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Another oval hole

jlfernan

jlfernan

Well Known Member
I hate making rookie mistakes. Started the aft top skin on my 9A. Decided to to try back-riveting the skins. The SECOND rivet came out ugly. In drilling it out, I ovaled the hole through the longeron. I pre-squeezed the new rivet before putting it in. Results are not perfect, but I don't want to mess with it anymore. I know it's only one rivet, but I'd like a little reassurance it'll be OK considering it the second rivet from the beginning of the skin and the oval hole in the longeron. Or anyone got a couple of 4-6 OOPS rivets they can spare? Thanks.

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They don't make 3-6 Oops rivets, do they? I have some 4-5's if you want to drive up to Merritt Island!

But like you said, one rivet out of a bunch is nothing to worry about.
 
Jeff R said:
They don't make 3-6 Oops rivets, do they? I have some 4-5's if you want to drive up to Merritt Island!

But like you said, one rivet out of a bunch is nothing to worry about.
Click to expand...

Oops rivets are size 4, or 1/8". I have some in -6 and also have some 7/64 rivets, although in -4 length. Check PM's.
 
Also, how did most people set the rivets in this skin, backriveting or the traditional method?
 
shoot them from the front

because they are in the thick longeron they are hard to screw up. i even went 1/2 size over cause i didnt want to cut them. but when they are in the thicker material they shoot well. as a matter of fact that is what im doing in the avatar pic....piece of cake, and i was stretched out quite a bit.
 
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BTW, the best way to remove a rivet without ovaling the hole is to drill just deep enough to break off the head with a pin punch, then have a helper hold a bucking bar (with edges taped) next to the shop head and hammer out the rivet.
 
Which rivet are we talkin' about in that photo? The one toward the left looks skewed up and left, not completely covering the hole (maybe it's just the way I'm interpreting the photo?). The one toward the right has a shop head that is...well... Personally I'd replace both of 'em.
 
Replaced the 1st one. Waiting for somes OOPS rivets to do the second. I did the other side and some between the top aft skin and the center bulkhead with my pneumatic squeezer and they came out perfect. Too bad you can't do them all this way.
 
Jorge, the oops rivets are on the way, but keep in mind that the same rivet length in 1/8" will be slightly short in making the required 1-1/2 rivet diameter available for forming the shop head. GAH lists oops rivets in 4-6.5 and 4-7 in case the 4-6's can't do it.
 
I'd replace both of them, but I'm picky. The right one definitely has to go.

I tried to use a backrivetting set and can't get proper results. I just use a flat set and backrivet with it, works perfectly and I can switch side at will.
 
The right has been replaced. Used my pneumatic squeezer and it's now perfect, I'm a little picky myself, you should read my other posts. In reference to the OOPS rivets, I'll look at them when they arrive. I work at KMIA and across the stret there is a company called Avico which deals in aircraft hardware. I'll check with them to see if they carry them if not I'll go thru GAH. Thanks for everyone"s help.
 
My tech counselor and the technical material I have read say you cause more damage by removing a moderately bunged up rivet than if you just leave it alone. For me, if it will be an asthetic problem, I may go on and replace it, but otherwise I will tend to let it be. I think these aircraft are pretty much overdesigned when it comes to the number of rivets used, so I doubt than in these non highly critical areas that it really doesn't matter either way. For me, I have drilled out a few rivets and ended up making it worse!
 
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