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  #71  
Old 11-25-2015, 10:08 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
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stumbling onward. disaster... the day after the wheel pants dried and still in the booth I thought I should bake them so I turn the electric heaters on. after about an hour the pant next to the heater began to exhibit what I researched was solvent popping. turned the heaters off.

booth 80F
my painting method was primer, wait 30 minutes, then one medium coat Concept, wait 10 minutes, then second coat Concept. it was raining outside and 50F. this is the pant with solvent popping on one side that was next to the heaters.


this is another couple of pants that look OK, not next to the heat. But not as smooth as when first painted.




perhaps I didn't wait long enough between coats. I will try a some coupons to test before painting any more Concept. do not bake these parts 24 hrs after painting.

I removed the spray can self etching primer off the tips of the control surfaces with lacquer thinner because when I primed the overall I left one area at the tail, behind the rudder, in self-etching primer and it lifted. self-etching primer under this surface.




self etching primer washed off and new DPLF and K36 primer applied to tips. I also sanded the trailing edge of the elevator tips to a better looking edge. they were originally very thick.


First time to try DeKups for painting upside down. It works and I like it. note: the overall aircraft was primed with a loaned citation turbine sprayer that was nice but needed to be reconfigured for spraying upside down and had some drip problems. it was a bottom feed cup and holds a lot of paint so that was good. the DeKups reservoir is not as large.





James Bond light helmet. Even with the lighting the end is not in sight.

Last edited by A2022 : 11-26-2015 at 10:33 AM.
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  #72  
Old 11-28-2015, 07:52 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
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elevators

it was warmer yesterday and drizzle. I used DT885 reducer and changed from two coats to three coats, one mist coat, one medium coat and one heavy coat with significant wait times in between to purge solvents. it turned out OK but I feel I used more paint than with the two coat method. baked these parts at 65F overnight with electric heater set to low and pointed away from the parts.









today was cooler and pouring rain. those harbor freight fans do work in the rain. for the vertical stab and rudder I returned to the earlier method of DT870 and two medium coats with 15 minutes purge time to be sure the solvent had time to escape. I like this method better.

primer, the easiest paint to make look good, I am waiting about an hour before paint to be sure the solvents have time to escape. the book says 30 minutes but it's cool weather here but I do bring to booth temp up to ~75F.


paint





Last edited by A2022 : 11-28-2015 at 08:04 PM.
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  #73  
Old 11-28-2015, 07:56 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
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a good tip, mark the plastic measuring container


taped a sweat drip guard to the low point of the facemask


here's what happened, a sweat drop, the risk you take painting horizontal. I soaked the drop off with a small paper towel and recoated with primer and continued on. something to remind me of my painting adventures.


my alodine is not perfect cover, is it ever? no alumiprep, just dawn and scotch-brite pad. maybe that's why my alodine is not better.



Last edited by A2022 : 11-28-2015 at 08:41 PM.
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  #74  
Old 11-29-2015, 06:06 AM
Ron B. Ron B. is offline
 
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I use Alumniprep and I see no difference in the appearance.
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  #75  
Old 11-29-2015, 08:14 AM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Default Alodine process

Steve
How did you Alodine large surfaces? Brush? Spray?
How did you catch the runoff?
How did you rinse?
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I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #76  
Old 11-29-2015, 04:37 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
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how do you pour paint from a full can and not make a mess? use a homemade plastic funnel and punch 4 holes in the can to let the paint back in. a good tip from Bill Duffy. save the paint, it's expensive.




I gained another ounce by letting it drain completely


flap and aileron

primer, wait one hr then paint, the primer always looks good. I always thin it per the manual with acetone. flows really well and hides scratches. amazing stuff.


paint, 5C outside, DT870, preheat part to 80F, two coats with a little more on the top side, which is the downside in the booth. wait 15 minutes between coats to let the solvent escape. time between coats is the key. to much time and you need a lot of paint, to little time and the solvents don't have time to flash. booth was 75F when beginning the second coat and cooled to 70F by the end of the second coat. I gave the lower side of the flap a half dust coat at the end to see if I could flow it out. it was hanging more vertical than the aileron. it didn't seem to help much and left a satin finish. so my conclusion is that you don't want to do this. put it on wet. hopefully the satin finish will flow out somewhat overnight.

the candles are lit, time to paint!












satin finish, hopefully this will flow out. vertical surfaces are more difficult to flow out. need to time it just right and put it on wet. I will try to get a picture of this tomorrow to see if there is any improvement.


parts "baking" overnight at 65F

Last edited by A2022 : 11-29-2015 at 07:52 PM.
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  #77  
Old 11-29-2015, 04:54 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
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hangar overspray coupons look completely clean. these are four alum pieces painted black to pick up any overspray and placed around the hangar. I painted them a cardboard box so they have a lot of dirt but no overspray. I went next door to check on my neighbor and see if he smelled any paint. he said nope. I could not smell any paint in his hangar either. I was pleased about that.








DeKups are proving their worth. I have used this cup three times and just toss the left overs in the frig until the next use, then mix it with new for the next job. same with the urethane. save the paint! whoever thought of this did painters a good favor and allows one to paint upside down to boot!


Last edited by A2022 : 11-29-2015 at 07:50 PM.
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  #78  
Old 11-29-2015, 07:24 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wirejock View Post
Steve
How did you Alodine large surfaces? Brush? Spray?
How did you catch the runoff?
How did you rinse?
spray, rinse with water, you need to be quick to catch it or it will runoff...
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  #79  
Old 11-29-2015, 07:47 PM
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fl-mike fl-mike is offline
 
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Steve,
A couple things:
1. I found the best way to avoid solvent pop is to make sure the previous coat is "glove slick". i.e., spray a piece of cardboard near the end of your session. When you can slide your fingers over the test panel without sticking, you are good to go on the next coat. (the tech sheet probably refers to this)

2. The largest pump that comes in the West system pump kit screws right on a gallon solvent can and you can pump out solvent into your gun or cup or whatever. The pump is fine in the solvent. I've had one on my lacquer thinner can for years.

Good luck, it's a learning experience!
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  #80  
Old 11-29-2015, 08:16 PM
A2022 A2022 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl-mike View Post
Steve,
A couple things:
1. I found the best way to avoid solvent pop is to make sure the previous coat is "glove slick". i.e., spray a piece of cardboard near the end of your session. When you can slide your fingers over the test panel without sticking, you are good to go on the next coat. (the tech sheet probably refers to this)

2. The largest pump that comes in the West system pump kit screws right on a gallon solvent can and you can pump out solvent into your gun or cup or whatever. The pump is fine in the solvent. I've had one on my lacquer thinner can for years.

Good luck, it's a learning experience!
good tips, I think I have one of those unused pumps laying around. I'll put it to use. I'll try the cardboard. Question, does solvent escape faster/better with booth fans on or off?

Last edited by A2022 : 11-30-2015 at 02:46 PM.
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