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Use of commercial aluminum in panel

sjjonesnz

Well Known Member
Hi all, I'm looking to take the opportunity of tidying up some things on my panel when I do upgrade my transponder for ADSB (replacing my GTX327 with a GTX335)

0.063" 2024T3 alclad isn't cheap so I'm considering using a more readily available and so better priced commercial grade, say 5005.

Thoughts?
 
If you are going to replace the entire panel, then just order a new blank with bent flange from Van's.

If you are just patching unneeded areas of the panel, then use anything you want.
 
If you are going to replace the entire panel, then just order a new blank with bent flange from Van's.

If you are just patching unneeded areas of the panel, then use anything you want.

I've never been able to find anything when it comes to parts on that website, it's so frustrating :(

I use the search function. What do I need to search for to get a blank avionics panel for my RV8?
 
Source

There was a recent post on here, sorry can't seem to find it now, but someone redid his panel using the metal from a road sign. Don't know where or how he got the road sign though...;)
 
Hi all, I'm looking to take the opportunity of tidying up some things on my panel when I do upgrade my transponder for ADSB (replacing my GTX327 with a GTX335)

0.063" 2024T3 alclad isn't cheap so I'm considering using a more readily available and so better priced commercial grade, say 5005.

Thoughts?

Very good idea. It looks fantastic too. You can swirl 5005 and make it look really aesthetically pleasing. About the only downside - scratches, you can buff out the light ones, but the deeper ones are tough to deal with.

I had an old panel cutter that used a router to cut the holes. But what's out there today to cut panels like water jets are unbelievably accurate. But don't use a plasma cutter! Aluminum conducts heat too good and the edges end up jagged. If the material is thin enough you can use a 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench and an instrument hole "punch" - you'll be in for a workout for sure if you use manual tools. Other ideas are Carbon Fiber which is real nice too. It's really strong, looks good and is workable. It really makes the gauges "pop".

Lastly - don't forget about electronics. The standard round gauges have been around since the dawn of time, but fancy electronic displays are updated ever few months. There is nothing worse for me than to look inside a cockpit and see extra holes for a 3 year old GPS that is not the latest and greatest and the owner want's to upgrade, but the device is a different size. I put floats on a 1949 Cessna 170 today. The airplane had been restored and 0 timed 3 years ago. Only round holes - as it was new in 1949 - but all the gauges were new. It looked great.
 
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Go to that (very expensive) $10 USB drive you bought with the plans on it. Open the plans and scroll down to DWG 84 where the panel is shown. Note the part numbers. Go to the the parts webpage (https://shop.vansaircraft.com/public/parts.txt) and find the part numbers you want.

F-803A-1 INSTRUMENT PANEL $35.00
F-803APP INSTRUMENT PANEL $41.50
F-803B-L-1 INSTR.SUB-PANEL $15.10
F-803B-R-1 INSTR.SUB-PANEL $15.10
F-803BPP-L INSTRUMENT SUB PANEL $44.60
F-803BPP-R INSTRUMENT SUB PANEL $44.60
F-803C-1 INST.PNL.ATTACH FLNGE $12.60

Not hard. :rolleyes:

If I have the part number it's easy but if I'm not at my desk on my computer I can't find anything. I'm just used to websites where the search box works different, like Aircraft Spruce or any of those other aviation websites. Go to Van's and enter INSTRUMENT PANEL and it brings up a whole mess of things but not that part.
 
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There was a recent post on here, sorry can't seem to find it now, but someone redid his panel using the metal from a road sign. Don't know where or how he got the road sign though...;)

That's a great idea and I have a whole mess of new signs I bought at a city auction, thanks !!
 
I just ordered one and had Bill at Up North Aviation design and cut it for me. I was surprised in talking to Vans to learn that there are actually two different panels for the 8. Earlier airplane panels are slightly different than the later planes. Just be certain you're ordering the correct one. Vans used my kit serial number just to be sure I was getting the correct panel.
 
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I just ordered one and had Bill at Up North Aviation design and cut it for me. I was surprised in talking to Vans to learn that there are actually two different panels for the 8. Earlier airplane panels are slightly different than the later planes. Just be certain you're ordering the correct one. Vans used my kit serial number just to be sure I was getting the correct panel.

Good catch, yet another reason to call to place an order instead of using their website.
 
Hi all, I'm looking to take the opportunity of tidying up some things on my panel when I do upgrade my transponder for ADSB (replacing my GTX327 with a GTX335)

0.063" 2024T3 alclad isn't cheap so I'm considering using a more readily available and so better priced commercial grade, say 5005.

Thoughts?

I agree with fl-mike, 6061-T6 would be my second choice after 2024-T3. It's nearly as strong and machines/cuts well.

My experience with 5XXX alloys is that they are very "gummy" to cut or machine as well as being less strong. Whichever you choose, get a small sample and drill some holes, use a hole saw, file, etc. and make sure you're satisfied before buying an complete panel blank.
 
7000 Series

That's a great idea and I have a whole mess of new signs I bought at a city auction, thanks !!

Beware that most road signs are made from 7000 series aluminum, specifically 7075. You will not be able to bend it without cracking it unless it is annealed to -0 temper. Wonderfully strong stuff, but not easy to work with.
 
Beware that most road signs are made from 7000 series aluminum, specifically 7075. You will not be able to bend it without cracking it unless it is annealed to -0 temper. Wonderfully strong stuff, but not easy to work with.

Why would I need to bend it? Seems like mine is just a flat surface. I did notice a small bend on the bottom, I suppose to give it rigidity, but that wouldn't seem to be an issue with the sign since it's very rigid already. Then again I'm not a builder so there might be something I'm missing.
 
Why would I need to bend it? Seems like mine is just a flat surface. I did notice a small bend on the bottom, I suppose to give it rigidity, but that wouldn't seem to be an issue with the sign since it's very rigid already. Then again I'm not a builder so there might be something I'm missing.

If you have a stock panel, then there is a 90 degree bent lip on the bottom - that?s a pretty significant bend! It?s there to make the panel stiff. If you don't - then Someone has already been in the custom business on your bird....
 
don?t know about other models, but remember something stating the panel on the -4 as structural...
 
If you have a stock panel, then there is a 90 degree bent lip on the bottom - that’s a pretty significant bend! It’s there to make the panel stiff. If you don't - then Someone has already been in the custom business on your bird....

Yes, I mentioned the bend and stiffness so good to know we're on the same page and I'm learning here.
 
If you have a stock panel, then there is a 90 degree bent lip on the bottom - that?s a pretty significant bend! It?s there to make the panel stiff. If you don't - then Someone has already been in the custom business on your bird....

You can always rivet a piece of 3/4 X 3/4 X .063 angle to the bottom.
 
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