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Old 02-03-2016, 04:58 PM
6 Gun 6 Gun is offline
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 846
Smile Fairing

When I laid up my faring I laid a bid of 9oz fiberglass around first then I laid 3 layers of carbon fiber over the roll bar then a couple more bids of fiberglass over that as needed after finishing of fairing I got two tubes of West Marine epoxy in the caulking tube that fits a caulking gun and filled the gap between the roll bar and the fairing on the inside underneath.Now you can pull or push on it or walk on it or jump up and down just for the fun of it.After that caulked around plex with 5200 and its holding up well.
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Old 02-03-2016, 06:31 PM
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Sheldon Sheldon is offline
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Concho, Arizona
Posts: 177

well Zilik, Guess no one wants to make one out of alum...? Oh Well.. Sheldon
Sheldon Barrett
RV6A 0-360 FP 750 hrs
Champ RV6 at LOE #3
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Old 02-04-2016, 06:23 PM
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whittfic whittfic is offline
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 132

Ron - The lay-up process is standard composite practice. I worked directly on the closed canopy, bridging all gaps with plastic packing tape. The main difference with what you see on the videos is that I left all aluminium and acrylic surfaces shiny smooth and applied wax and PVA to ensure that I could separate the newly made windscreen surround from the aircraft. Be sure to protect all surfaces that you don't want resin touching. Once it was layed-up I removed it and marked/trimmed to final shape (Mark 1 eyeball and tongue sticking out to one side to judge this!).

I then repositioned the trimmed part and clecoed in place (you can just see the holes in the photo and no, don't drill into the acrylic, just the aluminium). Filled, faired etc. and again removed for a final spray coat of Duratec. This is the layer that is finally sanded for painting and I found it was easier to do this part while at the bench.

Lot of dry fitting and sharpie marks to ensure correct positioning. I used a combination of cheap cargo straps, wedges of various shapes and sizes, and clecos through strips of angled aluminium to make sure everything was sitting properly. Make sure the prep work for the Sikaflex is done properly. I tend to get a bit carried away and use lots of fine-line masking tape to get a nice smooth bead at the joins.

Much as I would like to sell various bits and pieces to the Vans community, unfortunately I live on the wrong side of the Pacific Ocean. Freight costs kill it for me. I have already tried with the plenum but it was just getting too expensive. I even tried giving away the pattern for the plenum, hoping someone in the USA would take it on, but sadly no.

Visit to Vans and Boeing is on the bucket list...maybe next year.


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Old 02-04-2016, 10:12 PM
ron sterba ron sterba is offline
Join Date: May 2007
Location: salem Oregon
Posts: 1,024

Hi Cleve, well I bought the carbon fiber today plus a new quart of West system epoxy 105 and 205 hardner. Mine was 2 years old at least. Getting closer. Thanks for the tips.

Ron in Oregon RV9A
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Old 02-05-2016, 04:23 AM
06ktrv6 06ktrv6 is offline
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Halifax,VA.
Posts: 27

Originally Posted by ron sterba View Post
Hi Cleve, well I bought the carbon fiber today plus a new quart of West system epoxy 105 and 205 hardner. Mine was 2 years old at least. Getting closer. Thanks for the tips.

Ron in Oregon RV9A
Ron or others,
Is there something one should know (any negatives) about using aged West system epoxy 105 and 205 hardener?

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Old 02-05-2016, 06:46 AM
Michael Henning Michael Henning is offline
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 550

The epoxy will get darker with age, but is still as strong.
RV-4 #2750
WW150C Prop
1018 lbs
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