Alternate Air Door Interference

I just finished the horizontal induction air scoop for our stock YIO-360-M1B, man what a pain! I had to hack it in half like many here have done. After glassing the two halves back together I went to mark where the alternate air door hole cutout will be and found it will interfere with the #2 cylinder oil return line (I think that is what that is..)
I had to cut our air scoop in half because it extended too far outboard from the valve cover and interfered with the Cyl 2 side baffle. Now that the filter is in line with the cowl inlet, it seems the air scoop is too far inboard and the alt air door will hit that oil line.



Looking for ideas please

I have the same engine and had to only make very minor modifications to the scope to work. My scope inlet (filter) is as far to the outboard as possible in such way that it is just enough for the baffle to fit just right and have enough room on the inboard side to mount a locking plate over the filter. So I suspect you will need to move it back outboard and the guide should be in relation to the inlet air ramp in the cowl.

my 2cents on the subject.

STAND-OFF OPTION

G'day Trevor,

Same engine, experience, & interference.

I used about an inch of aprox 3.5 inch (90mm) diameter PVC plumbing pipe to manufacture a stand-off for the standard aluminium door frame and closing cover mechanism. I glassed the pipe to the intake structure.

It has worked so far - maintenance checks only, not yet used in anger, fortunately.

Regards

Here's the starting page of my log on the matter in question.

Page 1, Alt Air

Just move it forward a bit and rotate the baseplate clockwise from your picture (compare to mine). That moves the pivot point such that the door will go down rather than rearward. Don't overdo it. If you get it right, the cable throw will still be good and you will get full opening of the bypass and plenty of clearance on the oil drain tube. Mine closes very well too, despite the warnings in the kit.

Just move it forward a bit and rotate the baseplate clockwise from your picture (compare to mine). That moves the pivot point such that the door will go down rather than rearward. Don't overdo it. If you get it right, the cable throw will still be good and you will get full opening of the bypass and plenty of clearance on the oil drain tube. Mine closes very well too, despite the warnings in the kit.

Click to expand...

Thanks! That is a great idea. I will give it a try

same issue in our plane. we had to mod the snorkel slightly (also for the alternator) as well as notch the cover plate just a bit. no problems whatsoever.

snorkel mods:
http://www.flyvans.com/log/2009_02_26_baffling.html
and http://www.flyvans.com/log/2009_04_23_progress.html

Trevor,
It does not have to be all the way to the top of the snorkel. As long as you can set the flange on the fiberglass and have clearance, you'll be fine. All your doing is of course providing an alternate air supply. In this case one you can not try and reset in flight or on the ground during the run up. It is a one shot deal.
You will probably never use it unless your trying for "flight into Known Icing"

Jack

Not needed

I didn't install one.

I didnt install one either, could not see the point on a fuel injected engine.

Rather than sit back and think about it for awhile, I jumped the gun and asked the question here. Easy solution, rotate the flange clockwise until there is no interference with the door opening. Worked great!