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  #1  
Old 03-08-2011, 04:19 PM
LettersFromFlyoverCountry's Avatar
LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Location: St. Paul, MN.
Posts: 4,821
Default Toggle switch - ignition wiring

All of the plans I've seen for the RV electrical systems involve the keyed ignition switch and, of course, two mags.

I'm not doing things that way. I'm using regular old toggle switches -- one for the left mag, and one for Lightspeed and I'd like to find a schematic somewhere (Aerolectric Connection has one but it involves a double throw switch) that shows exactly how these should be wired.

I really don't want to screw this part up.

Any help would be appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 03-08-2011, 04:31 PM
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DakotaHawk DakotaHawk is offline
 
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Location: Arlington, WA
Posts: 800
Default What's the purpose?

Bob,

What do you want your ignition switches to do?

For example, if you want to use simple single pole single throw SPST toggle switches, then just route 14V+ through one switch to the LS ignition, and route ground through the other switch.

On the other hand, if you want to make sure that the engine will only start with just the LSE, then you need to have DPST switches to get the logic worked out. My LSE/Mag is set up with the DPST switches. The starter contactor will only engage if the LSE is ON and the Mag is OFF.
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Scott "Grumpy" Stewart
RV-7 N957RV (First Flight on Dec 18, 2009)
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#866 on the Van's RV-7 hobbs
#6563 on Van's generic hobbs
Arlington, WA
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  #3  
Old 03-08-2011, 04:56 PM
hobby_rv6 hobby_rv6 is offline
 
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Location: Abilene, TX
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Default

Bob,
You are doing exactly what I did. I used three NO-NC toggle switches in a row, just to the right of my keyed master switch (which is only an off/on switch). The toggle switch closest to the master switch is the alternator field switch, next is the p lead on the magneto and the last one is for the 12v lead to the electronic ignition controller module (I used an Electroair unit).
Lastly, I used a momentary push button switch to engage the starter solenoid. My original design used the button type switch with a ring around it to protect against an inadvertent push, but I didn't like the way that it looked. I ended up with a switch like this





This momentary switch is a "security" kind normally used on vending machines which mounts flush with the surface and cannot be accidentally bumped. I found it at a local electric supply shop for about $5.

Hobby
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  #4  
Old 03-08-2011, 08:22 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Default

Basically, I want to see a schematic so I can understand the principles of how they work and how the switching is best accomplished between the mag and the EI. BTW, didn't I read something somewhere that the engine is best started on the mag and the EI is brought online after engine start?
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  #5  
Old 03-08-2011, 08:42 PM
szicree szicree is offline
 
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Location: SoCal
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Default

I had one mag and a lightspeed wired with toggles. The diagram is in something called Express PCB (I think). I'd be happy to email you a copy of my diagram, but I think you'll need the software to view it. It was a free download though.
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  #6  
Old 03-08-2011, 08:50 PM
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RV10Rob RV10Rob is offline
 
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Default Start on the EI

One of the benefits of the EI is easy starts. I know some people with a mag + lightspeed start on the mag only, but I have no idea why. I have a Plasma III and impulse coupled mag, so I start on both.

As for the wiring, for the mag, you attach one end of the switch to the p-lead and the other end of the switch to ground. For the mag, the switch is mounted "upside down"; that is, when the switch is "up" it's actually open, which for most things would mean off. When the mag is "off" (disabled), the switch is closed, which grounds the p-lead.

The Light Speed is straightforward. One end goes to the lightspeed power (connected directly to your battery) and the other end to the controller box. The Light Speed installation manual shows this, too.

-Rob
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Last edited by RV10Rob : 03-08-2011 at 08:53 PM.
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  #7  
Old 03-08-2011, 08:59 PM
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DakotaHawk DakotaHawk is offline
 
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Default diagram



Here's a quick and dirty diagram.

If your mag is impulse coupled, then you can start on either the LSE, the Mag, or both.

If your mag is not impulse coupled, then you must have the mag off to start.

Starts are always easier on the LSE because of the hotter spark that is optimized by the LSE circuitry for best start.
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RV-7 N957RV (First Flight on Dec 18, 2009)
RV-14 N144P (Empennage complete, wings almost complete, fuselage almost complete)
#866 on the Van's RV-7 hobbs
#6563 on Van's generic hobbs
Arlington, WA
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  #8  
Old 03-08-2011, 09:20 PM
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vmirv8bldr vmirv8bldr is offline
 
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Default

Bob, that depends on your mag and whether or not it is impulse coupled. Most people prefer to start on the EI. It fires a hotter spark for a longer duration which will aid in starting. I will attempt to upload a pic of the wiring schematic I made. It is based off of 'lectric Bob's schematic where the starter can only be engaged when the EI is on and the Mag is Off.

(EDIT: I corrected the drawing to show the correct switch)



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Last edited by vmirv8bldr : 03-08-2011 at 09:33 PM.
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  #9  
Old 03-09-2011, 07:50 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by hobby_rv6 View Post
...
I ended up with a switch like this


This momentary switch is a "security" kind normally used on vending machines which mounts flush with the surface and cannot be accidentally bumped. I found it at a local electric supply shop for about $5.

Hobby

Hobby, neat switch, what diameter is the thread?
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2011, 12:20 PM
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RV10Rob RV10Rob is offline
 
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Default

Interesting... I have the ground side of my mag switch wired to airframe ground near the firewall and the p-lead shield grounded at the mag case only (which is what Van's wiring diagram shows). What's the benefit of having the mag switch ground run through the shield and back to the mag case, as shown in the diagram from earlier in this thread?

-Rob
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