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  #11  
Old 09-23-2021, 03:06 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,955
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A couple of the jigs I made to help with canopy frame tweaking:

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The round pieces were pulleys from a modified band saw that I inherited. I rebuilt the band saw with new appropriately sized pulleys to bring down the speed to what I wanted. They worked perfectly to help get that frame into a shape that I could live with. From an entry/exit, operational, and appearance standpoint I prefer a sliding canopy, but it is a challenge to build.
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SH
RV6/2001 built/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
RV4/bought 2019 Flying
RV6/Used kit purchased 2021 building
Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2021
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  #12  
Old 09-28-2021, 01:25 AM
JurgenRoeland JurgenRoeland is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Belgium, Geraardsbergen
Posts: 132
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I also used that kind of bending setup when I adjusted the frame and spend 2 months getting it better. At some point I gave up and went with the best I could get. I drilled the canopy frame in place some time ago so that part is locked in.

I also drilled the rollers now so the height is defined. Due the form of the roll bar, the windscreen sits slightly higher at the top. From the 11 to 1 o clock position, it's even and from the bend on downwards, the canopy frame is wider so I can use washer shims there. Only the top is higher and that's impossible to solve. I'll adjust the fairing there by puttin an extra bed of epoxy to fill the gap.
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