So, I decided to swap in the new engine mount standoff since I had the hoist out for the nose gear leg anyway. Figured it'd be a 2-3 job solo...yeah right. Removed right carb, Avionics bay cover, Coolant bracket, left air filter, oil lines, etc. Just to get access. Once there, getting old out not too bad. Getting new in was a royal pain for one bolt. I actually ended up removing the other 3 then put that one in first and rest followed nicely. But got it in and done. By the way, zero cracks on the old one.
My question is this: For the bolts/nuts that connect to the engine mount. How important is it that they're torqued identically? Both are within spec.
But the left one is a bit tighter (say 180 in/lbs) and the right one is probably closer to 170 in/lbs. This was to get castle nuts lined up. I could probably tighten the right one to be closer...but that dang carb is now back in the way. Or, I could loosen the left one... Or, I could just leave it and call it a day. Isolators on both sides are definitely sufficiently 'squished'.
My question is this: For the bolts/nuts that connect to the engine mount. How important is it that they're torqued identically? Both are within spec.
But the left one is a bit tighter (say 180 in/lbs) and the right one is probably closer to 170 in/lbs. This was to get castle nuts lined up. I could probably tighten the right one to be closer...but that dang carb is now back in the way. Or, I could loosen the left one... Or, I could just leave it and call it a day. Isolators on both sides are definitely sufficiently 'squished'.
