the tape line. It is formulated to deal with various chemicals in the painting process. I know others are going to tell you they used electrical tape or something similar with good success just don't do it.
4) Do lots of checking on all your measurements. Clamp everything together as if you were going to glue. Again check and double check everything. If you are doing a Slider, use ratchet straps to compress the frame. Compress farther than you think. It is amazing how much outward tension the glass has.
5) Don't get too amped up over getting a specific sized spacers in. 1/16" spacers are plenty. On the roll bar, I had my max thickness spacers at the center and they tapered down to nothing at the sides. Think about it, if you use 1/8" spacers on the whole thing, the edges are going to be 1/4" over sized on the sides, (total). This is hard make up for in the structure and is not needed. This stuff is extremely aggressive so if properly prepped the Sika is going to hold. Along the side rails my slider I used some thin nylon washers as spacers coupled with the fillets on the second pass. It ain't going anywhere
6) If doing again, I'd buy a cheap airbrush and spray the primer for an even coverage. The primer does not brush well and requires several passes to fill in streaks. I used a soft brush. I didn't want to try a foam type brush as I was concerned about incompatibility with the primer.
7) When you do your tape line, tape farther than you think you'll need to give room to build your fillet on the second pass. I had one area where I didn't leave enough room and had to retape and reprime before adding my final beauty coat of Sika.
8) Use a cup with some denatured alcohol and your finger to make your smooth fillet. I tried a couple of nylon forms for the fillet but the Sika is too aggressive. A bare finger and alcohol works great. Keep your finger moist for the best results.
These are the most important things I can think of right now. The process is very simple and the only way I'd do a canopy. Seems like a lot of work but it actually is quite easy. There are many ways to accomplish the same result. I studied all the available builder sites that Sika'd. I developed my plan and it worked to perfection. I'm about as picky as one can get!!!
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions.
Just finished my 7 Slider canopy with Sika. Here are a couple of thoughts.
1) You can get the Sika from Amazon.com. Do a search. The prices vary. Also check Chemical Concepts. They have it for the best price.
2) Do a search on eBay for the primer. You can find some smaller bottles available. These aren't commercially available. I believe they are about 2 ounces. One bottle is about perfect for the main frame on the slider. I'll use the other bottle for the front wind screen.
These bottles are perfect for our use. The large bottle is expensive and you'll only use a couple of ounces of it. Once it is open it is going to die quickly and most will be wasted. Please note, the bottles I bought were expired. I spoke with with a rep from Sika and asked about this. They said as long as they are liquid, they are fine. He said the expiration date is required for some DOT regs. I still have one in the refrigerator for the wind screen later down the road.
3) Use only 3M Fine line tape for the tape line. It is formulated to deal with various chemicals in the painting process. I know others are going to tell you they used electrical tape or something similar with good success just don't do it.
4) Do lots of checking on all your measurements. Clamp everything together as if you were going to glue. Again check and double check everything. If you are doing a Slider, use ratchet straps to compress the frame. Compress farther than you think. It is amazing how much outward tension the glass has.
5) Don't get too amped up over getting a specific sized spacers in. 1/16" spacers are plenty. On the roll bar, I had my max thickness spacers at the center and they tapered down to nothing at the sides. Think about it, if you use 1/8" spacers on the whole thing, the edges are going to be 1/4" over sized on the sides, (total). This is hard make up for in the structure and is not needed. This stuff is extremely aggressive so if properly prepped the Sika is going to hold. Along the side rails my slider I used some thin nylon washers as spacers coupled with the fillets on the second pass. It ain't going anywhere
6) If doing again, I'd buy a cheap airbrush and spray the primer for an even coverage. The primer does not brush well and requires several passes to fill in streaks. I used a soft brush. I didn't want to try a foam type brush as I was concerned about incompatibility with the primer.
7) When you do your tape line, tape farther than you think you'll need to give room to build your fillet on the second pass. I had one area where I didn't leave enough room and had to retape and reprime before adding my final beauty coat of Sika.
8) Use a cup with some denatured alcohol and your finger to make your smooth fillet. I tried a couple of nylon forms for the fillet but the Sika is too aggressive. A bare finger and alcohol works great. Keep your finger moist for the best results.
These are the most important things I can think of right now. The process is very simple and the only way I'd do a canopy. Seems like a lot of work but it actually is quite easy. There are many ways to accomplish the same result. I studied all the available builder sites that Sika'd. I developed my plan and it worked to perfection. I'm about as picky as one can get!!!
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions.
petehowell
Well Known Member
Still a fan.....
My Sika'd RV-9A slider has now seen 10 years, 1400+ hours and temps from -10F to +115F.
It seems to be holding up just fine for me. Just follow the steps - Darwin has it down to a science!
My Sika'd RV-9A slider has now seen 10 years, 1400+ hours and temps from -10F to +115F.
It seems to be holding up just fine for me. Just follow the steps - Darwin has it down to a science!
Excellent advice. I sika'd my slider, and the only thing I'd add is to practice making nice fillets a bit of scrap. Mine did not come out as pretty as some I have seen, which just cost me more hours of sanding down and finishing them. Nice fillet looks fine as is. Don't paint over it, the paint won't dry.
Chris
Chris
BSwayze
Well Known Member
I'll add my experience to the list as well. I used Sika on my 7A tip-up, and I wouldn't do it any other way. There are so many advantages, I won't even try to list them all. It's an excellent product, a pleasure to work with, and the results look outstanding.
I have also been involved in helping at least 3 other builders with their canopies. Two of those were sliders, so I've now had quite a bit of experience. Darwin's tips are spot on. Feel free to check my website for much more detail, pictures, etc. starting here:
SikaFlex work, Tip-up Canopy
Here are a few pictures of how it turned out:
And here's the rear window:
I have also been involved in helping at least 3 other builders with their canopies. Two of those were sliders, so I've now had quite a bit of experience. Darwin's tips are spot on. Feel free to check my website for much more detail, pictures, etc. starting here:
SikaFlex work, Tip-up Canopy
Here are a few pictures of how it turned out:
And here's the rear window:
jj_jetmech
Well Known Member
Sika grocery list
Hi Bruce,
Thanks for all the detail, been disecting your blog and your experience over the last couple days... I just performed the Big Cut and need to order some sikaflex.
Can you please confirm the part numbers of the recommended cleaner, primer and adhesive? What is the approximate quantity needed for a 7 tip?
Thanks again great work
Hi Bruce,
Thanks for all the detail, been disecting your blog and your experience over the last couple days... I just performed the Big Cut and need to order some sikaflex.
Can you please confirm the part numbers of the recommended cleaner, primer and adhesive? What is the approximate quantity needed for a 7 tip?
Thanks again great work
MikeyDale
Well Known Member
I used it and liked it! Great tip about the smaller bottles of primer! I did the canopy then when I came back months later to do the windshield, the big 90.00 dollar bottle primer was dried out and useless. I like the black primer showing thru the canopy matching my black canopy frame.
