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Removable floors, nut plates between front seat floor and foot wells?

mill2978

mill2978

Well Known Member
I've decided to make my floor removable. For others that made their floors removable did you rivet the foot wells(F-829B) to the front seat floor(F-829A-1) or is there enough flex in the floor to get the whole assembly out?

Thanks
 
RV-8 floor

If you build per the plans (I did) the two foot wells and the small floor section riveted together are easily installed/removed but do require some flexing and are not just a drop-in. If they were riveted to the two large floor pieces farther aft they'd be impossible to remove (I think). I riveted the two main floor pieces (mid and aft cabin) down too early - before drilling for the flap stop/fairing! Rats. Much to my surprise it took less than 10 minutes to drill out the pop rivets and remove the floors. After doing drilling and install of the flap stops/fairings it took less than 10 minutes to put the floors back in and rivet them with an inexpensive HF pneumatic pop riveter. I believe doing the nut plate screw route would: a) take a lot of time, material and work; b) weigh more; c) take longer to remove and install than the pop rivets. Hopefully you'll get other opinions which will help you decide. In my case I found little under the floors I couldn't secure adequate access to from forward and aft openings.Good luck!
 
After thought

I too assembled the front floor pan/foot wells as per the drawings and it does take a bit of flexing to get it in and out. If you have painted interior you will have be extra careful not to scratch it. If I where doing it again I would attach at least one of the foot wells to the floor pan with screws and nut plates just to make it a bit easier...might even make this modification next time I remove the floor pan. food for thought.
 
Bill Dicus said:
If you build per the plans (I did) the two foot wells and the small floor section riveted together are easily installed/removed but do require some flexing and are not just a drop-in. If they were riveted to the two large floor pieces farther aft they'd be impossible to remove (I think). I riveted the two main floor pieces (mid and aft cabin) down too early - before drilling for the flap stop/fairing! Rats. Much to my surprise it took less than 10 minutes to drill out the pop rivets and remove the floors. After doing drilling and install of the flap stops/fairings it took less than 10 minutes to put the floors back in and rivet them with an inexpensive HF pneumatic pop riveter. I believe doing the nut plate screw route would: a) take a lot of time, material and work; b) weigh more; c) take longer to remove and install than the pop rivets. Hopefully you'll get other opinions which will help you decide. In my case I found little under the floors I couldn't secure adequate access to from forward and aft openings.Good luck!
Click to expand...


I've already done the work, added the weight, etc. It's just the foot wells to forward floor I'm wondering about, but if you can get them in and out I should be good. Thanks!
 
Mine is built per the plans and I'm thinking about doing the mod to make the rear sections removable as well. I'm starting to think about all the wiring and such that needs to be put in when I upgrade my panel, would make life a lot easier if they were removable.
 
Removable aft floor panels

Ok guys. Just a opinion from an early builder that has removed his floors for an autopilot upgrade. Do not deviate from the plans. Everything is just fine as designed. The rear floor panels can be easily removed in much less time than unscrewing all those steel screws. Just use your drill and a long 1/8 drill bit. If you install all the nut plates you will get more weight, more expense, wasted time, and a sore back with no real gain. There is a good chance that you will twist out the head of one of the screws and then you will be drilling out a steel screw instead of a soft aluminum rivet. The soft rivets can be drilled out in a matter of minutes. The only thing that slows you down is removing the rivet heads from your drill bit.
 
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I agree with Danny. I put rivets in mine and would do the same if I built another one. Drilling out a pop rivet is no a big deal.
 
RV-8 Floor Panels

When building my RV-8 and when it was in the canoe stage, I decided to put nut plates in for the whole floor, front and back. I wanted to get under the floor for whatever reason.......fluid spills, new wiring, components, etc. Happy I did. Easy to install components when I needed to.
 
I am reviving this old thread to ask new question.

Given the stock market is tanking, I can't cash out some of my stocks to get a Vans engine and prop so I decide I can use this extra wait time for the stock to recover to finish up my fuselage. With regard to installing the floor nutplates, do you install the nutplates in the all places call out for the LP4 pop rivets?

Thanks in advance.
 
Foot wells, my 2 cents

I built my RV8 per the plans originally. And yes with some gentle bending and twisting the forward panel can be removed for the condition inspection. It does however take some effort and the possibility of scratching is high. During my last inspection I modified the floor panels so that the foot wells are no longer riveted to the floor panel, the rivets were replaced with screws and nut plates. Installation and removal time is about the same as previously but the issue of scratching the interior or hanging up on the side panels is eliminated. Probably added about 1 ounce of weight to the plane. Personal preference on this one.
 
Food for thought,


I also wanted/planned to go the nutplate/removable floors way but thinking "what are chances??", I installed pulled rivets instead.


Guess what, I needed to pass a couple of extra wires under there even after careful planning of the electrical system.



Out with the drill, and it really took less than 20 minutes to remove.
I ordered a bunch of replacement rivets and will re-install the same way.
 
I just followed the directions and put pop rivets in and would do so again. A friend put plate nuts in and I've heard him say he wished he hadn't done the extra work. If I was going to put plate nuts in, however, I would look very closely at using Click Bond plate nuts so I could avoid all of the additional drilling. More money for sure, but if I just HAD to do it, that's the way I'd do it
 
Thanks for all the replies. I will probably go with the plan by using pop-rivet, and perhaps putting the nutplates only in the footwell area if I go that route.
 
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