Kitfoxbill
Active Member
Does any one have any tricks or suggestion on building the baggage door?
William Bennett
643WB reserved
Austin, TX
William Bennett
643WB reserved
Austin, TX
Van's Air Force
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Baggage Door
- Thread starter Kitfoxbill
- Start date
Composite baggage door
You might check out the baggage door at www.gamutservices.biz It seems to be pretty popular.
Bob Kelly
You might check out the baggage door at www.gamutservices.biz It seems to be pretty popular.
Bob Kelly
I guess my suggestion would be to build it the best you can and when it doesn't turn out to your standards, buy new parts and try again.
My second try turned out better but I wasn't completely satisfied. I ended up shrinking the door skin on the front and back to make it lay down better. I think it cost about $75 for all the parts for a second attempt. But that was around 1998 or 1999. This was one of the toughest parts of the -8 kit to do well. Good luck
Karl
My second try turned out better but I wasn't completely satisfied. I ended up shrinking the door skin on the front and back to make it lay down better. I think it cost about $75 for all the parts for a second attempt. But that was around 1998 or 1999. This was one of the toughest parts of the -8 kit to do well. Good luck
Karl
How I did it
Mine turned out fine the first time.
I think the trick is to make sure it is held firmly in position when you drill and rivet, from the inside of the fuselage.
I taped mine firmly in place (Duct tape or packing tape) and then strapped it down with ratcheting straps.
Once inside, make sure the ribs and inner door are correctly positioned and then drill and cleco. I used clear packing tape to hold everything in place. It's like having an extra set of hands.
In my opinion, it's better to do this after the top skin is riveted on. If you do it prior to riveting, you run the risk of the skin being pulled tighter and the baggage door may not match as well.
Using this method worked for me and should work for you, too.
Make sure you have the hinge installed as part of the assembly.
Good luck.
Mine turned out fine the first time.
I think the trick is to make sure it is held firmly in position when you drill and rivet, from the inside of the fuselage.
I taped mine firmly in place (Duct tape or packing tape) and then strapped it down with ratcheting straps.
Once inside, make sure the ribs and inner door are correctly positioned and then drill and cleco. I used clear packing tape to hold everything in place. It's like having an extra set of hands.
In my opinion, it's better to do this after the top skin is riveted on. If you do it prior to riveting, you run the risk of the skin being pulled tighter and the baggage door may not match as well.
Using this method worked for me and should work for you, too.
Make sure you have the hinge installed as part of the assembly.
Good luck.
The baggage door skin is pretty stiff - it's .032 as I recall. I had a heck of a time getting it to fit nicely regardless of all the tape, ratchet straps, etc. So I took mine, along with the ribs, down to the local aircraft sheet metal guy. I asked him to run it through his roller thingy and see if he could get the skin bent to match the ribs. He got it pretty close and that greatly facillitated the installation. Mine came out with a very nice fit on the first try. It sure seems like it would be east for Van's to run the baggage door through the same roller they use for the top skin.
Proseal
The key to the door is to make sure the shape when strapped/taped does not change when riveting.
I don't remember who first said it, but proseal worked for me. Once the door is shaped to best fit, strap it down. Then proseal the ribs on the door and let it set-up. I waited a week, since that fit my build schedule. Then rivet the rib on, do the same operation again with the bottom skin. My door shape did not change at all and fits great.
You could probably use epoxy or any other similar method.
Good luck.
The key to the door is to make sure the shape when strapped/taped does not change when riveting.
I don't remember who first said it, but proseal worked for me. Once the door is shaped to best fit, strap it down. Then proseal the ribs on the door and let it set-up. I waited a week, since that fit my build schedule. Then rivet the rib on, do the same operation again with the bottom skin. My door shape did not change at all and fits great.
You could probably use epoxy or any other similar method.
Good luck.
Kitfoxbill
Active Member
ordered parts for second door
After having the door straped down and aligned. I climed in and drilled and riviated. looed good But when i removed the door to rivit the top and bottom it know sits 1/4 up on the rear...who knows
William Bennett
643WB
Austin, TX
After having the door straped down and aligned. I climed in and drilled and riviated. looed good But when i removed the door to rivit the top and bottom it know sits 1/4 up on the rear...who knows
William Bennett
643WB
Austin, TX
FORGOT TO MENTION
Forgot to mention, that if you go the proseal/epoxy route, you only need to lightly set the rivets in the rib. You don't have to really pound them or get them perfectly spec, it is not going to go anthwere with the adhesive there.
Forgot to mention, that if you go the proseal/epoxy route, you only need to lightly set the rivets in the rib. You don't have to really pound them or get them perfectly spec, it is not going to go anthwere with the adhesive there.
