What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Learned something today

The article does not say how to remove the oil pickup screen. Can someone post a link to how to do this?
 
On my engine (0-320 D2J), the oil pick-up screen is located near the bottom on the aft side of the sump. From the outside, it looks like a safety wired bolt screwed into the back of the sump. To remove it, you clip the safety wire holding it in place, then unscrew the fitting, which is 5/8" or larger if I recall correctly. By the way, you'll want to do this AFTER draining the sump.

Once you get it fully unscrewed, the threaded portion pulls out and brings a tubular screen with it. I place the entire assembly on some white paper towels to drain, then look down into the screen through the open end to see if there is any debris. In addition, you can simply pull the screen out of the female socket that is in the threaded plug. If you find debris, it is time to play junior scientist and figure out what the debris is. I've never found anything other than a few flakes of engine crankcase sealant.

Once you clean the screen and slide the tubular screen back into the female socket, you can screw the entire assembly (don't forget to use a new copper sealing washer between the plug and sump) back into the sump, re-safety wire it, and you're ready to go other than adding oil and whatever other tasks remain from the oil change...
 
If it's an engine part.. A.E.R.O. is a good place to buy it :) But I think these can be had at Spruce as well..
 
Parts....

From Lycoming

STD-111 Gasket, 1 in ID x 1 1/4 in ID x 3/32 Annular.

I believe it might also have an AN 900 number...

A whole 58 cents from AERO.....:)

http://www.aeroinstock.com/products/GASKET/5598/48371/product_detail/index.html

..also cross references to a MS35769-21 on the AERO site....

But, if it's 1.00 inch ID (and the plug has a 1.0 diam thread) then the correct cross-reference is MS35769-16 or the older AN900-16 number - and is a whole 39 cents from Aircraft Spruce.

Your Lycoming O-360 Operators Manual tells you to clean the screen every 100 hrs in Section 8.

gil A
 
Last edited:
Questions Answered: Checking Oil Pickup Screen

Wow, you guys are great. I read the article yesterday, even made a copy of it to take to the hangar, and had some questions. I believe you guys answered all my questions. What a great resource these forums are!
Thanks again.
Don
 
Continental O-300 has accessible screens

Wow, an interesting and eye opening article. I once had an older C-172 with an O-300 Continental, and it had accessible oil screens. In fact, because the engine did not have a spin on oil filter, I had to change the oil every 25 hrs. and pull and check/clean these screens as well. Fortunately, never found anything abnormal in the screens.

These copper gaskets are "crush" gaskets and must be replaced with new everytime the screen is taken out. They're cheap, so get a few of them when you do, for future oil changes.

I used to get mine at the local FBO maintenance shop. They're pretty common and usually in stock at any shop....save you on shipping costs maybe.
 
Last edited:
Screen

Screen, P/N 70484
Gasket, STD-111 or AN900-16
Torque, 135 degrees rotation after full contact
 
I bought my O-360 used (1660 hrs from a flight school Geronimo Apache) and had it overhauled. The mechanic reassembling the engine mentioned that before bolting the sump back on, they checked the screen; apparently it had been neglected for quite some time... it was completely blocked with sludge and gunk. Ouch!

So yes, I check/clean my oil screen at every oil change. At 300+ hours it comes out clean, no chunks yet! An added bonus is that it's at the lowest point of the sump (on a taildragger at least) and seems to ensure that all the old, nasty oil gets drained out.
 
Gasket

On the suject of gaskets, Does someone have the part number of the gasket that goes between the fuel inlet fitting and the carburator on a O-360.
May as well order some of those when I order the oil screen gaskets.

Gerry Clabots 7A 96 hours
 
oil screen

Two questions:

Do you still need to check the screen if you have a full flow filter and cut that open every time?

Can the copper washer be annealed and reused?

Thanks,
Daryl
 
Read it again

Daryl,
Look at the caption on the first picture at the top right side of the article. The junk they found was not indicated by cutting open a filter. Filter inspection revealed nothing. The answer to your gasket question has been mentioned a couple times. It's a crush gasket. I don't think you can uncrush it.
 
Yes....

Two questions:

Do you still need to check the screen if you have a full flow filter and cut that open every time?
.......

Thanks,
Daryl

The screen catches the big sized chunks, the filter gets the small (micro) size stuff. They perform two separate tasks...

gil A
 
No you cannot heat a crush washer to reuse it.

Metal found in the suction screen means the engine PROBABLY needs a tear down because something is breaking or coming apart. If it's big enough to get caught in the suction screen it's a big problem.

Metal found in the oil filter means the engine MIGHT need a tear down because something is wearing too fast. It might go away or it might continue. It might not be a problem if it goes away.

Because of this the suction screen inspection is more important because it gives a clue of impending engine failure where the filter inspection tells you your engine is wearing out.

Do both.

Don't panic on the first suction screen inspection when you find black flakes that crush when you rub them between your fingers. Just carbon. Panic if you find chunks of metal.:eek:
 
Oil Screens, etc.

At the risk of repeating others, yes you should check the screen at the very least every 100 hrs as recommended. However, it is an easy job, and I believe that it should be done more often. The copper washers are not like a spark plug washer in that they are actually a copper cover over a fiber (asbestos?) core. Therefore they CANNOT be reused. As has already been stated, they are very cheap and everyone should keep a handful in your tool box. Here is a question that I am sure will start another heated discussion and should likely go to another thread.
I was surprised to note that there appears to be many engines still running without a full flow filter. With so many options available, why are people still running with a screen only? My PA-20 (O-320) had only a screen for years. About five years ago, I removed the sump to replace a leaky sump gasket, and found that my sump had deposits of a a fine particulate which turned out to be ferrous metal. These particles were much too fine to be caught by the screen, and so were being circulated through out my 300 TSMOH engine. A complete disassembly revealed that a steel valve guide had failed. Fortunately, we caught it before there was any real damage to the engine. However, you could feel the abrasive material in the main bearings, and it would not have been long until the real damage started! Needless to say, I installed a full flow filter to better protect my engine going forward!
There was a previous question about the P/N of the lock washer between the fuel inlet and the fitting on the carburetor. This is a carburetor part and you will need to order them from a supplier of carb parts. Spruce and Chief are but two suppliers that I know that have them. I believe that the same washers are used for the finger screen. If you need to remove the fitting or screen, but do not have a new washer in your parts supply, I would suggest that you do not use a screwdriver/punch to bend the tabs back. If you very carefully and gentley undo the fitting it will only bend the tabs back as far as needed to loosen the fitting. Be careful not to damage the tabs with your socket/wrench.
That having been said, if your washer is damaged or tabs broken, replace it before re-installation.
 
Thanks

Do you remove your oil pickup screen at every oil change? My answer: from now on I will !!

Pete:

Thanks for this information. I have read my Lycoming manual more than once and have noted the reference to the oil suction screen. But each time I asked my flying friends (whom I trust on maintenance items) whether I needed to clean/change any other items than the spin-on oil filter, they've always said no.

I'll bet a number of us builders (certainly me) did not know we needed to do this. So thanks for the education.

BTW the gaskets are available at Aircraft Spruce for $.39 each: AN900-16 or MS35769-21. They seem to be on back order at the moment -- perhaps you started a run on the product. :)

Chris
 
Correct numbers....

.....
BTW the gaskets are available at Aircraft Spruce for $.39 each: AN900-16 or MS35769-21. They seem to be on back order at the moment -- perhaps you started a run on the product. :)

Chris

Chris... the MS "dash" numbers are the same as the AN 900 "dash" numbers.

It's a MS3576-16 for a 1 inch ID.

See my earlier posts....

gil A
 
A tip for A models. You might want to pull the mains up onto small ramps or something to get the plane level before draining the sump. I took out the screen at my condition inspection (after draining the oil) and a lot of oil came out of there making a nice mess. I think our A models tip back slightly and thus the sump isn't level.
 
Chris... the MS "dash" numbers are the same as the AN 900 "dash" numbers.

It's a MS3576-16 for a 1 inch ID.

See my earlier posts....

gil A

Well Gil, I'm looking at the Spruce catalog and they show an AN900-16 as being equivalent to an MS35769-21. So I'm either going to have an ample supply of the right size or a bunch of shims for those uneven tables at the local restaurant. :eek: I'll know soon.

Chris
 
Not alone by any means

Pete:
Thanks for this information. I have read my Lycoming manual more than once and have noted the reference to the oil suction screen. But each time I asked my flying friends (whom I trust on maintenance items) whether I needed to clean/change any other items than the spin-on oil filter, they've always said no.

I'll bet a number of us builders (certainly me) did not know we needed to do this. So thanks for the education.
Chris

I attended a hands-on Lycoming workshop a year ago (a 2 day workshop on performing a 100 hourly on a Lycoming). Twelve guys attended and 7 of them were already flying and had been doing their own maintenance. Of those 7 who were flying only 3 of them had heard about the finger filter. The other 4 got a big shock when the instructor unscrewed the filter and removed it. Two of them had over 500 hours on their planes and had never removed the filter (because they didn't know it was there).

My guess is that a fairly large number of RV owners doing their own engine maintenence don't know about that filter. Come to think of it.....my guess is that a fairly large number of RV owners doing their own engine maintenance don't know a LOT of things that they should about FWF matters.
 
Last edited:
Correct part?

Well Gil, I'm looking at the Spruce catalog and they show an AN900-16 as being equivalent to an MS35769-21. So I'm either going to have an ample supply of the right size or a bunch of shims for those uneven tables at the local restaurant. :eek: I'll know soon.

Chris
Chris, have you determined yet what the correct washer is? If anyone can confirm I need to order some. I'm one of those guys who didn't know you needed to check/clean this screen.

Also, I'm assuming it is the same for O-320-O-360 since they use the same case & sump, can anyone confirm?
 
Chris, have you determined yet what the correct washer is? If anyone can confirm I need to order some. I'm one of those guys who didn't know you needed to check/clean this screen.

Also, I'm assuming it is the same for O-320-O-360 since they use the same case & sump, can anyone confirm?

AN900-16. I just checked my Spruce order from about six months ago when I ordered some...
 
Last edited:
Anyone?

On the suject of gaskets, Does someone have the part number of the gasket that goes between the fuel inlet fitting and the carburator on a O-360.
May as well order some of those when I order the oil screen gaskets.

Gerry Clabots 7A 96 hours

Anyone have this part number for this tabbed washer/gasket? I have not been able to find it called out anywhere.
 
AN900-16

Chris, have you determined yet what the correct washer is? If anyone can confirm I need to order some. I'm one of those guys who didn't know you needed to check/clean this screen.

Also, I'm assuming it is the same for O-320-O-360 since they use the same case & sump, can anyone confirm?

Randy:

The AN900-16 is the one and can be ordered from Spruce. The Spruce catalog also lists it as an MS35769-21. The bag that arrived from Spruce was marked AN900-16 with no reference to the MS number.

Chris
 
copper washer

So, what is a good source for the copper sealing washer?



The washer can be had at Wicks or Aircraft Spruce. If memory serves me, it is an an927-?
I always check the lower sump screen. Never know what you will find.
Jim
 
Urk

I just installed a Safe-Air quick oil drain on my RV-4 and was looking forward to relatively painless oil changes. Now I see that I'll need to add the oil screen check which is a much bigger hassle than the drain plug R&R ever was.

Sigh.
 
New Screen was Bent up

Last week end I removed my oil screen for cleaning for the first time since new on a Lycoming 0-360. The screen was bent up at the far end as if the plug was tightened without the screen being properly seated into position. So, check the oil screen you may be surprised what you find and be careful when you put it back in.
 
Screen Clean

I know this is an old thread, but at the oil change tonight, I removed and checked the oil sump screen on my O-320. Removing, checking and reinstalling was not too hard, but replacing the safety wire was a royal pain. I was lucky Mike Behnke stopped by to drop off some books and stayed to help.

Here are some pics that might help someone:

Access on the trigear is a bit limited

GPS400%20105.jpg


Here are the parts removed - nothing in the screen- giddy up!

GPS400%20108.jpg


Close up of the plug and the new gasket

GPS400%20111.jpg


Good luck with the safety wire.......

GPS400%20109.jpg


All in all, it took 3 hrs to change the oil, remove the screen, test run for leaks, and button her all back up. 1.5 hrs was that dang safety wire.
 
After checking the screen, replacing the crush washer and reinstalling the screen it seems I am always fighting a seapy oil leak. I suspect I never get the torque set correctly on the first try.

Does anyone know what the correct in lb torque value should be?

Someone earlier mentioned 135 degrees past full contact - using that method, how do you determine "full contact" - ie the point at which you start measuring the 135 degrees?
 
Clean.......

Hi Randy,

400 hobbs hours, and it was clean as a whistle.

There is no way to get a torque wrench in there without major disassembly. The gasket is crushed, the plug is tight, safety wired, and my fingers are crossed, hoping for no leaks.........
 
Pete,
Thanks for posting the pictures. A picture is worth a thousand words, and since I haven't yet done my first oil change, it really helps knowing what to expect. 9.5 hours on N558RV, and so far, so good.

Mark
 
Washer

Hi Dave,

The washer appeared to have the same shape on both sides. It has a round, not flat cross section.
 
IS DOES MATTER........

Which way is the crush washer faced when reinstalling? or does it matter.

If I recall right, the seam faces away from the motor case (oil pan). Screw it in hand tight and then place a sharpie mark at 12:00 then with your open end wrench, tighten the cap till the mark is at the 4:30 position. Wire up, and your done........................:)

YOU MUST USE A NEW WASHER EACH TIME.................:cool:
 
If I recall right, the seam faces away from the motor case (oil pan). Screw it in hand tight and then place a sharpie mark at 12:00 then with your open end wrench, tighten the cap till the mark is at the 4:30 position. Wire up, and your done........................:)

YOU MUST USE A NEW WASHER EACH TIME.................:cool:

Superior Vantage O-360, IO-360 Series Maintenance manual p/n SVMM01, revision A, March 2006 P#4 has a table 72-00-11.5 "Crush type gasket tightening angles" that references the 135 deg. number. It also has a note that says: install crush gasket with seam toward aluminum case. Tighten thread until cap or valve body contacts gasket. Turn additional angle shown above. Lock wire in place.
 
Oil catcher

When I remove the oil screen I take an empty water bottle with the cap on and then cut about 3" of the bottle away from the side of the bottle near the end so that it will sit underneath the oil screen. When you loosen the oil screen bolt, the oil will then run into the bottle and will almost fill it up before it is through draining. CCCarefully remove and you have saved a mess from running down the back of the engine.
Randy "U"
RV-7
 
Here's what my screen looked like the first time I took it out of a new 250 hr Lycoming.
my.php
 
crushed suction screen

John - I think the damage to your screen may have been caused by careless installation, which is very easy to do. If you're not careful, you can catch the screen on the edge of the case (way up inside) and then simply crush it with the plug. When I got my plane the screen was the same way.

If you find a dowel of the correct size, you can slowly reform the screen and maybe save yourself from buying a new part (worked for me). Then as you are putting it back in, be sure it is seated in the case correctly before putting the plug in.

I've found the gasket to be reusable, at least a few times.

Good luck,
 
John - I think the damage to your screen may have been caused by careless installation, which is very easy to do. If you're not careful, you can catch the screen on the edge of the case (way up inside) and then simply crush it with the plug. When I got my plane the screen was the same way.

If you find a dowel of the correct size, you can slowly reform the screen and maybe save yourself from buying a new part (worked for me). Then as you are putting it back in, be sure it is seated in the case correctly before putting the plug in.

I've found the gasket to be reusable, at least a few times.

Good luck,

This screen was installed at the Lycoming factory, you'd think they know how to do. This was the first time I took it out. I bought a new one and replaced it very carefully as you suggested. I think it is best to finger tighten the plug slowly to assure it isn't caught and hanging up.
 
What I found.

Well, since I started this thread, I thought I'd report what I found today during my oil change.

All good news, actually. The screen had about 1/8 to 1/4 TEAspoon of black hard particles. When the particles were rubbed between my fingers, they disintegrated into a black oily "powder", proving that it was carbon.

The filter, when cut open, was pretty clean, again with a small amount of carbon in each pleat. No significant metal. Oil sample taken, results pending.
:D:D:D
 
On my engine (0-320 D2J), the oil pick-up screen is located near the bottom on the aft side of the sump. From the outside, it looks like a safety wired bolt screwed into the back of the sump. To remove it, you clip the safety wire holding it in place, then unscrew the fitting, which is 5/8" or larger if I recall correctly. By the way, you'll want to do this AFTER draining the sump.

Once you get it fully unscrewed, the threaded portion pulls out and brings a tubular screen with it. I place the entire assembly on some white paper towels to drain, then look down into the screen through the open end to see if there is any debris. In addition, you can simply pull the screen out of the female socket that is in the threaded plug. If you find debris, it is time to play junior scientist and figure out what the debris is. I've never found anything other than a few flakes of engine crankcase sealant.

Once you clean the screen and slide the tubular screen back into the female socket, you can screw the entire assembly (don't forget to use a new copper sealing washer between the plug and sump) back into the sump, re-safety wire it, and you're ready to go other than adding oil and whatever other tasks remain from the oil change...
Thanks for this information about screen filter I personally did not know about it
Charles Mifsud
Australia
 
I heard this a long time ago .....

Some aircraft owners are so meticulous about their safety wire that the wire install job on the pan filter plug looks as if it was done at the factory. They even repainted everything.
 
How True!

Last year I worked on an O-320 dash nothing. Yes, an original O-320 circa 1953. The oil screen had never been cleaned. The original paint was still on the copper crush gasket!
And yes, I found enough metal in the filter and screen to warrant a teardown.

Vic
 
Back
Top