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Please don't do this

vic syracuse

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I'm trying to contain myself as I write this. We have an RV-10 in the shop that is having heading issues, along with some intermittents. Configuration is a G3X (non-touch).

Removing the PFD show's a real rat's nest of wiring behind it.

IMG_4317.jpeg


IMG_4318.jpeg


Finally found the ADAHRS after a lengthy search. It was high up on the bulkhead behind the instrument panel, above the VPX. It was mounted with one cable tie through the two top holes. Nothing else. No bolts at all. For those of you with a keen eye, yes there is a bolt now in the lower-left corner, as I finally remembered to take a picture after we started installing bolts.

Personally, I think this kind of workmanship borders on criminal. Especially when compensation is involved.

This was an RV-10 where there was compensation involved in the building process. I will leave it at that. It's now on its second owners, who are airline captains and fly it IFR.

Suffice it to say that if you don't know what you are doing, then don't do it. Somebody is going to get hurt.

End of vent.

Vic
 
when I began wiring my aircraft I thought this will only take 4 weeks. I finished the wiring at month 5. do not underestimate the wiring effort and develop a method that allows you to keep it tidy. I immediately learned not to cut the wires to final length because the routing may change. the nice thing is that I have not needed to touch the wiring since because of a wiring problem. do it properly the first time and you only have to do it once.
 
Just F'ing WOW is all I can say..............I would be asking for some of that money back for sure !!
 
I'm trying to contain myself as I write this. We have an RV-10 in the shop that is having heading issues, along with some intermittents. Configuration is a G3X (non-touch).

Removing the PFD show's a real rat's nest of wiring behind it.

IMG_4317.jpeg


IMG_4318.jpeg


Finally found the ADAHRS after a lengthy search. It was high up on the bulkhead behind the instrument panel, above the VPX. It was mounted with one cable tie through the two top holes. Nothing else. No bolts at all. For those of you with a keen eye, yes there is a bolt now in the lower-left corner, as I finally remembered to take a picture after we started installing bolts.

Personally, I think this kind of workmanship borders on criminal. Especially when compensation is involved.

This was an RV-10 where there was compensation involved in the building process. I will leave it at that. It's now on its second owners, who are airline captains and fly it IFR.

Suffice it to say that if you don't know what you are doing, then don't do it. Somebody is going to get hurt.

End of vent.

Vic

I’d be willing to bet this came out of a shop in FL.
 
I have seen some rats nest before but holly smokes dick Tracy. Surprised there wasn’t a fire.
 
before/after

It would be interesting to see the "after" pictures once you have it tidied up, assuming it is not going to leave the shop if it is not right.

I can see that some of the wiring has been bundled and laced in the "before" pictures, so there was some attempt at order, but for some reason that was not continued through for the whole job. I wonder if two or more people worked on it, it looks like different hands did e.g. all those red wires, we'll never know.
 
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Sweet baby Jesus...

Thanks for posting Vic. Not going to lie, when I see your name under a thread name like "Please don't do this" I get a little excited to see the train wreck pictures that will be contained within.

Also great to see examples of how not to do things.
 
This is prime example of why builders need to do their own work.

I've heard all the "I don't understand wires" excuses to last me a lifetime. If you can build an airplane you can wire it. We are not building some 1960 analog monster, we now have things like networks and serial ports that make life much easier. Now overlay the knowledge learned in the process to maintain your avionics install, and to plan and do the inevitable panel upgrades over the years and the value of doing this yourself becomes evident.

Shoot fire - if you really can't bring yourself to do this then find a local builder to help you get over the hump.

Stepping off my soapbox...

Carl
 
There is just flat-out no excuse for this lack of workmanship. And there's really no excuse for an owner accepting it.

I've seen grade-schoolers do a neater job on their science fair projects...who on earth thinks that this is acceptable for an *aircraft*?

It doesn't have to comply with the NASA wiring spec, but it ought to at least *appear* to have been done with some care and thought...this is atrocious.
 
There is just flat-out no excuse for this lack of workmanship. And there's really no excuse for an owner accepting it.

The thing is, the owner doesn’t know until they encounter a problem. There’s no reason to suspect this mess when you pick up your airplane and everything works. When things stop working, that’s when you go digging.
 
I got a call about looking at a certified airplane that had an intermittent coms problem.

It appeared the previous owner had problems with VOX on his panel mounted intercom and his hearing aids. So, he rigged up some kind of "fix".

5 lbs wiring removed, and a new card edge connector for the ancient Narco radio, and problems solved.

Vic, your picture above looks worse than that did!
 
This is prime example of why builders need to do their own work.

I've heard all the "I don't understand wires" excuses to last me a lifetime. If you can build an airplane you can wire it. We are not building some 1960 analog monster, we now have things like networks and serial ports that make life much easier.

Stepping off my soapbox...

Carl

I disagree with the above, that looks pretty normal for a lot of the RV world and like most of the wire jobs I rip out and start over with.

Can someone learn how to do it correctly, yes but most don't have the resources (time, teacher, tools mostly) to get it right.
I see lots of good airframes as most people can be taught to rivet pretty quickly, but it take a special dedication to learn the art of wiring correctly and a pretty decent investment in time, tools and materials to do the job right. And if you don't have a mentor you'll probably end up with a mess.
 
I disagree with the above, that looks pretty normal for a lot of the RV world and like most of the wire jobs I rip out and start over with.

Can someone learn how to do it correctly, yes but most don't have the resources (time, teacher, tools mostly) to know how to do it right.
I see lots of good airframes as most people can be taught to rivet pretty quickly, but it take a special dedication to learn the art of wiring correctly and a pretty decent investment in time, tools and materials to do the job right.

If anyone in the Arlington, WA (AWO) area would like some "coaching" on good wiring practices, let me know. I'm a retired Navy avionics line tech, former ATS mod-line avionics tech, and occasional avionics guy for a couple of A&P types in the local area.

I'm not interested in doing it for you. But, I'll help you get going in the right direction. And, I've got the correct tooling.
 
I did my own wiring - after the EAA course - and despite my best attempts at staying organized, it is still messier than I'd hoped. Still looks fantastic compared to this one. Zip ties to mount the one item that needs to be accurately and rigidly located is unthinkable.

I'm working on a large upgrade this month, adding NAV and second COMM, with antennas, a control head for those, an audio panel, a GPS 175 IFR navigator and changing my ignition from an ACS key to switches and push button. The big thing I am doing differently is building proper harnesses outside of the plane so that things aren't just thrown together. This job will be done right, my first harness is done and looks amazing. For "professionals" to come up with the mess you show here is just awful, an amateur with a bit of training, the right tools and a plan can do work that makes this look just like the pile of spaghetti that it is.
 
Maybe we should have a "show us your wiring" section.... I did mine myself
 

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I got a chuckle out of this one.

You all are spoiled!!

That wiring looks clean compared to most of the old airplanes I work on.

There's a straight shot at most of it thru a big hole while sitting on a comfy seat. Try spending a couple of DAYS where you can't reach up with both arms at the same time, laying on your side while wheel wells, rudder pedals, cables, controls, scat hoses, etc. are in the way and having old fiberglass insulation fibers falling in your eyes. Simultaneously trying to figure out how to make your arms 2ft longer and articulate in any direction. Sometimes it can actually can be a good workout.

I rewired most of a flying tipup RV-6 last year, was a piece of cake.
 
It looks like these pictures would be a great advertisement for using companies like Steinair, Aerotronics and Experimental Aircraft Services. At least with them you get professional workmanship, good schematics/layout diagrams and wire/plug markings for how it is wired. If you’re going to get a “professional panel” use a professional shop.
 
It looks like these pictures would be a great advertisement for using companies like Steinair, Aerotronics and Experimental Aircraft Services. At least with them you get professional workmanship, good schematics/layout diagrams and wire/plug markings for how it is wired. If you’re going to get a “professional panel” use a professional shop.

And yet, this reportedly came from a “professional shop”.

I’ve seen work like this before and it’s probably from the same shop several have already alluded to. But folks continue to patronize this facility and sing their praises.
 
It will buff right out

I got a chuckle out of this one.

You all are spoiled!!

That wiring looks clean compared to most of the old airplanes I work on.

I rewired most of a flying tipup RV-6 last year, was a piece of cake.

Bob is right. Compared to a lot of the certified fleet that might have had a loran removed and a few auto pilots and other avionics changed over the years, it will buff right out by comparison.:D

Sure am glad it is not mine though.
 
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I'm guessing that the laced and sleeved, labeled, and solder-sleeved elements were pre-made harnesses. Then the build in-place rat's nest was piled on that.
So, there is some goodness under that mess.

I keep a hank of the old wiring harness I took out of my 6 during the re-build as a reminder.... "Walmart butt-splice city".
 
service loops

One of the things I struggled with that seems to relate to the rat's nest in the OP picture is service loops. It would be nice to have a service loop in the wire bundle to each device that is long enough to allow that device to come out of the panel far enough to remove the connector from the back. Or to remove the panel far enough away to access and disconnect connections on the back. But then you have these loops of wire bundles, and they need to be tied down to something to keep them from falling or wiggling around, fatiguing crimps or solder joints. But if you tie a service loop up well, then it can't possibly do its function of providing enough slack to remove the device and disconnect it. So you have to crawl under the panel to undo those ties. Might as well just undo the connector from the device.

In the end, I routed wire bundles for multiple devices together into bigger bundles with a disconnect in each of those big bundles. Those bundles do not have service loops. The wires in each bundle are routed neatly to a common point, assembled into the bundle, and then straight across to the panel with the disconnect plug in it. So I can crawl under the panel and undo 5 big plugs and the panel can then be completely removed. Takes about 10 minutes to take the whole panel out.

I know this is not the "right" way, and I do wish I had service loops, but I just could not figure out how to tie up all that wire in a way that would be useful, and still secure.

If you look at the picture in post #16, the wires are routed neatly, but I don't see any service loops that would permit removal of a device without first accessing it from the back. Perhaps in this airplane there is easy access to the back?
 
Interconnection Board

The wiring in my 'other' (non RV) EAB aircraft, which was built by an electronics engineer (not me), has all instrument and avionics electrical connections via a custom interconnect board that is mounted on the firewall behind the panel. Instead of traditional point-point wiring, there is instead a harness for each instrument or device or switch sub-panel to the interconnect board. Any item can be removed simply by unplugging the harness from the interconnect board and pulling it out. This does away with the need for service loops and makes for a much tidier wiring installation overall.

I think that the LSA RV-12 may be wired this way, i.e. via a central interconnection hub module.

This concept seems to work quite well in practice, there are however a couple of constraints. Firstly, the whole installation needs to be fully detailed before constructing the interconnection PCB, and then any significant future panel changes will be restricted by the interconnection board layout. And you need to know how to design and order manufacturing of a PCB and then solder the header pins and components onto the PCB.

Picture of a spare interconnection board attached for interest. I am considering doing the wiring for my RV-6A this way when I get to that stage, probably using a breadboard type PCB.
 

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If not neat, is it still airworthy?

No one has mentioned the real issues. Does it use aircraft quality wire, connectors, switches, hardware, etc? How good are the wire crimps? How good is any soldering? Are wires labeled?

Neatness is great but does not alone make it high quality. Maybe like a good paint job does not mean good build quality. Now from the few pictures Vic posted I would definitely check all wire connectors as that level of “messy” is probably a telling sign of poor workmanship.

Over the years, with minor panel changes, my wiring is becoming a bit “messy”. Not like these pictures but definitely no longer are there nice wire bundles. Actually (beware I am now rationalizing) I like a bit of non-big wire bundles over time as it can helps with minor panel upgrades as long as everything is marked. Next year as my first retirement project I am planning a major panel upgrade and at that point I will get the wiring back to a level of neatness.

Bottom line you don’t need perfect wire bundles. minor panel upgrades over time lead to some level of messy but ensuring use of proper wiring parts and quality crimps, solders, and attachment are key to ensure airworthiness and a trouble free electrical system.
 
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Which shop did this work?

Several posters have mentioned knowing the shop that did this work, but are reluctant to name them. If you did, you'd help others avoid a hack job like this.

My $0.02.

Dave
 
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Sorry, not here to point out any person or shops. I share findings so all of you have examples of where to look when inspecting or building your airplane, just like in my books. In reality, we all make mistakes when learning a new skill, such as building or wiring airplanes. Anyone who claims they don't is just fooling themself.

Taking compensation for it is where I think it is morally wrong when done like this one. That's why I've always recommended that you do a thorough prebuy even on NEW airplanes that you have paid someone to build/wire for you. It should be done by a non-interested third party.

There are also plenty of resources out there today, from books (like Marc Ausman's, which would be a perfect resource in this case), to technical counselors.

Back to this one...

As for having quality wiring but just not tidy, no that is not the case here. I mentioned the intermittents. None of the wiring is supported or bundled coming off of the switches. Those 3 cable ties are my start at attempting to clean things up and support the wiring. Wires have been breaking off of the switches, forcing the owners to go into the VPX control panel to turn things on and off. Nice to have that option, but clearly adds to the flying task load.

Vic
 
Several posters have mentioned knowing the shop that did this work, but are reluctant to name them. If you did, you'd help others avoid a hack job like this.

My $0.02.

Dave

I submit that only the OP knows for sure where this work was done on the airplane that is pictured. The rest of us would be just speculating.

If anyone did name the shop, they run the risk of running afoul of DR's rules - since it's possible that this shop is an advertiser on VAF. That might be considered vendor bashing.

I do agree that many of us rely on word-of-mouth for decisions on where to have work done and that knowing would be beneficial.

When one group considers you a saint, it's hard to convince people otherwise - but these pictures are pretty telling in my view. I'd be embarrassed if I had done work like that, even though I'm just a novice. I'd be beyond mad if I'd paid a "pro" shop to do this.
 
That looks soooooo familiar Vic !

I was asked to put an autopilot into a teenage RV8 about a year ago. Not a problem thought I. Got all the bits and pieces from Dynon to add onto the D100 etc and started by taking out the panel........:(

Looked remarkably similar, there was residual upgrade wiring, a lone D-Sub socket not connected, a switch... :confused: no labelling and no room.

Suggested a fresh start.

Ended up taking everything out and started with a clean sheet helped by my buddy Matt.

Took a lot of profanity to sort, but we did it and as per Dynon's instructions, worked first flight - perfectly.

I think the best piece of advice I can give to builders is this.

Work with the suppliers, the wirers, the panel designers. Talk to Advanced, to Approach Systems, to Stein. Modern integrated wiring systems and hubs mean that install and importantly, post install inspection and maintenance becomes easy. The installs we did in the 12's were a joy. A Vans supplied hub, plug, plug, plug, switch on.... Oooooooooo:D
 
Steve, on the RV14 (#16) it is super easy to get behind the instrumentation panel. I have service loops for a couple of things but for the switches there is no need. My GTN650 and GMA245 have about a foot of bundled cable that can come out of the panel with the tray. Same for the remote items. If anyone wants more pictures of my wiring I'm happy to provide. I really enjoyed the wiring part of the project.
 
One of the things I struggled with that seems to relate to the rat's nest in the OP picture is service loops. It would be nice to have a service loop in the wire bundle to each device that is long enough to allow that device to come out of the panel far enough to remove the connector from the back. Or to remove the panel far enough away to access and disconnect connections on the back. But then you have these loops of wire bundles, and they need to be tied down to something to keep them from falling or wiggling around, fatiguing crimps or solder joints. But if you tie a service loop up well, then it can't possibly do its function of providing enough slack to remove the device and disconnect it. So you have to crawl under the panel to undo those ties. Might as well just undo the connector from the device.

In the end, I routed wire bundles for multiple devices together into bigger bundles with a disconnect in each of those big bundles. Those bundles do not have service loops. The wires in each bundle are routed neatly to a common point, assembled into the bundle, and then straight across to the panel with the disconnect plug in it. So I can crawl under the panel and undo 5 big plugs and the panel can then be completely removed. Takes about 10 minutes to take the whole panel out.

I know this is not the "right" way, and I do wish I had service loops, but I just could not figure out how to tie up all that wire in a way that would be useful, and still secure.

If you look at the picture in post #16, the wires are routed neatly, but I don't see any service loops that would permit removal of a device without first accessing it from the back. Perhaps in this airplane there is easy access to the back?

and then you can make an umbilical cord to connect to the big cannon plugs and operate your entire panel remotely (except for engine monitor in this case). just be careful not to start the aircraft in this condition... I pulled the spark plugs just in case. this is for ADSB transponder upgrade.

IMG_20190615_144939.jpg


printed mount for ADSB L3 wireless module. you can even test your wifi tablet connection in this condition. this photo is before final wiring cleanup and wrapping with spiral wound.

IMG_20190528_184942.jpg
 
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It's the classic menu:

Fast
Cheap
Good

Pick any two.

How about some inspirational photos? These from the Garmin display at OSH a few years ago:

Garmin1.jpg


Garmin2.jpg


The recent "wiring hub" approach to avionics is can be good, but they don't typically cover airframe wiring. Let's not forget a classic approach, the trusty junction block, which can be used for interfaces of all kinds.

Junction%20Block.jpg


Junction%20Block%20Diagram.jpg


Quick note on the above. I have a preference for high quality bare terminals and seal-sealing adhesive heat shrink. They are bulletproof, as the wire crimp can be inspected prior to cover, and adhesive heat shrink provides better strain relief than a classic amp terminal. However, they are slow to fabricate and I would not expect a pro shop to do them unless you are clearly willing to pay the resulting labor bill. That inconvenient truth doesn't apply if you are wiring your own...and like me, you enjoy it.

It's all a learning process. Here's the RV-8 in the shop back around 2008. I was still using quality zip ties then. I've since switched to waxed tie cord for most harness work, using cheap ties for initial organization, then cutting them off the finished product. That's not to say tie wraps have no place in the airplane, but to keep the cheap ties separate from the good ones in the shop, be sure to buy them buy them by color...white cheapies and black good.

P7010001.JPG
 
I got a chuckle out of this one.

You all are spoiled!!

That wiring looks clean compared to most of the old airplanes I work on.

There's a straight shot at most of it thru a big hole while sitting on a comfy seat. Try spending a couple of DAYS where you can't reach up with both arms at the same time, laying on your side while wheel wells, rudder pedals, cables, controls, scat hoses, etc. are in the way and having old fiberglass insulation fibers falling in your eyes. Simultaneously trying to figure out how to make your arms 2ft longer and articulate in any direction. Sometimes it can actually can be a good workout.

I rewired most of a flying tipup RV-6 last year, was a piece of cake.

I feel for this. The wiring on my 6A fwd of the sub-panel was very nice and tidy at first flight. However, I did a complete upgrade of the entire panel, including a second radio and custom audio panel. While the wiring aft of the sub-panel is very nice and tidy, I will admit that the area fwd of the sub-panel is not as nice. Certainly not like these pictures, but after a week, in a midwest winter, of laying on my back with cuts on both of my ears, the priorities started to change. Yes it generally organized and supported with no loose wires floating around, but doesn't look like it did when I wired with the top skin missing. In hindsight, I should have pulled everything fwd to a point aft of the sub-panel and used connectors there. I learned my lesson and did that with my 10. Anything fwd of the sub-panel is terminated aft of that panel, where it is generally easy to work with in an upright position.

I now understand why a lot of the production aircraft have a hornets nest behind the panel. Frustration and discomfort gets the better of many of us.

Larry
 
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I don't usually take pics behind the panel but I I'll start doing it to showcase my work.
Here's a couple pics I sent to the customer so he could see what lay behind the screens.

IMG_0571-L.jpg


IMG_0569-L.jpg
 
I don't usually take pics behind the panel but I I'll start doing it to showcase my work.
Here's a couple pics I sent to the customer so he could see what lay behind the screens.

IMG_0571-L.jpg


IMG_0569-L.jpg

I didn’t build my RV; I bought it, and in my opinion the wiring job done by the builder was very neat and effective. That said, when it came back from Walt’s shop, the result was top notch. The peace of mind is easily worth the labor cost, and the end product is beautiful, and functional. I’m mid-condition inspection now, and the organization makes maintenance a breeze.
 
I don't usually take pics behind the panel but I I'll start doing it to showcase my work.
Here's a couple pics I sent to the customer so he could see what lay behind the screens.

Folks, that's what pro work should look like.

Walt, where are you sourcing those panel labels?
 
The thing is, the owner doesn’t know until they encounter a problem. There’s no reason to suspect this mess when you pick up your airplane and everything works. When things stop working, that’s when you go digging.

If they got "builder assistance" and built it, they should. And if they bought it, they should crawl around under the panel, open access panels, etc., and find it.
 
If you are considering buying a pre-flown RV with any of the glass cockpit systems, especially if you intend to fly IFR, it is SO EASY to ask the seller to take out a few screws and pull out one of the EFIS displays so you can check how the wiring looks. If it's a rat's nest, walk away. If there isn't enough service loop to get the display out enough to undo the connector, that's a major red flag. If it's neat, that's a great start. You don't even have to crawl under the panel.
 
In the end, I routed wire bundles for multiple devices together into bigger bundles with a disconnect in each of those big bundles. Those bundles do not have service loops. The wires in each bundle are routed neatly to a common point, assembled into the bundle, and then straight across to the panel with the disconnect plug in it. So I can crawl under the panel and undo 5 big plugs and the panel can then be completely removed. Takes about 10 minutes to take the whole panel out.

This was exactly my philosophy when putting together my panel .. one common connector area for all electrical connections to the panel environment. It takes easily less than 10 mins to pull the panel .. pull 5 connectors and the pitot/static lines and air vent tubes, uncrew, and lift!

20180304_154044-M.jpg
 
Garmin sample panel

The thing i dont like about the wiring on the Garmin’s demo panels are the unsupported connectors. Heavy Connectors should never be left dangling on reL aircraft.
 
The thing i dont like about the wiring on the Garmin’s demo panels are the unsupported connectors. Heavy Connectors should never be left dangling on reL aircraft.

Thanks for bringing this up! I know people like to look at the back of Garmin sales kiosks at Oshkosh to see how the "pro's" do it... but they are designed to be a static display only. They are pretty, but not necessarily the right thing to do in an airplane, because of vibration, grounding, etc. Some of them are also designed to come apart for transportation.

Also, the connector idea above is cool, but use caution doing this if you have a CAN bus. Ideally, you wouldn't have any connectors in a CAN bus backbone, but sometimes they are necessary. If you do this, make sure you connect the shields together through the connector and try to minimize the amount of unshielded CAN bus wire going into it.
 
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Thanks, Vic

My guess is that the original builder didn't even provide an electrical system diagram for that RV-10's wiring mess.

Once, I helped someone install a new EFIS in his airplane...and when I saw the rats nest of spaghetti under the panel with exposed wires wrapped around flight control push rods, we wound up ripping out EVERYTHING and starting over. Think about it... Are you going to trust your life to that wiring while shooting an IFR RNAV to minimums on an approach with your family?

Here's a good tip: SteinAir.com provides an EXCELLENT service for about $500 that gives you a large-scale printout of your avionics wiring diagram. Just tell him what components you have (EFIS, transponder, radios, nav equipment, servos, AHARS, etc) and he'll mail you a professionally designed, pin-for-pin wiring diagram customized for your airplane that will make your wiring decisions easy.

Neatness pays off. When you install or modify your own avionics devices, it's very satisfying to see it work perfectly the FIRST time you flip the switch.
 
Can I assume this will be posted in the first update to your book on what to look for in a pre-buy inspection?
BTW, I really enjoyed reading the book!
 
Here's a good tip: SteinAir.com provides an EXCELLENT service for about $500 that gives you a large-scale printout of your avionics wiring diagram. Just tell him what components you have (EFIS, transponder, radios, nav equipment, servos, AHARS, etc) and he'll mail you a professionally designed, pin-for-pin wiring diagram customized for your airplane that will make your wiring decisions easy.

Wow, I didn't know that. I think that would easily be worth the money. I want to build and wire my own panel but I have been dreading doing the wiring diagrams. I look at some of the really nice panels our controls engineers design where I work and despair of being able to do that kind of high quality work (at least without spending at least a month solid on things like selecting a wire numbering scheme, color coding, drawing symbol list, etc., etc.

I have gone through several sets of drawing packages for our chemical process plants trying to figure out how to do it (I'm a ChE and can do some controls programming, but I leave the nice electrical detail work to the EEs) and just really would like to build it rather than draw it. I have the proper software to do it, but the time!
 
Wow, I didn't know that. I think that would easily be worth the money. I want to build and wire my own panel but I have been dreading doing the wiring diagrams. I look at some of the really nice panels our controls engineers design where I work and despair of being able to do that kind of high quality work (at least without spending at least a month solid on things like selecting a wire numbering scheme, color coding, drawing symbol list, etc., etc.
SteinAir does great work, but be sure to know where exactly you want to put your boxes and how long the runs between them should be. I gave them some approximate numbers (bad planning on my part), and it was quite annoying to properly route everything later. Also check the harness before putting it in. It didn't take as long as I had thought it would, and I found an error that would be quite annoying to figure out when everything is installed and bolted in place.
 
Wiring line list data

The electrical wiring 'diagram' that came with my airplane is not a traditional line drawing. It is actually an Excel spreadsheet with a full listing of every line and where it goes 'from' and 'to'. Each 'from' and 'to' connection is simply the plug/switch/connector name and pin number. While I do know how to read and follow lines on an electrical schematic, I've found this Excel database approach to be much easier and flexible and I'm convinced that this is the way to go in the digital age.
And I'm really grateful that the previous owner/builder provided such good documentation, apart from making electrical maintenance much easier, I have also learned a lot from it that I can apply to my RV project!
 
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