Crotch belt attach too narrow...

OK, OK. I have decided to add the 5 point belts, and I ordered the crotch belt kit from Vans *BUT* is appears to narrow and leaves a gap in the ribs. Does anyone have an idea WHY this is too narrow? The flooring fits fine, so I do not think the ribs are wrong. The F-7117A and F-7117B do not fit between the ribs. Either side.



*sigh*

CC

David
Your not going to be happy to hear this but the F-716 rib shown to the right in your picture is orientated wrong should have the flange facing away from the rib to the left. Drawing #22 should clarify this.

So sorry, David, but Arnie's right.

It looks like when you installed your seat ribs, you put the left one on the right side, and the right one on the left. That would be easy to do, since the floor holes on top of the rib would still line up, and so would the holes below on the bottom of the rib that are in the belly skin. It's hard to imagine it makes any difference structurally.



I think there's a way out, though. There must be a way to fabricate an extension to close the gap with, so you can rivet it together. Either that or fab some new crotch strap brackets that are a little wider. Either of those would be a much more preferable solution than undoing your work. That's probably unthinkable at this point.

You need a custom 5/8" or 3/4" tall "hat section" like F-697 on DWG-47. If F-697 is the right size, I would use it and order more if needed.

On second thought, you could flatten the right side flanges (hammer and wood block work) and join them to the right side rib with angles of your own manufacture. Use sheet gage at or thicker than the brackets for fabricating the attachment angles. I think this is the way I would fix it, rather than the hat section above.

Well, these thing happen, so lets make it look professional. If it were me, I would cut the bent flange off the proper side, right at the edge of the bend radius. Then take a similar stock thickness and make some angles with, a nice bend radius, and simply extend the part using dimpled rivets along the length to ensure good strength. Use close spacing like the sides.

If you can not bend your own (and you should as you will need that skill and tool eventually) then maybe the L shaped bracket that is the second support for the control cables might be a good, cost effective piece. You can find the number from the drawings.

Once one gets off the beaten path, it is a little more work to get back, this I know from repeated experiences. (like yesterday - remaking the fuel pump to firewall tube, when the Vans tubing order arrives that is. . . . )

I think I would fab up a new 7117A/B part to fit.

Ah well.....

If this is the worst mistake I've made, it is not so bad. The floor fits.

Thanx for the advice all! I do have access to a brake, so we will review where we stand. I believe it is just a little more work. I'm keeping the crotch strap.

.. and we were SO careful with the ribs!

CC

U channel or square tubing

You can find aluminum U channel to fill in (flush on correct rib so belt placement is correct to center of seat, channel build up on reversed rib). Rivet and move on. One can also purchase aluminum square tubing to fit and cut off one side to fabricate your own "U" channel or blind rivet that side if you wish to leave it square.

Pat Garboden
Katy, TX
RV9A N942PT Phase I complete

Looking for a Silver Lining

At least future builders searching on these part numbers might learn from this easy-to-make mistake.

Mine is the same way. You are in good company!

I noticed the mistake with the rib orientation after they were installed and called Vans to see if it was ok. Turns out structurally it is fine. I used some angles to adapt the croch stap brackets.