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RV8A Rear Rudder Pedal Retrofit

Majorpayne317641

Well Known Member
Has anyone done this? The only thing I see that cannot be done is nut plates on the underside of the top part of the 804 bulk head on eitherside of the pilot's seat. There are holes predrilled but the original builder did not install nut plates. How do you overcome this?
 
Has anyone done this? The only thing I see that cannot be done is nut plates on the underside of the top part of the 804 bulk head on eitherside of the pilot's seat. There are holes predrilled but the original builder did not install nut plates. How do you overcome this?

Lots of good threads on stock pedals and modified (much improved) pedals retrofits. Search the forum, or if you want some drawings, send me a PM with your email and I'll send you what I have.
 
Fitting Nutplate after Build

Depending on my nimble your are, you can reach the nutplates from the rear the spar carry through. You need to remove the control stick before you can reach the nutplates. Or you can temporarily remove the wings to reach this area but it is a much harder job. You can attach the nutplates with pull rivets instead of standard rivets and make the job much easier.

I have seen at least 2 RV8/A that didn't have these nutplates installed for the rear rudder pedals because the builders didn't want them. Perhaps this is more common than I thought.
 

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Bellcrank Issue

Has anyone done this? The only thing I see that cannot be done is nut plates on the underside of the top part of the 804 bulk head on either side of the pilot's seat. There are holes pre-drilled but the original builder did not install nut plates. How do you overcome this?

Be aware that you can not install fuel gauges on the stock side panel with rear rudder pedals. The left bell-crank will contact the electrical connection posts of the gauges. I simply modified the side console to fix this. I made a new, raised section where the gauges mount.

F-8113-L-modified-1.jpg
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This issue only pertains to the RV-8A.

Charlie
 
More Info Please

Has anyone done this? The only thing I see that cannot be done is nut plates on the underside of the top part of the 804 bulk head on either side of the pilot's seat. There are holes pre-drilled but the original builder did not install nut plates. How do you overcome this?

Are you referring to the vertical or horizontal sections of the F-804 assembly? Please refer to DWG 30A and reply with part number of where you think there is an issue. Sorry, I installed my rear rudder pedals during the build.

Charlie
 
Are you referring to the vertical or horizontal sections of the F-804 assembly? Please refer to DWG 30A and reply with part number of where you think there is an issue. Sorry, I installed my rear rudder pedals during the build.

Charlie

It is exactly where post #3 on this thread has circled. There are two nut plates under 804 on the horizontal surface that are for the securing of the rear rudder pedal bushing brackets.
 
Be aware that you can not install fuel gauges on the stock side panel with rear rudder pedals. The left bell-crank will contact the electrical connection posts of the gauges. I simply modified the side console to fix this. I made a new, raised section where the gauges mount.

F-8113-L-modified-1.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

This issue only pertains to the RV-8A.

Charlie

Charlie,

Do you remember if you had to reem out the hole in the push rod to fit the AN490-H6TP pushrod end? Maybe it is the powder coating that vans applies, but the pushrod end wont fit by hand. Was it a press fit? Thanks!
 
Be aware that you can not install fuel gauges on the stock side panel with rear rudder pedals. The left bell-crank will contact the electrical connection posts of the gauges. I simply modified the side console to fix this. I made a new, raised section where the gauges mount.

F-8113-L-modified-1.jpg
[/url][/IMG]

This issue only pertains to the RV-8A.

Charlie

I ran into a delay because the original builder routed a fuel line above the landing gear reinforcement tube. I am creating a plan to reroute the line under this structure to allow for the rudder pedal swing arm clearance.

I will have the same issue with the console cover. Do you have any sketches on how high you made your custom bezel? Thanks.
 

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Charlie,

Do you remember if you had to ream out the hole in the push rod to fit the AN490-H6TP push rod end? Maybe it is the powder coating that vans applies, but the push rod end wont fit by hand. Was it a press fit? Thanks!

I didn't have to ream out the ID of the push rod, but I can imagine it could happen if the powder coat guy goes nuts. It was a very snug fit, which is a good thing. Upon further review, I now remember that there was a burr on the ID of the tube, at the edge. I used a de-burring tool to remove it.

I also made a slight modification to the hardware to speed removal and installation of the rear pedals. No sense in having them in the aircraft if you don't have a pilot sitting behind you. I use AN-416 pins rather than cotter pins to secure the castle nuts. See photo.

AN-416-Quick-release-pins-for-rear-rudder-pedals-close-up.jpg
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In addition to the AN-416 pins, you will need to install 4 nut plates and screws for each of the two F-880CPP brackets that support the back of the push rods. That way, release the AN-416, remove the nut and bolt and the four screws for the F-880CPP rear mounting plate and you have quickly removed the rear rudder pedals.
 
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Where nut plates need to be added

Nutplate-Installation-to-allow-rapid-removal-of-rear-rudder-pedals-from-cockpit.jpg
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Rear-Rudder-Pedal-Assy-Rt-top-view.jpg
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Note the two 1/8" Clecos at the rear [at the left in 2nd photo] of the F-880CPP. You need to install #8 nut plates where those Clecos are.
 
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snipped Do you have any sketches on how high you made your custom bezel? Thanks.

Sorry, I don't have any sketches. I simply cut off the original, then made cardboard mock ups to see how high I needed it to be to have clearance. I think I raised it about 2 inches at the peak. After measuring, I only needed to raise it about 5/8". I also made it longer horizontally. See photos in later posts. You need to modify the F-8113B-L & R as well as the F-8113A-L.

Once I was satisfied, I made the parts in aluminum.

Remember, you will also need to allow for room for the wires going to those gauges.

Note that in the first photo I posted that you will need to modify both F-8113A-L & both F-8113Bs, so that the bell-cranks will not rub on them.
 
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More info about my modified left cabin console cover F-8113A-L

snipped
I will have the same issue with the console cover. Do you have any sketches on how high you made your custom bezel? Thanks.

I just measured that part. [F-8113B-L] It is 2 1/2" tall. I didn't have to raise it much, as only the outboard wiring terminal of the outboard fuel gauge touches the bellcrank arm, using the stock, 1 piece F-8113A-L. Refer to Dwg 24A

Photo to come, as soon as my phone finishes recharging.

Modified-F-8113-B-L-20220327-194655.jpg
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Modified-F-8113-B-L-20220327-194712.jpg
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Yesterday, I was rummaging around up in the loft of my shop. I stumbled upon the stock F-8113B pieces. The vertical measurement, similar to the [blurry] photo I posted of my modified piece is 1 7/8". So, I only needed to raise the pent roof up 5/8" to get the fuel gauges to clear the left bell-crank arm for the rear seat rudder pedals.

Original-F-8113-B-L-20220330-234757.jpg
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Original-F-8113-B-L-20220330-234837.jpg
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For anyone who is interested. I finally finished my retrofit. It was a lot of work. Trying to rivet the bell crank bracket to the longeron turned out to be next to impossible. I used structural cherry pop rivets instead. It did require a special small clearance 90 degree air tool drill to drill the holes right up against the wall. I learned that there were nut plates installed on the main spar. I was missing them on the seat triangle that I added with no issues. I ended up relocating the cabin heat Bowden cable the original builder placed on the left cover plate. I did have to reem the rudder push rod to fit the threaded insert prior to riveting.
 

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