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Wire Rope Sling for Jack RV7A

Tcheairs

Well Known Member
I'm going to fabricate a jack stand to lift my RV7A on the strut where the main wheel attaches. I'm planning to use a double eylet 1/4" steel cable from Dayton with an advertised lifting strength of 1300#. Hopefully I'll have enough room (working around brake lines) to attach a heavy band clamp to prevent the cable from slipping up the strut when lifting.

Question is: has anyone used a 1/4" twisted steel cable in this manner and/or do you consider it to be strong enough for this job? Any suggestions or modifications?
 

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Vast majority of rv owners lift by the wing at tie tie down point. Use the search function here and you’ll find loads of post answering most questions on this topic and most anything else. Most call where wheels attach, “gear leg” vs strut. If new to RV’s I'd recommend not reinventing, but follow the thousands that came before you in some manner. Good luck sir.
 
Yes, it is a knockoff of the Handi Jack which I understand is no longer available.
I have observed my plane being lifted at the wing tiedown ring. The tripod hydraulic jack "rig" used made me very uncomfortable. The down ring was used to fit into the tripod jack (at risk of the wrong terminology) "receiver". Nor would the use of a hydraulic bottle jack on top of a wooden "funeral pyre" as per Vans suggested method allay my fears either, not to mention the non portability of this contraption.

I would like to have a jack stand which is portable and can be carried on x country trips. Might even be able to take along a small floor jack and a piece of plywood for grass strip issues.

Can anyone estimate the lifting weight of an RV7A for one main wheel off the ground? Thanks for the responses.
 
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Can anyone estimate the lifting weight of an RV7A for one main wheel off the ground? Thanks for the responses.

You can get a close approximation yourself by looking at your weight and balance documentation. It should show a weight value for each wheel on the airplane as weighed when empty. This was done with the airplane, sitting level versus its normal attitude on The ground but it will give you a close approximation, and you can then add a bit of extra for any fuel or other payload that’s in the airplane.
 
A properly constructed 1/4" cable is more than adequate to hold up one wheel of an RV-7, even with full fuel and your big dog sitting in the plane. You can get a quality 1/4" choker off the shelf from an industrial supply store, or probably even Amazon.

I remember seeing those wheel lifts for sale years ago, but then they stopped selling them. Not sure if there was a problem, or if someone just got out of the business. Seems like a good enough concept to me. The wing lift thing makes me kinda twitchy, too, as there have been several photos of when things go very, very badly. With that said, hundreds (possibly thousands) of people safely lift at the wing tie-down.

I use the kit that Avery sold a while back that has a weldment for a bottle jack that slips through the hollow axle using a modified axle nut. It's pretty simple, too. Aircraft Spruce still sells them for about $70. You'll need to modify both of the axle nuts, which takes maybe a couple hours work. Just another option to consider.
 
I would like to have a jack stand which is portable and can be carried on x country trips. Might even be able to take along a small floor jack and a piece of plywood for grass strip issues.

Can anyone estimate the lifting weight of an RV7A for one main wheel off the ground? Thanks for the responses.

I fabricated a pair of those tripod hydraulic wing jacks, although I've never needed them to lift both wings at the same time. I'm very confident of their security, especially if the other two wheels are chocked securely, and use them routinely in my hangar.. Having said that, they're not portable at all so I ultimately also installed the Flyboy Jackpoints which work just as well, appear to be just as secure, and fits easily into my pocket (except for the jack itself). A $20 / 8lb scissor jack is all that's needed.
 

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So With the Flyboy kit, which bolts do you remove to attach the kit? Anyone have a photo of the bolt up arrangement. Does it bolt to the brake capiher? Can't find an "in use" photo at Flyboy.
 
I think those jackpoints are made by Winter Motorsports and they sell them through Flyboy Accessories. Installation is pretty simple but you do need some kind of low profile jack. A cheap scissor jack is plenty. Readily available at Harbor Freight or Home Depot. The lift arm is detached so you have to remember to carry it with you.

http://www.wintermotorsports.com/jackpoints

http://www.wintermotorsports.com/round-gear-install-photos

https://flyboyaccessories.com/product-category/best-sellers/rv-jack-points

https://flyboyaccessories.com/wp-co...Round-Gear-Jackpoint-Installation-revised.pdf
 
for on-the-road repair, the aluminum Porsche/Audi scissor jacks weigh about 2.2 lb and can usually be found on ebay for round $60. there are lots of devices you can make or buy to attach them to the wheel or in case the wheel hub is too low or sunk in soft ground an attach point on the gear leg may also be required.
 
Jack points look like a great system, but from the photos I can't tell whether or not my brake lines would interfere with using them. The biggest problem is that I have jack the wheels up and remove them..but...I don't have a jack or access to one..So, I guess I'll have to go with the home made box stock stand and sell it later on Ebay..LOL

Thanks for all the pictures and links...
 
I'm going to fabricate a jack stand to lift my RV7A on the strut where the main wheel attaches. I'm planning to use a double eylet 1/4" steel cable from Dayton with an advertised lifting strength of 1300#. Hopefully I'll have enough room (working around brake lines) to attach a heavy band clamp to prevent the cable from slipping up the strut when lifting.

Question is: has anyone used a 1/4" twisted steel cable in this manner and/or do you consider it to be strong enough for this job? Any suggestions or modifications?

The photo is of my jack arrangement. I use 3/16" aircraft cable, it is rated at around 2000 lb. Since we are only picking up one wheel of an unoccupied RV the cable is more than strong enough. After the wheel is removed from the axle I lower the axle onto wood blocks while the wheel or brakes are being serviced.
 
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Thanks Sam, I'm going with your box stock angle design. I'm planning on using 1" box stock since I don't have 1 1/2" I plan to weld on a reinforcement at the weld. may increase the length of the "foot" for extra stabilithy. Would you happen to know the length of the 3rd side of the triangle (the distance from the jack point to the stabilized other end is? That way I can tell the angle of the assembly at the weld. I can see that it's not a 90 degree angle, and I'm not great at geometry..Guess I can take 2 yardsticks out to the hangar and come up with the distance between the leg ends.

Sent you a PM just now
 
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These photos are from an earlier thread. I don't have a number for the "third" side, this thing was built using an 'eyecrometer'..... ;)

That dimension/angle isn't critical.

RVjack-2.jpg

RVjack-3.jpg
 
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Try to look for 3/16 cable that is 7X19 (that is the strand count) it will be more flexible. 3/16" cable has a burst strength of 4200# single. You will be using it in basket configuration so that strength doubles to 8400#. You have a safe margin.

Plan your jack to lift with a flat tire, that will be about 3" lower and you will need to lift it 3" higher to install an inflated tire.
 
I think I can eyeball the angle but I'm concerned about the clearance of the skirt (pans) brackets. Brake lines also wrap around the gear truss. Guess I can always change the height of the long stabilized leg by using plywood pads depending on whether the tire is flat or inflated. Here are a couple of photos of my situation.
 

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Build a wood mockup to check clearances if you have concerns. There will be a lot variances between individual RV's due to brake line routing....just build to fit your plane. :)
 
Went out there with a couple of yardsticks, but that was quite clumsy. will get some 1/4" "round and experiment. Thanks Sam
 
Axle Lift Frame Using 3/16" Dyneema Rope Sling

DIY frame for lifting axles using a 3/16" Dyneema rope sling.

3/16" Dyneema rope has an average strength of 5400 lbs. Proper "eye" splices, and a double wrap around the axle, below the cross taper pin (unique to Rockets), and you have a suitable lifting point.

YMMV - But this works for me ...

HFS

I rotated the pic in my file, but it still comes out "sideways" here - sorry.

Almost forgot - I carry the Dyneema "sling" with me when I travel, so any kind of vertical lifting device (from above) - cherry picker or ?, can lift a flat tire.
 

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The Card Machine Works jack point is definitely a good solution. I have the Fly Boy jack points installed, and they work great too. I carry a spare Fly Boy arm with me in my fly away kit, but realize that in order to Jack the plane away from home, you’ll need to borrow a bottle/or scissors jack from someone. The Card unit, while taking more effort to turn that screw enough to get the wheel off the ground (possibly soft ground), it can be done with standard fly-away tool bag tools.
 
Im sure this has been discussed before, what's stopping you from removing the wheel nut, inserting a bar into gear leg, jacking up, wooden block. ?
 
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