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So...I'm ready to jump in. But where to start?

Is there a guide somewhere on what you need to get started building an RV-10? I've seen the tool kits from Cleveland and PlaneTools, but I'm not sure which kit is "better" and what I should upgrade/customize in the kits and what I should purchase in addition to the kits. Being that my location is on quarantine right now, and looks like it may continue to be through the end of May, I'll have to order most additional tools (Finer grit sandpaper, etc...) online, so I'm hoping to find a solid starter list of things I'm definitely going to need so I can get ahead. I'm ready to start placing orders on Monday!
 
I bought the tool kit from Cleaveland and was very happy with the quality and service. You can substitute/delete from the pre-set kit.

Get the pneumatic squeezer, DRDT2 you will be glad you did.

I would skip the pneumatic drill, I used a B&D 20v cordless drill with 2 batteries and it was plenty powerful and convenient.

I bought my belt sander, bandsaw and bench grinder from Harbor Freight. Drill press was purchased on Amazon. Nothing fancy but enough for my needs.

Trying to plan every possible tool is difficult, you will be making plenty of random purchases during the build.

Enjoy the journey.
 
Personally, I like Aircraft Tool Supply (https://aircraft-tool.com) now that Avery is gone. Get a kit that doesn't include sockets, dogbones, and screwdrivers. I think either the Journeyman's or RV builder's kits would be good. Order (first!) a practice kit from Van's. You'll also want additional tools: bench grinder and drill press, compressor. Sockets, click-type torque wrench (in inch-pounds; the bigger ones you may want later for engine work), allen, phillps, slot drivers, and so on, can be sourced wherever you like. Mine are all Craftsman, others like Snap-on, but cheap will cost you in the long run. Other tools will occur to you as you build or are luxuries. I like a cut-off wheel and a band saw. A retiring A&P gave me a bending brake/shear. Extra cleco pliers (they are always on the other side of the project when you look for them - Murphy's Law Section 15.4.b). And storage. Lots of bins for small parts, shelves for big ones, cabinets for your tools, and rolling shelving (restaurant style) to have near your project. I also went to the nearby university and got an electronics workstation for my soldering gear and crimping tools plus a desk where I keep paperwork and a laptop with the plans. More recently, I got a filing cabinet to help store papers. I would also suggest getting the Vans Lightbox kit; it's more good practice and will dress up your shop space. Oh, and there are all the mundane things that we always forget: brooms, mops, degreaser, shop towels, fire extinguisher, and a good first aid kit.

Seem like a lot? You can start with the basics and add on as you progress. I built the tail kit of my RV-6A with little more than the Avery starter kit, Sears portable compressor, a hobby drill press, and tools I already had for working on cars. That was in '94. I set up my current hangar/shop in '15. So if it takes 20 years to accumulate, you'll understand there is no rush.;)

Oh, and clecos. Too many are never enough. My collection has quadrupled over the years (some are reserved only for fiberglass work).
 
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Thanks for the input! Luckily I already have a huge amount of tools because I'm constantly working on our vehicles / tinkering for fun. There are a few things in your list I don't have though, so I'll get those on order as well.
 
Pneumatic Squeezer Counterpoint

Personally I would skip the traditional* pneumatic squeezer, but like most other things, some people love them, some don't.

My experience was that it was very expensive, very heavy, and quite awkward. I couldn't get the thing to squeeze a rivet straight to save my life. And don't think that you'll just try it out and then return it if you don't like it, at least not to Aircraft Spruce if you're honest and tell them you tried it.

I ended up going with the Cleaveland Main Squeeze and absolutely love it. Again some love it, some don't, so ymmv. (Down side is that it is 'officially' limited to 1/8" rivets max, although I squeezed a few 5/32s with no issue whatsoever. I may have damaged mine a little trying to dimple nutplates, not sure; it still works fine, it's just not as smooth as it was)

*The Numatx pneumatic squeezer looks very promising and starting over I would probably give that go. Looks very light and it's foot-pedal operated, one-handed operation.

(Side note, the DRDT2 was awesome.)
 
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Basic Builder Log

Check out my blog for Favorite Links. Download the Basic Builder Log
One tab is every tool I've purchased for my build. It may help.
Personally I'm a C-frame, rivet gun, tungsten bar kinda guy. Buy the practice kits and pound some rivets. You'll figure out what tools you want.
 
Check out my blog for Favorite Links. Download the Basic Builder Log
One tab is every tool I've purchased for my build. It may help.
Personally I'm a C-frame, rivet gun, tungsten bar kinda guy. Buy the practice kits and pound some rivets. You'll figure out what tools you want.

Lots of good ideas in this thread. I side with this one, mostly. I'd get a manual squeezer and a basic tool set as described above. Then add as necessary. You don't need a lot of specialized stuff for the tail...
 
My tool set from Plane Tools (Isham) was great quality. The pneumatic drill and pneumatic squeezer were very helpful for me. I was always disappointed when I had rivets that I had to shoot with the gun. On a line of rivets, the squeezer ones always came out perfect. There are many opinions out here and almost all of them are great. You can’t go wrong with ordering a kit from a major supplier, and a couple of practice kits and get started.

You will always find things you like along the way and can upgrade, or sell off others. Quality tools sell close to the purchase price here so there is little loss trying something and changing your mind. As for the main squeeze, my hangar mate has one and I recently tried it. I said to myself I can’t believe people actually use these things after being comfortable with the pneumatic ones. Everything takes getting used to and learning how to use it. I have heard there are different quality of squeezers out there.

One of the most important things to start is after you set a few rivets, and try out the different methods, have an EXPERIENCED builder or two come by and offer their opinion. Just because they are a builder, doesn’t make them an expert. Get a few opinions. Learning proper techniques early will go a long way.

Now, ask about primers and let’s really get this conversation going!!!

Just noticed you are in PR. If finances allow, you may want to start with a larger kit since shipping will be longer and some things may be difficult to find locally. I can’t see much need for fine sandpaper that was mentioned until you are finishing fiberglass. It’s cheap, so no harm getting it. Scotchbrite pads are the choice for most deburring.
 
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Lots of good advice here, thanks everyone. I definitely want to start with a mostly all-inclusive kit for the location issues mentioned by Joel. Shipping to here is EXPENSIVE. Isham quoted me $750 shipping for the RV tool kit. That stings. I definitely want to try to get a bulk of the tools in one shipment just to save shipping cost and minimize downtime waiting for things to arrive.
 
It took a little practice, but I prefer the pneumatic squeezer to hand most of the time. Control is what I had to learn, and there are still some places I cannot control it 100%, so I hand squeeze. But for repetitive quality rivets I find it is the best for me, and is the fastest way as well to set rivets.
 
What town are you in? In Humacao there's a guy who's been building his own gyroplanes for decades (not from kits) so regarding construction he might be a good asset even though not RV related.

Regarding flying them Cuso Ortiz has flown everything single engine out there and is now retired from commercial flying and I'm sure he could help. I got my Acrobatic training from him decades ago. I owned a Citabria and he owned a Decathlon.
 
Congrats on making the leap!

I purchased my tool kit from Cleveland and they are extremely helpful on things to add/delete. I also have to deal with expensive shipping and they took that into consideration when giving me advice on things I'll need.

Personally I think the main squeeze is a great tool which I wouldn't build without now. I also think a good quality air drill is worth the money.

Do you have the plans on USB yet? because taking a look through section 5 will give you some ideas on extra things you'll need.
 
Don't forget the air compressor. In general, the bigger the tank, the less frequently the compressor will need to run. If you're planning on spray painting with it, check some of the likely paints for an idea of how much air flow you might need. A bigger tank can help with that, supplying air at the requisite rate until it's down.

Other tools that may come in handy are a decent collection of fine files and a Vixen file. I personally like a C-frame and a large hammer. Works great for dimpling.

In the other comments, Wirejock has very good advice.

Dave
 
A few odd tools often overlooked:

Long 12" drill bits in #30 & 40.

Chain saw files. They come in many sizes and are cheap. Good for making a relief radius.

Tungsten bucking bar... not an option. Get some extra pieces of steel of many shapes and sizes, they will be pushed into service when a Tbar won't work. Grind as required.

Long 10 or 12" sanding block. Makes for nice straight edges.

Small collet with 4" handle to hold countersink bits. Starret made mine long ago, I added a handle.

Countersink/debur handle, offset type. Get a 135 degree countersink 3/32" pilot for hole debur with that handle.

Deburring handle with bits. There are many kinds of bits for holes, edges, radius etc. Have more than one handle, selection of bits.

An extra Cleco plier.

Metal scribe for aligning / finding holes. "Hook on one end" type.

Work apron with pockets

Cheap plastic dial caliper. Drop proof, for measuring in 100 ths

"Speed handle" and 3/8" adapter for holding bits / driving Philips head screws.

If you have a table saw, a 100 tooth carbide blade will make it your go to cutoff tool.

ScotchBrite polish wheel for grinder motor.

Big Dust brushes and big dust pan for cleaning up ... frequently

Mirror on extension handle for inspecting hard to see areas.

Flush rivet head with hard rubber ring.

Love my squeezer!

These are some of the tools I reach for frequently, and buying them up front has kept me from "making do" with predictably poor results. Tools don't make the craftsman, but bad tools can put you on the "struggle bus" way too often!

Cheers
 
Extra Long Bucking Bar

Don't forget the extra long bucking bar specifically for the -10/14 elevator. You could fab one yourself but they're fairly inexpensive.
 
Tools

I was very pleased with the kit from Cleveland. I am currently using it on my second build. An essential is the ?Geezer Squeezer? and also the Sioux pneumatic drill. The drill is costly, but the first few times you have to drill out a bad rivet you will be so glad you have it!

Another thought is to get extra Clecos ....you never seem to have enough.
Jim Frisbie
RV 9A (850 hrs)
RV 10 ( in process)
Tech Counselor
 
I'll throw my two cents in here. I went with Plane Tools (Isham) and was extremely pleased. His tool sets are tailored to the airframe you are building. Also, his customer support is great. I had an issue with the die sets that I received. When I contacted him, he immediately sent a new set, no questions asked. As far as squeezers go, I have the pneumatic that came with the Isham set. Some of the earlier comments apply, it is heavy, but I've found ways to work with that. I have a hand squeezer also, but find that these older hands ache pretty badly when I use it for any length of time (isn't getting a bit older great?). I also agree with the comments to order the practice kits from Vans and use them to develop the needed skills. I even went so far as to drill out several rivets, even though they were fine, just so I could practice that skill. I see now that Vans includes a very basic practice kit in the empennage kits, that's great, but I would recommend both the toolbox and the airfoil kits. The airfoil kit helps you develop rolling the leading edges of the control surfaces, very helpful.
 
Going thru this myself

I'm going thru the same thing myself. I might as well have just bought the Cleveland kit outright, since my plan to buy as I go had me purchasing the items in the kit in slow motion. Just get the kit from Cleveland, he's a great guy. BTW: His YouTube videos are excellent, and very informative.
 
just buy the best/most expensive tools you can... last century I thought I would save some dough and ordered cheapies from ACS; ended rebuilding the VS due to some out-of-round countersink tool, imprecise dimple dies and so forth. Luckily ACS has improved their tooling.

Not sure if it's been listed, but hole replicators can be a useful tool as well, different sizes.

Enjoy your shopping and the assembly :)
 
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