The Terrifying Tale of FrankenSnorkel !

[Paul K]

Possibly, I set the rivets in wet epoxy and they get a good looking over at every oil change. I check the filter just because it is so easy to remove and that let's me see the rivets. I also check any contact points and so far, nothing.

For the future, fiberglass is also available in sock form and you really don't even need to use a sock. I was not going to paint it originally, liking the looks of carbon, but in retrospect would not use carbon again. It's hard to work with.

[scrollF4]

Originally Posted by Paul K

Scroll,

I created a new picasa page of all the photos I took building the custom snorkel. Made lots of mistakes and would do it differently if I did it over again but here they are:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1033987...eat=directlink

Paul,
I really do appreciate the album. As usual, photos help it all make sense. You would have justified leaving it unpainted.

[jarhead]

Originally Posted by scrollF4

You might be surprised at the ductwork in certified helicopters (not just light singles, either) that looks pretty much like your pics above... at 0.0 TSN... from the OEM.

[Bugsy]

Scroll
Is this some Holloween tale, just drill a hole in the front of the cowl like everyone else and skip all this nonsense.

[David-aviator]

Originally Posted by Bugsy

Scroll
Is this some Holloween tale, just drill a hole in the front of the cowl like everyone else and skip all this nonsense.

That's what I did with the 7 and FM200. The engine liked ram air, I could feel difference after take off when it was opened. But then I had a rinky-dink internal filter that could have been improved.

[scrollF4]

Originally Posted by Bugsy

Scroll
Is this some Holloween tale, just drill a hole in the front of the cowl like everyone else and skip all this nonsense.

Ok, educate me please: Is there a horizontal snorkel option for the horizontal induction IO-360? I agree that it would have been easier to build...

...but my other hangup involves that guppy-mouth intake hole under the prop spinner. I just don't like the look, but I really do love the clean cowling look without the center intake. That's one of several reasons why I chose the IO-360.

[SHIPCHIEF]

Your Frankensnorkle made up my mind, I did what Bugsy said.
I just drilled a big hole under the spinner yesterday.
I have a parallel valve IO-360 with Superior cold air sump and Airflow FM-150 injector.
I'm using a nifty tubular aluminum housing with a K&N cone filter inside. That's attached to the injector by a 3" X 4" adapter hose. I'm planning to mold a fiberglass fairing around it...

[Smilin' Jack]

Guess I was lucky, with my snorkel missed all the vital components. A lot of
moving and repositioning to make it fit. But with the Precision Throttle body it cleared everything.

Smilin Jack

[grubbat]

Why don't you make a large NACA opening like the Mooney and go straight in to the servo?

[SHIPCHIEF]

Grubbat,
To answer your question about an NACA duct, on my RV-8: I Trial fit a 7" long piece of 3" hose from the injector body inlet. The end of the inlet hose is mostly outside the slope of the cowl.
If you used an NACA duct, there would be very little to no room for an air filter.
I'm trying pieces from a Spectre universal remote air filter, here is a link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-9833/overview/
It has a cone shaped K&N filter inside. I'm ditching the short end and using a 4"x3" reducer hose to connect the wide end to a Flyboy Accessories fuel injector inlet adapter.
http://www.flyboyaccessories.com/Hom...sories-s/3.htm
The smaller inlet end sticks out into the airstream, a few inches behind the propeller.