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  #11  
Old 11-23-2019, 01:58 PM
TShort TShort is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Indianapolis, IN (KUMP)
Posts: 1,054
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Tim-

I leave mine on 24x7. I connect it right after I push the plane in the hangar, and then just forget about it. I agree, I don't think the added complexity is worth it.
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Thomas Short
KUMP - Indianapolis, IN / KAEJ - Buena Vista, CO
RV-10 N410TS bought / flying
RV-8 wings / fuse in progress ... still
1948 Cessna 170 N3949V
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  #12  
Old 11-23-2019, 10:52 PM
TimO TimO is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 628
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Thanks for that. I decided to just do as you do and go 24x7. I may as well see how long the desiccant lasts right away. I purchased enough extra to change it out and bring home the used to bake off, so it's not going to be too much heartache if I have to regen it monthly. I found out tonight that my RV14 probably needs a size 0 stopper to fit in the breather, which is smaller than I thought. In my experimenting, I ordered a whole bag of various sized stoppers, so today I ordered up a cork/rubber stopper boring set on eBay. Never had to use one before, but wish I would have had one in the past. Apparently the way to drill holes in thick rubber is to use a sharpened piece of tubing to drill through it. They actually sell those in sets of various sizes. I figured what the heck, I already own the stopper I need, so I may as well get the tools. Any excuse to buy a new tool, right? I'll post a pic of what I built sometime after i get a chance.
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RV-10 N104CD - Flying 2/2006 - 1400+ hours http://www.MyRV10.com
RV-14 N14YT - Flying 6/2016 - 350+ hours http://www.MyRV14.com
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2019, 11:06 PM
RV7 To Go RV7 To Go is offline
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 284
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Tim,

You will find different sizes of both dipsticks and breathers. Just have to see what you have and build one accordingly.

Some of the guys on the field have built them with a hygrometer inside a sealed box on the return to the pump. I was never a fan of this as I don't think it senses the moisture level in the crankcase properly, unless you put it on a timer to run it periodically. I personally like the KISS theory and just run it 24/7.

In the Toronto Canada area my 1.5L bottle lasts about 3 weeks in winter and 1 week in summer. I don't recirculate at the moment, just run it into the dipstick tube and out the breather with the exhaust pipes capped. I also wait about 15 min after a flight with the dipstick pulled, to vent some of the vapours out of the crankcase, before installing the drier.

When I was doing it recirculation about doubled the time before drying the silica. It also gets engine fumes absorbed into the silica, so don't dry it out in the oven at home or the wife may have something to say! Ask me how I know....
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RV4 - Bought 2013 Sold 2017 after 450 hrs
RV7 - Built in 6.5 yrs & Flying 2017
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2020, 04:23 PM
raisbeck raisbeck is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Laramie, WY
Posts: 24
Default aquarium pump engine drier

About 15 years ago, I parked my 182 because I found magnetic particles in the oil and didn't have the money for a tear down. After a year or so, I became concerned about corrosion and bought an aquarium pump at Mal-wart, ran the outlet thru a liter of laboratory drier (Drierite as I recall) that I had laying around, and from there thru a small particle filter into the oil filler. I didn't plug the intake, but rather left the pump inside the plastic I wrapped the engine in.

With one thing and another (new roof, kids' college, etc.) I wasn't able to do the teardown for ~8 years. When I did, the parts of the engine beneath the pistons (cam, crank, etc.) were as shiny as new (metal turned out to be from a failed starter adaptor, which is a whole 'nother story). The upper cylinders had a "very light" coating of surficial discoloration (prob rust) that the IA honed off before reassembly. Its been another 4-5 years and 2-300 hrs on the engine since then with no indications of any problems.

I checked the dessicant for moisture ever month or so, but only had to change it 2-3 times in that whole period.

I understand the argument about closed loop systems, and can't argue about the theoretical advantages, but mine wasn't and it seemed to work, based upon the indicator in the drierite, and the condition of the engine when we reassembled it. Granted, I live in a fairly dry climate (6-8" of precip), and the pump was in the same contained envelope as the engine, but I had pretty decent results with this very simple method. It certainly beats the old procedure of wrapping an engine with plastic and throwing a pillow of silica gel in with it.
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