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Sorry the other wing not fit thread is corrupted some how...

JwWright57

Well Known Member
hey folks - i'm fitting my wings into the fuse for the first time and can't get the dam thing to go in all the way. The bushings are off maybe a 1/4-3/16 inch. Nothing seems to be binding. I'm really puzzled. I measured the stub spars and the depth (marked a line on the stub spars) and they are going in all the way. I had to trim some of the bottom skin (initially there was no gap there). But that didnt fix it. I'm really reluctant to take a file to the stub pars but don't know what else I could do.

Any insights are most welcome....
 
I?m in Greenville, SC, so not too far away, but I had the same issue. Am fortunate to have an RV-12 builder in our EAA chapter. He took a look and, like you, I was reluctant to trim my spars, but that was my issue. I started with a file, and after several more unsuccessful attempts, ended up moving to a Dremel. They finally seated. At least that was my experience. I couldn?t tell you how much I removed, just kept removing a little at a time. And there?s another thread on this subject warning NOT to remove material from the top or bottom of the spar stubs - just from the ends. So, take my experience, for what it?s worth.
 
I would be very cautious jumping to removing material from the spar stubs if the insertion mismatch is really as much as 1/4".

There is no way that they should be able to cause that much of a mismatch.
 
My first try I had the rollers in backwards or reversed - I don't remember exactly. That produced an effect similar to what I think you're seeing. Check your roller installation to make sure they're oriented correctly.
 
I'm sure Van's uses CAD for design and direct-to-CNC for manufacturing. I doubt parts are out of design tolerance.
 
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+1 for Scott's word of caution... dangerous territory without an understanding of how the profile changes when even small amounts of material are removed from the stubs. Discounting your statement of verification that the spar stubs are fully seated and using only your statement that wing skin interference is no longer an issue, I suggest that you next verify that the wing connectors (ES-00077 and mate) are correctly installed; paying close attention that the correct connectors are installed on each wing, each mating side of the fuselage, and that each pair mates properly. Mismatched wing connectors will generally hold the wing out a bit more than 1/4" but it's worth checking.

Have a great day!
 
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Built two

Both needed a good dose of Mr Vixen to fit.

The fore and aft stubs are well made and just need some coaxing to make them snug.

Slide it on, use witness tape, paper, whatever to see where it needs easing and reduce the stubs accordingly.

I guess there is variance in the manufacture.
 
That does seem to be a lot for mismatch. I had to trim about 1/8? of the wing skin, but it was obvious what the interference was. There are profile measuring tools that are a line of stacked pins that slide. You could eliminate the stub spar interference as an issue by probing the socket with one. They are used to measure molding contours when woodworking and can be found at Home Depot or Harbor Freight. Being a gadget freak I picked one up years ago when it caught my eye. It has come in handy every now and then.
 
hey folks - i'm fitting my wings into the fuse for the first time and can't get the dam thing to go in all the way. The bushings are off maybe a 1/4-3/16 inch. Nothing seems to be binding. I'm really puzzled. I measured the stub spars and the depth (marked a line on the stub spars) and they are going in all the way. I had to trim some of the bottom skin (initially there was no gap there). But that didnt fix it. I'm really reluctant to take a file to the stub pars but don't know what else I could do.

Any insights are most welcome....

Jeff... Did you try winching the spars together and did you check the wing electrical connectors for interference?

Fuselage Skin Interference: Check to see if any rivet heads are hitting the wing opening in the fuselage. I had to widen the openings.

Winch: I used rubber footed clamps and a ratcheting tie down to pull the spars together the first time. Never needed to use this technique the second time.

Lubrication: I used lithium grease on the pins.

Wing Support: The pins passed through 7 of the 8 bushings with hand pressure with a second person holding the wing up at the proper height. If you are doing this alone, a padded saw horse can be used to support the wing while you push in the pins.

Inertia Hammer: With only a mm at most of offset, a gentle tap with a three pound inertial hammer is used to seat the final pin/bushing.

I have now removed and replaced the wings several times using a saw horse and an inertia hammer as I drilled out the torque tubes. Flaperons now working!

Hope that helps,
Jeff
 
Sailplane guys (Van flies sailplanes) would have something to say about using an "inertia hammer" to seat the spar overlap locking pins.
 
Jeff... Did you try winching the spars together and did you check the wing electrical connectors for interference?

Fuselage Skin Interference: Check to see if any rivet heads are hitting the wing opening in the fuselage. I had to widen the openings.

Winch: I used rubber footed clamps and a ratcheting tie down to pull the spars together the first time. Never needed to use this technique the second time.

Lubrication: I used lithium grease on the pins.

Wing Support: The pins passed through 7 of the 8 bushings with hand pressure with a second person holding the wing up at the proper height. If you are doing this alone, a padded saw horse can be used to support the wing while you push in the pins.

Inertia Hammer: With only a mm at most of offset, a gentle tap with a three pound inertial hammer is used to seat the final pin/bushing.

I have now removed and replaced the wings several times using a saw horse and an inertia hammer as I drilled out the torque tubes. Flaperons now working!

Hope that helps,
Jeff

I don't have the wing wiring point installed in the fuse yet so i'm good with clearance there. The ratchet straps are a good idea. At this point i'm going to try again and take lots of pictures so I can share what i'm seeing. I'm also going to create a cardboard template for the real spar stub and see where it lines up on the fuse skins
 
Sailplane guys (Van flies sailplanes) would have something to say about using an "inertia hammer" to seat the spar overlap locking pins.

I called Vans and they told me to use an inertia hammer. Local long time RV builder recommended using an inertia hammer. Not sure what you are trying to say here.

Jeff
 
I had problems fitting the wings first time. In my case the little plastic blocks above the spars were interfering slightly. Loosened the bolts and all was good. I took to the blocks with a scotchbrite wheel carefully and that solved the issue. Don't have a part number handy. The blocks are about half an inch square, with 2bolts through them. Might be worth a look.
Cheers, DaveH
120485
 
me too: wing wouldn't fit: took very little off inside and outside top insert. Still off ?" because of one white block being too thick. Took a Scotchbrite and the wing fitted.
First attempt with a ratchet: what a good advice that was! This forum really helps me build the plane.
Never got the wings in together thought (only building once a week ;-), that's the next thing.
 
hey folks - i'm fitting my wings into the fuse for the first time and can't get the dam thing to go in all the way. The bushings are off maybe a 1/4-3/16 inch. Nothing seems to be binding. I'm really puzzled. I measured the stub spars and the depth (marked a line on the stub spars) and they are going in all the way. I had to trim some of the bottom skin (initially there was no gap there). But that didnt fix it. I'm really reluctant to take a file to the stub pars but don't know what else I could do.

Any insights are most welcome....

Hi all a quick update. I've tried everything I can think of with the left wing (trimmed the bottom skin a tad, took the plastic stop block down maybe a 1/6th and as a last resort took the aft stub spar down maybe a 32nd, it seemed to be bottoming out before the front one.) I've tried ratchet straps (really tight), pushing, rocking the **** thing and it's still way to far off. I don't know how but I must have screwed something up, but I have no idea what. Everything I measure and double checked seems fine the Fing thing is just not going in far enough. Ironically the right wing fits like a champ with almost no effort (pins slide right in).

I sent an email to vans and will wait to see what they say.
 
Someone in a long-ago thread suggesting using a muffler pipe expander to align the spar bushings. For what it?s worth?

 
Hi all a quick update. I've tried everything I can think of with the left wing (trimmed the bottom skin a tad, took the plastic stop block down maybe a 1/6th and as a last resort took the aft stub spar down maybe a 32nd, it seemed to be bottoming out before the front one.) I've tried ratchet straps (really tight), pushing, rocking the **** thing and it's still way to far off. I don't know how but I must have screwed something up, but I have no idea what. Everything I measure and double checked seems fine the Fing thing is just not going in far enough. Ironically the right wing fits like a champ with almost no effort (pins slide right in).

I sent an email to vans and will wait to see what they say.

Is it still off by 1/4" - 3/16"? If so, the exhaust expander probably won't help. I use it for just the final minor line up of everything.
 
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Does the trailing edge of the wing properly engage in the flaperon torque tube?
 
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I don?t think the flaperon torque tubes are installed yet...

Is there any possibility that the rear spar socket bracket is installed upside down? The flat on the bracket is supposed to be towards the top. Maybe compare it with the other side that?s working ok?
 
I don?t think the flaperon torque tubes are installed yet...

Is there any possibility that the rear spar socket bracket is installed upside down? The flat on the bracket is supposed to be towards the top. Maybe compare it with the other side that?s working ok?

I know the front one is good because you can see the top orientation looking in the slot. Cant tell about the rear. Im tempted to remove the rear spar cap slot i can probably get to it from the rear lightening holes. And see if that isolates the problem. Lol but of course i probably dont have the correct long rivets to reinstall it.
 
I know the front one is good because you can see the top orientation looking in the slot. Cant tell about the rear. Im tempted to remove the rear spar cap slot i can probably get to it from the rear lightening holes. And see if that isolates the problem. Lol but of course i probably dont have the correct long rivets to reinstall it.

Without wings... do pins insert through both front and rear bushings? This should tell if bushings are installed correctly, I assume...
 
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