What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Radios and tip up canopy

R

rmr

Member
Im building a 7a tip-up and am currently fabricating the panels and starting to plan out the canopy release mechanism. Recently, I noticed on a builders website (slider though), that the radios went through the sub panel. I'm trying to figure out how this would work with the canopy release and the hat channel that goes back there. I am currently considering a garmin G3x set up and am wondering what other tip up builders do to get all the radios and connectors in there. Regarding the canopy release I was considering dropping the release bar vertically behind the panel instead of through it.

Thank you for your input

Richard Rivera
Rv7a
Finish kit arrived!
 
Richard,
I constructed the entire release mechanism & ended-up not using for reasons you mentioned. Depending on your avionics & such, you may need to cut into the sub-panel. I installed a GTN650 & it sticks through the subpanel about 2 inches. An SL40 requires clearance as well. Also, be careful of how high up on the panel you mount equipment. The forward canopy frame bow and braces can cause interference problems. Plan carefully...measure, then measure again. :D
PS: The need for the release mechanism is a whole 'nuther discussion found elsewhere on the forum. :eek:
 
I went the vertical route on the release handle too, and like it so far. Sure is handy when fabricating the canopy. Not so much while in flight.

I'm using shorter radios primarily so I don't have to cut into the sub panel.
 
Picture

Here is a picture of my Garmin 430 and SL 40 trays sticking through the sub panel. I ended up ditching the whole release mechanism as many have done in order to make room for the center stack radios. Center stacking the radio's is the only way the 2 10" Skyviews would fit.

1.jpg
 
Thanks Don. That photo shows exactly what I feared, that the radios would penetrate. As much as I would love the convenience to take off the canopy for maintenance and painting, I don't see how a Garmin stack and the release mechanism are compatible.
 
I used bolts to attach the canopy. It is not that difficult to get to em if you need to. I used drilled type with cotter pins.
 
Pins

I made some pins that can be released from the front side of the sub panel.
They work pretty slick.

latch1.jpg


latch2.jpg


latch3.jpg


latch4.jpg
 
Don, great idea!! Appears to be a pin welded to a piece of angle. Did you use the hardware in the kit or did you source a different pin. I'm going to try to replicate this on mine.
 
rmr said:
Don, great idea!! Appears to be a pin welded to a piece of angle. Did you use the hardware in the kit or did you source a different pin. I'm going to try to replicate this on mine.
Click to expand...

It is the pin from the kit tig welded to a piece of angle. It's hard to see in the picture, but I put some UHMV tape on the panel to keep the angle from sticking and make it work as smoothly as possible. You can remove the retaining screw and install a long an3 bolt for extra grip to slide the pin if necessary. If I had it to do again, I would bend the angle up on my brake instead of using off the shelf angle. It's a little on the heavy side;)
 
rmr said:
Don, great idea!! Appears to be a pin welded to a piece of angle. Did you use the hardware in the kit or did you source a different pin. I'm going to try to replicate this on mine.
Click to expand...

Don't know what comes in the -7 kit, but the -6x kits had you make your own pin from an eyebolt -

an43b.jpg


Any cut down AN bolt of the correct diameter would do as a pin...
 
Hi Don,
I think that is a pretty nifty idea. Too late for me as I've already implemented a cut-down (at the subpanel) conventional T-handle.

If I were to do it your way I think I would make one change - I'd use two screws/nutplates per pin angle, one going through a slotted hole in the sub-panel like you have and another through a standard round hole in the subpanel that only lined up with the 2nd angle nutplate when the pin was fully engaged. I know your setup is very easy to inspect incase the single screw loosens and the pin backs out, but a two screw model would make me a bit more relaxed about it.

Excellent idea though. Thanks for posting.

Steve

Don Jones said:
I made some pins that can be released from the front side of the sub panel.
They work pretty slick.


latch4.jpg
Click to expand...
 
shuttle said:
Hi Don,
I think that is a pretty nifty idea. Too late for me as I've already implemented a cut-down (at the subpanel) conventional T-handle.

If I were to do it your way I think I would make one change - I'd use two screws/nutplates per pin angle, one going through a slotted hole in the sub-panel like you have and another through a standard round hole in the subpanel that only lined up with the 2nd angle nutplate when the pin was fully engaged. I know your setup is very easy to inspect incase the single screw loosens and the pin backs out, but a two screw model would make me a bit more relaxed about it.

Excellent idea though. Thanks for posting.

Steve
Click to expand...

I considered the 2 screw idea AFTER I already had the plate nut riveted, but it is overkill as it is. I could actually just tap the angle and put another screw like you suggested, just don't feel it is reallly needed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top