Starter Wiring

[mike newall]

We have a Mattituck engine with a SkyTec starter. The Van's wiring print suggests removing the jumper between the main feed and a sub terminal and feeding this terminal from the starter solenoid.

I can't find a ref anywhere else and notice on Dan's site, the jumper is still in place, so do we remove the jumper or not ?

[Ironflight]

I don't recall removing the jumper...starter works just fine!

Paul

[dan]

It has to do with whether you use a separate starter solenoid or not. There should be a diagram or two on Sky-Tec's web site that shows the different options. Some people opt to use the solenoid integral to the starter instead of a separate starter solenoid. This removes a part from the equation but it means you have a fat, always-hot wire running to the starter. Some folks don't like that concept (myself included).

If you follow Van's FWF kit plans, you use a separate firewall-mounted (i.e. RV-7[A]) contactor. This keeps the wire running from it to the starter from being "always hot." The jumper basically hard-wires the starter's integral solenoid ON so that whenever current is supplied to the starter, the starter's solenoid kicks in.

Not sure if what I'm saying makes sense...it makes sense in my mind...whether my words are illustrating the concept, that's another story.

[tomwebster]

Originally Posted by dan

It has to do with whether you use a separate starter solenoid or not. There should be a diagram or two on Sky-Tec's web site that shows the different options. Some people opt to use the solenoid integral to the starter instead of a separate starter solenoid. This removes a part from the equation but it means you have a fat, always-hot wire running to the starter. Some folks don't like that concept (myself included).

If you follow Van's FWF kit plans, you use a separate firewall-mounted (i.e. RV-7[A]) contactor. This keeps the wire running from it to the starter from being "always hot." The jumper basically hard-wires the starter's integral solenoid ON so that whenever current is supplied to the starter, the starter's solenoid kicks in.

Not sure if what I'm saying makes sense...it makes sense in my mind...whether my words are illustrating the concept, that's another story.

From what I understand, Dan is correct, but there is a little more to it.
If you use the 'I' contact on the firewall mounted starter contactor
to energize the selenoid on the starter, you protect the starter from
'running-on' after the contactor is released. Some starters need this
protection, and have the jumper removed and a second wire from the
contactor 'I' contact to the starter selenoid.
I hope this doesn't muddy the waters too much.
Tom Webster (Flying as of last Saturday.)

[mike newall]

Dan,

That makes perfect sense, I saw a shot on your website with the jumper still in and that made me ask the question.

I will remove it and feed from the starter solenoid separately.

Thanks

Mike

[Davepar]

Now I'm getting confused. I looked at Skytec's web site and found this very helpful article:
http://www.skytecair.com/Wiring_diag.htm
(One minor confusing point is that diagram "A" is the bottom one.)

Basically if you're using a starter contactor on the firewall, use the jumper. If you're not using a starter contactor, take the jumper out. I already bought and installed the starter contactor, and agree with Dan that it's safer not to have that huge hot wire runnnig to the front of the engine.

Dave

[tomwebster]

I wondered why I removed the starter jumper and
some research found the following:

Van's drawing OP-10, (came with firewall forward kit),
has a revision dated Feb-2000 (R-3).
This revision replaces starter relay ES-24022 (3 terminal)
with ES-24021 (4-terminal). Drawing OP-10 also has a wiring diagram
labeled 'Optional light weight starter'.The old starter wiring with the jumper
is also still shown on drawing OP-10. A search shows the old
relay (ES-24022) isn't available anymore. The 'light weight starter
wiring' uses the fourth contact on the new starter relay and removes
the jumper at the starter. The reason for the change is the fact a
permanent magnet starter will not release when voltage is taken off
until it slows down a little, (about 1/2 to 1 second). Some starter
makers say this 'run-on' is normal and won't hurt anything,(SkyTec).
Van's went to some trouble to fix what they thought was a problem.
Both starter wiring schematics use a starter relay, the only difference
is how the solenoid on the starter gets power. The revision adds about
two feet of #18 wire.
I went with Van's fix. It might not matter.
Tom Webster

[cytoxin]

Originally Posted by dan

It has to do with whether you use a separate starter solenoid or not. .

no, vans still shows both solenoids installed.

Originally Posted by dan

This removes a part from the equation but it means you have a fat, always-hot wire running to the starter. Some folks don't like that concept (myself included). .

no, look again, the firewall relay energizes the large wire.the i terminal energizes the started mounted solenoid.
now i'll do some guessing and say that this prevents some run on as noted by tom webster.

[PJSeipel]

Make sure you check which model of starter you have and follow SkyTec's wiring diagram. SkyTec re-purposed one of the terminals on the NL models and removing the jumper changes the starter voltage to 24v.

PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032

[cytoxin]

thanks, now im even more confused than this morning back to sky tec's website