fuel selector valve

i plan to replace my,kit supplied, fuel selector valve on my early rv-6a.

i plan to install same valve to minimize time down.

anyone done this job recently? if yes,how many gallons of fuel can be left in the tanks?

also,any other tips would be appreciated. lawrence

Lawrence, What is wrong with your valve? you may not need to replace it.

hi gasman:thank you for your reply. the original weatherhead valve is becoming very,very hard to turn. i suspect the valve seat is galled badly.
i like the idea of new.(the handle may be damaged or the shaft bent).
and it has been in service 19 years.
so i ordered a new valve from ACS. should be here saturday.

Have a look at this post.......
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=619375&postcount=4 Then go up to the top of the page to see how to rotate the handle 180 deg. if needed.

On the A model, you can pull the valve with the tanks down to 2.5 gallons each. I will confirm that amount with my notes tomorrow when I go to the airport.

Depending on the valve, you may not need to remove the body from the plumbing. Pull the guts out first and take a look. You may be able to replace the old brass cup (if that's what you have) with the new nylon one.

To remove the valve cone and shaft, first loosen the screw a few turns the pull up on the handle to pull it off of it's taper seat. Then spin off the nut and remove the entire core.

"The other thing that I did when I had the valve apart was to replace the spring with a much softer one from Ace Hardware bag #148U compression spring 1-5/32 Lgth, 3/8 Out Dia. .028 Wire Gauge. Cut this 3/8" tall and bend flat. The original spring forces the cone to seat with too much pressure and over time, the valve gets harder to turn.

Installing this spring will make this fuel valve operate with ease and still be positive."

This is basically what I did, but instead of replacing the spring I shortened it. Mine would operate fine after lubing for about six months, then get stiff again. After shortening the spring, no problems...works great.

This valve requires no lube. With the spring changed, all you need to do is lift the handle with your fingers....... it will lift about 1/32" just enough to lift the cone off of the seat and the fuel will lube it.

thanks to all for the tips. i decided to reuse my old valve body,and it's brass spool,after polishing the spool and using fuel lub.
reason:
the new homebuilders valve from ACS would restrict fuel flow some,the passageways for the fuel flow were smaller diameter.

lawrence said:

thanks to all for the tips. i decided to reuse my old valve body,and it's brass spool,after polishing the spool and using fuel lub.
reason:
the new homebuilders valve from ACS would restrict fuel flow some,the passageways for the fuel flow were smaller diameter.

Click to expand...

The port in the brass body with the nylon spool is .275" This is not an issue.

when you change the valve, tape over the gas cap and seal the vent line to the tank. it will create a vacuum in the tank and slow down any fuel flowing out of the line.

bob burns
RV-4 N82RB