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Lightbulb engine pre-heater?

s10sakota

s10sakota

Well Known Member
I want to be able to pre-heat my engine for winter ops.

I'm looking at installing the Reiff cylinder bands and oil pan heater at a cost of $435.

I've heard about people placing a protected 100W light bulb in the engine compartment to pre-heat the engine. Maybe it's even left on all the time?

Has anyone used the light bulb method before? Does it work?

Note: this installation will be on my Piper Cherokee so I can't use the "non-aviation lower priced stick-on heater pad alternatives!"
 
I've heard of folks using the 100W bulb method, and yes, it requires being on all the time. The intakes need to be plugged to accumulate any warmth in the cowl area.
As a very happy Reiff user, I recommend you spend the big bucks and go that route. You'll never regret it. Coupled with a Switchbox, it removes a major impediment - perhaps THE major impediment - to winter flying.
 
swtichbox

Light bulbs are pretty anemic. Reiff or Tannis or an oil pan heater are going to put concentrated heat where you need it.
Last year I left my oil pan heater on all the time... but did see some moisture collecting at the top of the engine. I use Camguard... but changed habits this year. Bought the switchbox while on sale... just the simple unit.
Now, I walk over to the iphone while up for a pee in the night... and turn on the oil pan heat. At morning coffee, I push the other button and a space heater comes on in the cockpit. Arriving at the hangar, outside air temp around 25 and the RV is eager and ready to fly. The engine sounds entirely different (O320) for the first ten minutes than a cold start.
 
One nice use for the Reiff-type sump heater is that it only takes a short time to warm the oil up when you want to change it. Just plug it in and when the oil picked up by the dipstick is warm, shut the heater off and drain the oil.

Works a charm.

Dave
 
Light bulbs work great.

I used 2x75-100w bulbs during my short time in New England two years ago. I put two moving (purchased from local Uhaul storage facility) blankets over the cowling, put intake plugs in and dropped the lights down the oil door, leaving them on the whole time. I would always arrive to the hangar with cylinders above 80deg and Oil temps above 100 on first start.

The system was very easy, very economical. Two 'drop lights' from home depot, $12. And I used 3 bulbs over the 5-6mo winter season ~$5.

I was only in New England for a year and knew that I would be coming back to the west coast, so an investment in a more permanent system did not make sense economically. However, if I were to live a cold environment longer, I think it is a sound investment. Then you get into the discussion of leaving those systems on all the time or just using remote switches to warm it up when you intend to fly. Condensation is the foe and the only real cure is to 'FLY MORE!':D

YMMV

Dan
 
I am using a $150 EZ-Heat sump heater from Aircraft Spruce. Did an EAA Tech Counselor visit to an RV-9A project this week. At the project, I learned about Wolverine Heaters that are used on Farm and Utility equipment. The builder recommended the Model 16 in 120V for use on our RV aircraft. The builder has built several other amateur built aircraft. I am not sure but I think my EZ-Heater is 300 W. The 250 W Model 16 would be a close replacement for 1/2 the cost.

Maybe others may have a source of similar heaters for our Experimental RV sumps. The light bulb would be less expensive but some of us like a more refined solution.
 
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I have used two 75 watt light bulb method with blankets for about 20 years on aircraft in unheated hangars. Have checked ambient temps and temps under the cowl and typically see a 20 to 25 deree rise over ambient. This covers me for most of my flying. Since it is the entire under cowl area, the entire engine is at or about that temp which I think may be better than just the pad heater. The bulbs do burn out and that results in a colder engine than desired.

That said, I just ordered two-75 watt heat pads to put on a heat sink and place under cowl in place of the bulbs. The only cost $50 for the 2. I will be experimenting with the heat sinks and ambient temps and might report results when done, if winter isn't over first.
 
If you can snag it away from the Mrs. without causing a domestic incident, take a hair dryer on high stuck in the inlet cowl, then plug up the inlets. Leave alone for about 15 minutes. Hey, if it can preheat a 310hp Connie on the Cirrus I rent, it can work for our RVs. :D Don't even need the blanket on top the cowl, though that certainly doesn't hurt.
 
RVDan said:
Have checked ambient temps and temps under the cowl and typically see a 20 to 25 deree rise over ambient.
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I can confirm these numbers. Each 75 watt bulb I put in the cowl increased my engine temperature by about 15F. Thus, I can count on two bulbs warming everything up by 25-30F above ambient. This is more than adequate for any but the coldest of days.

The additional upside to this method: it warms up everything, not just one or two places on the engine. The downside: it does take a bit longer, though contrary to what someone mentioned above, it most definitely does not need to be left on all the time. I generally need a few hours to get it warmed up 30F, less time if I don't need it warmed up that much. That said, nothing that a remote switchbox doesn't address.
 
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I use a pair of pad heaters from this company on my rv but since this is on a certified bird: can you reach the bottom of the engine to stick a magnetic heater like this on? This would be more heat and seems safer to me than a lightbulb + it would be connected to what you're wanting to heat vs. just heating the air.

http://smile.amazon.com/Kats-1153-H...7721425&sr=8-1&keywords=magnetic+block+heater

they also have a 300 watt unit for a little more that would obviously be even quicker
 
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alpinelakespilot2000 said:
The downside: it does take a bit longer, though contrary to what someone mentioned above, it most definitely does not need to be left on all the time. I generally need a few hours to get it warmed up 30F, less time if I don't need it warmed up that much. That said, nothing that a remote switchbox doesn't address.
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I'm not sure anyone was saying it needed to be left on full time, but the OP was looking for economical solutions, therefore rules out a switch box or similar. Unless the OP lives with his plane and can walk out and plug it in when he wants to fly, then leaving it on full time is the answer.
 
s10sakota said:
I want to be able to pre-heat my engine for winter ops.

I'm looking at installing the Reiff cylinder bands and oil pan heater at a cost of $435.

I've heard about people placing a protected 100W light bulb in the engine compartment to pre-heat the engine. Maybe it's even left on all the time?

Has anyone used the light bulb method before? Does it work?

Note: this installation will be on my Piper Cherokee so I can't use the "non-aviation lower priced stick-on heater pad alternatives!"
Click to expand...

... If you are looking for an economical solution to this problem that addresses every aspect stated, here it is. Go to this provided link and purchase one of these. They are available in several wattages from 50 to 500, they are temperature adjustable to about 100 degrees F. and are almost free, ($7.00 or so). They are available in many different lengths, are made of indestructible stainless steel, are very reliable and last virtually for ever. To use, just open the oil door, remove the oil dipstick, insert heater in place of dipstick down the tube submerging it in the oil, plug it in, set it and forget it. If the outside temperature drops it can be easily turned up to accommodate it. You can also enhance this package with a very inexpensive, digital, seven day programmable controller to turn it on and off at any schedule you so desire. The complete package for less than $25 bucks. I have used these many many times over the years and they are hard to beat. If this said AIRPLANE on it somewhere it would cost $500 or more. Wow! I should put a sticker on them and start selling them for $450. Thanks, Allan...:D
SEE LINKS; **removed**
SEARCH; Submersible Water Stainless Steel Heater Heating Rod for Aquarium Fish Tank
SEARCH; 12-24-Hours-7-Days-Minute-Programmable-Digital-Timer-Socket-Outlet-Switch-Plug
 
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Combination

I use a 60 watt bulb in the oil door, sump heater not sure of the watts.
2 teardrop shaped 40 watt bulbs up the exhaust pipes.
Shipping blanket over the cowl with the corners stuffed in
The front cowl vents. I have the system on a timer. Would be
Better with a cell switch. It's very warm under the cowl when I shut it all down.
I'm guessing 70-80 after only a few hours.
 
I've been using a 100 watt bulb in a utility light and a good blanket for OAT's down in the high teens for years - just leave it plugged in overnight, and I see 65-75 degree oil on start-up. As mentioned, it warms the whole engine compartment, not just oil. Takes less than a minute to set it up the night before I want to fly - I've got two of three airplanes set up that way right now, tonight...because I MIGHT fly in the morning, and don't know which airplane. Yes, it costs a few pennies of electricity to just leave them on - but the hardware costs almost nothing, and it is just dirt simple.

If I was still living in Minnesota? Probably not going to be adequate....
 
Neal@F14 said:
I've seen a 100w drop light cause a heat bubble in a fiberglass lower cowl of an RV. Ouch.
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I put mine up through the cowl exit and hang it on a carb fitting or cable to keep it from resting on the cowl. Just common sense.
 
I used to use a small 1500w forced air utility heater ($30) with a length of dryer hose (or scat tubing) taped onto the outlet and run up into the outlet opening on the underside of the cowl, and another length run from one of the front cooling inlets back into the intake side of the heater. The other cooling inlet plugged with foam. With this little system recirculating the heat it would warm my engine up to where the oil temp would be 80 degrees on startup in a couple of hours in any temps I could make myself fly in (down to about -20c, or below zero f) I used a phone activated switch much like the Switchbox system to turn it on from home; roll over in bed, send the text, roll back over for a few more z's, get up and have coffee, and by the time I got to the hangar she was good to go.

I say "used to" use this system, because my hangar is now heated and insulated, and my plane is always at a nice 50f no matter when I show up. Luxury.

One word of caution; keep the heater off the ground - there have been instances of fuel leaks resulting in fumes on the floor being ignited by heaters like this. I always kept it on a platform about 2' up just to be safe.
 
For those of you using light bulbs - a word of advice. Buy a stash now! Stores in my part of the country are no longer stocking high wattage incandescent bulbs (over 40w). I recently bought a couple cases because I have the way cfl and led bulbs light the house. Seems that our beloved governmental leaders are phasing out good inexpensive light in favor of highly expensive (but more efficient), asylum lighting (or so says my wife).
 
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