VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.


Go Back   VAF Forums > Main > RV General Discussion/News
Register FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #101  
Old 04-21-2020, 06:32 PM
Steve Melton's Avatar
Steve Melton Steve Melton is online now
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,035
Default

we were printing 500 per day for several days. I have 100 remaining if anyone wants them. send me a message.
__________________
Steve Melton
Cincinnati, OH
RV-9A, Tip-up, Superior O-320, roller lifters, 160HP, WW 200RV, dual impulse slick mags, oil pressure = 65 psi, EGT = 1300F, flight hours = 800+ for all

Simplicity is the art in design.
I was born an airplane nut. I have no explanation for it.
My Artwork is freely given and published and cannot be patented.
www.rvplasticparts.com
Reply With Quote
  #102  
Old 04-22-2020, 07:19 AM
BobbyLucas's Avatar
BobbyLucas BobbyLucas is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by philip_g View Post
It's some kind of carbon glass, with a slight dimple to it for adhesion. I'm running the extruder at 200 to 210 with a volcano nozzle and pla. I normally (for the whole 24 hours I've had it) don't use anything for adhesion, on larger stuff it adheres so well it's hard to remove the part sometimes. I'll adjust the multiplier, thanks for the tip
Below is an example of a max-adhesion first layer (left) and a poor-adhesion one (right). All I did was change the z-offset from the bed to the nozzle. A word of caution - if you go too close to the bed you can force molten plastic up into the cooler parts of your hotend and create a jam; see the lower right corner of the left hand print outline.

__________________
Bobby Steinmetz
Van Buren TWP, MI
Student Pilot, Mechanical Engineer
RV-12iS Empennage, Fuse, & Finish Kits #121228
N781PT Reserved
Donated 2020 (twice)
Reply With Quote
  #103  
Old 04-22-2020, 09:26 AM
DaleB's Avatar
DaleB DaleB is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,280
Default

I print on a PEI sheet stuck down to the aluminum bed. I have found that it warps enough to really raise havoc with printing, so I loaded the newer Marlin firmware to do auto bed leveling. Works like a champ. I had a heck of a time after switching to PETG filament. I love the strength and all, but I did have to slow the printer waaaaay down. I can print PLA at 60 mm/sec, but the PETG demands about 42mm/sec (70% speed). I tried 75% and got a ruined batch. I get globs of material that the nozzle or the bed leveling sensor hit, and mayhem ensues.

I was finishing a batch of 8 bands in about 1:12 printing PLA; now it's taking about 2 hours. I'd switch back to PLA, but Amazon is mostly out of it. I may try ABS just to see how they turn out. At least I'm back in production now!
__________________
Dale

Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #104  
Old 04-22-2020, 09:51 AM
BobbyLucas's Avatar
BobbyLucas BobbyLucas is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
I print on a PEI sheet stuck down to the aluminum bed. I have found that it warps enough to really raise havoc with printing, so I loaded the newer Marlin firmware to do auto bed leveling. Works like a champ. I had a heck of a time after switching to PETG filament. I love the strength and all, but I did have to slow the printer waaaaay down. I can print PLA at 60 mm/sec, but the PETG demands about 42mm/sec (70% speed). I tried 75% and got a ruined batch. I get globs of material that the nozzle or the bed leveling sensor hit, and mayhem ensues.

I was finishing a batch of 8 bands in about 1:12 printing PLA; now it's taking about 2 hours. I'd switch back to PLA, but Amazon is mostly out of it. I may try ABS just to see how they turn out. At least I'm back in production now!
I have some BuildTak PEI sheets coming for my flexplate system, so hopefully I can finally use my PETG. I've had some success before, but PLA is way easier imo. I've been able to find PLA on Amazon, just ordered two rolls the other day, showing up this Friday. Hatchbox has been out, but found some eSun, Overture, and Duramic. Those last two come with their own build sheets, so that's pretty cool.

What Marlin version are you using? I had a terrible time with the mesh bed-leveling feature. Had to go back and tweak every point and it's still not perfect. v1.9 I think? I hate major firmware updates and having to start from scratch with all my tweaks.
__________________
Bobby Steinmetz
Van Buren TWP, MI
Student Pilot, Mechanical Engineer
RV-12iS Empennage, Fuse, & Finish Kits #121228
N781PT Reserved
Donated 2020 (twice)
Reply With Quote
  #105  
Old 04-22-2020, 10:03 AM
Lionclaw's Avatar
Lionclaw Lionclaw is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Melbourne, FL (X21)
Posts: 669
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyLucas View Post
I have some BuildTak PEI sheets coming for my flexplate system, so hopefully I can finally use my PETG. I've had some success before, but PLA is way easier imo. I've been able to find PLA on Amazon, just ordered two rolls the other day, showing up this Friday. Hatchbox has been out, but found some eSun, Overture, and Duramic. Those last two come with their own build sheets, so that's pretty cool.

What Marlin version are you using? I had a terrible time with the mesh bed-leveling feature. Had to go back and tweak every point and it's still not perfect. v1.9 I think? I hate major firmware updates and having to start from scratch with all my tweaks.
I can't speak highly enough of PEI for ABS, PLA, and PETG. My first printer came with something that looked like Buildtak and it was useless for all but PLA. Now I'm running 1 heavily modified d-bot and 4 Vorons all on PEI. If you're going with a new firmware, you should check out Klipper. You can run it alongside Octopi on a Raspberry Pi. The config file is on the Pi, making it much easier to do config changes without re-building Marlin each time.
__________________
Andy Compton, PhD EE
RV-10 #41414, N643AC (building)
RV-7A #72158, N808PA (flying)
RV-9A #91638 (built,flying,sold,missed)
My blood and sweat, the Wifey's tears
Reply With Quote
  #106  
Old 04-22-2020, 10:10 AM
DaleB's Avatar
DaleB DaleB is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
Posts: 2,280
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyLucas View Post
What Marlin version are you using? I had a terrible time with the mesh bed-leveling feature. Had to go back and tweak every point and it's still not perfect. v1.9 I think? I hate major firmware updates and having to start from scratch with all my tweaks.
Marlin 1.1.9 here. I have an Anycubic i3 Mega... it's got an inductive sensor. Once I got the Z offset figured out it works great. Here's what I did:

1.) Preheat the bed and level it the old fashioned way, at each corner, a couple of times until it's as close to perfect as you can get it.
2.) Raise the carriage a few mm until the sensor is not active.
3.) Step the carriage down using the smallest steps you can until the sensor triggers. Read the Z position ; there's your Z offset.

I had to play around with that for a couple of hours. Set the offset, print a single layer, peel it up and measure it with a caliper until I got it to exactly 0.3mm. After that it was on to PID auto-tuning and then smooth sailing, right into the rocks (meaning, the big globs of rock hard PETG all over the place).

For additional fun, I changed not only the firmware but went from the supplied hotend to an E3D V6, which is quite a bit shorter and required changing pretty much everything. But, at least it's not jamming, and the temperature stays very very close to where I set it.

But it's fun, right?
__________________
Dale

Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
Fisher Celebrity (under construction)
Previous RV-7 project (sold)
Reply With Quote
  #107  
Old 04-22-2020, 10:19 AM
BobbyLucas's Avatar
BobbyLucas BobbyLucas is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Belleville, MI
Posts: 272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
Marlin 1.1.9 here. I have an Anycubic i3 Mega... it's got an inductive sensor. Once I got the Z offset figured out it works great. Here's what I did:

1.) Preheat the bed and level it the old fashioned way, at each corner, a couple of times until it's as close to perfect as you can get it.
2.) Raise the carriage a few mm until the sensor is not active.
3.) Step the carriage down using the smallest steps you can until the sensor triggers. Read the Z position ; there's your Z offset.

I had to play around with that for a couple of hours. Set the offset, print a single layer, peel it up and measure it with a caliper until I got it to exactly 0.3mm. After that it was on to PID auto-tuning and then smooth sailing, right into the rocks (meaning, the big globs of rock hard PETG all over the place).

For additional fun, I changed not only the firmware but went from the supplied hotend to an E3D V6, which is quite a bit shorter and required changing pretty much everything. But, at least it's not jamming, and the temperature stays very very close to where I set it.

But it's fun, right?
I don't worry about the accuracy of the first layer thickness, I just adjust the Z offset in my slicer (Simplify3D) until I like what I see for squeeze-out and adhesion. My bed-leveling issues are of a higher-order due to very slight curvatures in the bed and x-axis I assume, hence the mesh bed-leveling. I also have an inductive probe which is very nice.

The E3D V6 has treated me pretty well I think.

Yeah, it's fun, to a point. Lol
__________________
Bobby Steinmetz
Van Buren TWP, MI
Student Pilot, Mechanical Engineer
RV-12iS Empennage, Fuse, & Finish Kits #121228
N781PT Reserved
Donated 2020 (twice)
Reply With Quote
  #108  
Old 04-22-2020, 03:35 PM
philip_g philip_g is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Oahu
Posts: 188
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AX-O View Post
Was having the same issues. I slowed the first layer down to 60% print speed. That took care of it. Now the prints are perfect.
this solved it! thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #109  
Old 04-22-2020, 11:54 PM
AX-O's Avatar
AX-O AX-O is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 2,484
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by philip_g View Post
this solved it! thanks!
Sometimes the simplest solutions work just fine.
__________________
Axel
RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
VAF 2020 paid VAF 704
The information that I post is just that; information and my own personal experiences. You need to weight out the pros and cons and make up your own mind/decisions. The pictures posted may not show the final stage or configuration. Build at your own risk.
Reply With Quote
  #110  
Old 04-23-2020, 05:41 AM
philip_g philip_g is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Oahu
Posts: 188
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AX-O View Post
Sometimes the simplest solutions work just fine.
I'm going to try some in PETG, that'll end spectacularly bad I'm guessing. I did a temp tower in PETG and there's basically no difference in print quality from 220-250

it's really frustrating that some projects print easily and beautifully and some I have to wrestle with for hours to get them done.

If anyone else needs some I'm printing away and can mail them out. I'm slow, it takes me about 4 hours to print 8.

Last edited by philip_g : 04-23-2020 at 07:58 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:56 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.