What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Engine swap considerations - Narrow deck to wide deck

00Dan

Well Known Member
I recently reached an agreement to purchase a motor to replace my rather long in the tooth narrow deck 320 that's on my RV-4. The new motor is a wide deck A model, so still a conical mount. I'm making a list of things that should be done in the process of the swap and wanted to get the VAF input on if I'm missing anything or should consider a different route.

As far as engine mounts bushings go, I understand there is a fancier Lord conical mount but I've been unable to confirm the correct PN. Are these worth the extra scratch over the plain rubber mounts?

FWF accessories my plan was just to either flush the oil cooler or get it overhauled. I also plan to go ahead and replace any old hoses. The new engine is coming with Slick mags and I currently have Bendix; I believe the only change would be my P-lead connections. My current carb and airbox are in good shape and should bolt right up, as should the exhaust.

As far as baffling is concerned, should the baffling that is fit to my narrow deck engine fit on the wide deck? Should new baffling be a consideration? What about things like cylinder wraps while the baffling is off?

Will starter and alternator bracket mounts be a straight swap?

My prop extension uses 7/16" bolts while the new crank has 3/8" lugs. Is swapping the lugs a big deal?

The biggest question is regarding the oil setup. The new engine was previously configured for inverted oil and has the associated fittings and modifications installed. I currently have what I believe is a homemade air-oil separator on my current engine in a half-inverted setup. Would converting the engine back to a normal oil pickup configuration and using just the separator be preferable to hunting down an inverted valve and just completing the inverted setup?

Anything else I'm failing to properly consider?
 
Parts

Alternator bracket is different. spruce catalog may have some helpful info. Starter mount should be the same. Prop bushings are easy. Some threaded rod and sockets and heavy washers to remove and install new. BIG issue is price of new bushings.
 
Alternator

Lots of photos and part numbers in spruce catalog. If you have a plane power now would be a good time to switch to B&C Spruce prices on this stuff are absurd.
 
Starter considerations

Another factor I am considering that I haven’t found an answer for through searching: I have an old heavy prestolite starter. I have read that 10:1 pistons can be tough on starters. Will my prestolite still be sufficient or will I need to lay down the cash for a newer high torque model?
 
Alternator bracket is different.

Attached is a photo of my current alternator mount. I’ve been looking through the parts catalogs and given the boss mount that wide deck engines have compared to my current case mount, I haven’t seen anything that’s quite equivalent. I see Vans sells a bracket (VA-151-2) for Nippon Denso alternators that may work but I’m not sure.

Given my current alternator is a Motorola, which seems to be rare among RV’s, I suspect I may have to fabricate a mount unless someone knows of an off-the-shelf part.
 

Attachments

  • 52E0EFF1-D8E9-407D-AB1F-FD479678F442.jpg
    52E0EFF1-D8E9-407D-AB1F-FD479678F442.jpg
    281.1 KB · Views: 85
Many years ago, my Citabria 7KCAB had plain rubber conical mounts, and we switched to a newer heavier-duty style of Lord conical mount. The results were well worth it. They probably didn't hurt our wallets comparatively as much as they will now, but I think you will be glad you changed. Sorry can't help with p/ns
 
Many years ago, my Citabria 7KCAB had plain rubber conical mounts, and we switched to a newer heavier-duty style of Lord conical mount. The results were well worth it. They probably didn't hurt our wallets comparatively as much as they will now, but I think you will be glad you changed. Sorry can't help with p/ns

Van’s sells Lord J-6230-1 as conical mount bushings for $198 a corner.
https://store.vansaircraft.com/conical-engine-vibration-isolator-ea-con-vibration-iso.html

Conversely, the OEM (either Lycoming or Superior) part is $15 a corner.
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/superior_08-11854.php

Does the Lord mount last significantly longer or is otherwise worth the $732 premium for a full set? The older posts I’ve found on the matter were written back when the Lord mounts were significantly cheaper comparatively.
 
Back
Top