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  #101  
Old 05-27-2020, 06:51 PM
xblueh2o xblueh2o is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 869
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If your gear is steel it is factory gear.
If it is aluminum square section or airfoil shaped it is (was) grove gear. It wasn't an option to order from Van's, you just bought a different set of gear from Grove. I think Grove stopped producing the airfoil shaped gear a few years ago but I thought the still made the square gear. Could be wrong though.

There is a new company producing the airfoil shaped gear. Somebody chime in here because the name escapes me.
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RV-8 with the Showplanes Fastback conversion
Emp completed except for glass work
Wings completed except for bottom skin and glass work
Fuselage underway
N18451 reserved
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  #102  
Old 05-27-2020, 06:53 PM
D Weisgerber's Avatar
D Weisgerber D Weisgerber is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Ionia Michigan
Posts: 331
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Sky Designs is making the aluminum airfoil shaped gear now. I am planning on using them on my RV8 build.
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  #103  
Old 05-27-2020, 06:59 PM
Pilot135pd's Avatar
Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Vaca Moo Airport - TA37 in East TEXAS
Posts: 1,640
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xblueh2o View Post
If your gear is steel it is factory gear.
If it is aluminum square section or airfoil shaped it is (was) grove gear.
Heading out to the hangar to grab a magnet....
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Sadly sold my RV-8 however still trying to enjoy life by living on my airport with FREE campsites & facilities for ALL visiting pilots to enjoy www.facebook.com/VacaMooAirport/ & flying my OnSpeed equipped C-177 while waiting for the RV15 !

Exempt by 3 out of the 10 ways but I still donated.
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  #104  
Old 05-27-2020, 07:03 PM
xblueh2o xblueh2o is offline
 
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Location: SF East Bay
Posts: 869
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Easier test. If you threw your back out or felt the twinge of a hernia when lifting the gear out of the box, it is factory gear. I kid, but that is the reason for the Grove aluminum gear. It was something like 13 pounds lighter.
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RV-8 with the Showplanes Fastback conversion
Emp completed except for glass work
Wings completed except for bottom skin and glass work
Fuselage underway
N18451 reserved
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  #105  
Old 05-27-2020, 07:07 PM
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Pilot135pd Pilot135pd is offline
 
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Location: Vaca Moo Airport - TA37 in East TEXAS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xblueh2o View Post
Easier test. If you threw your back out or felt the twinge of a hernia when lifting the gear out of the box, it is factory gear. I kid, but that is the reason for the Grove aluminum gear. It was something like 13 pounds lighter.
I didn’t build it but the magnet still clinging from it says it’s steel. Thank God for one thing turning out right, it’s been one of those days you can’t wait for it to be over, but I’m breathing and healthy so I won’t complain.
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Sadly sold my RV-8 however still trying to enjoy life by living on my airport with FREE campsites & facilities for ALL visiting pilots to enjoy www.facebook.com/VacaMooAirport/ & flying my OnSpeed equipped C-177 while waiting for the RV15 !

Exempt by 3 out of the 10 ways but I still donated.
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  #106  
Old 11-07-2020, 03:41 PM
Northernliving Northernliving is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 665
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I check the torque on my -8 landing gear each time I change the oil. It's really one of my least favorite jobs. I'm tempted to reinstall the bolts from the top like other have done (with anti-rotation tabs) so I can check the torque from the bottom. At that time, I'll install new bolts/nuts. I'm planning on the NAS6606-36 bolts (I have Grove gear) and the NAS1804-6 nuts. While looking for some some of the 1804's, I stumbled on an H20-6 (also a 3/8x24 12 point rated at 220,000).
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?Product=H20

The H20's measure .45in in length, compared to the .37in for the NAS1804's. I like the idea of more thread length. Has anyone used the H20's and are the specs comparable?

Brian
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  #107  
Old 11-07-2020, 04:35 PM
scsmith scsmith is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ashland, OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northernliving View Post
I check the torque on my -8 landing gear each time I change the oil. It's really one of my least favorite jobs. I'm tempted to reinstall the bolts from the top like other have done (with anti-rotation tabs) so I can check the torque from the bottom. At that time, I'll install new bolts/nuts. I'm planning on the NAS6606-36 bolts (I have Grove gear) and the NAS1804-6 nuts. While looking for some some of the 1804's, I stumbled on an H20-6 (also a 3/8x24 12 point rated at 220,000).
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?Product=H20

The H20's measure .45in in length, compared to the .37in for the NAS1804's. I like the idea of more thread length. Has anyone used the H20's and are the specs comparable?

Brian
The H20 is a stronger nut, with more thread engagement. This means you will need NAS bolts that are longer, or with a longer threaded portion, so that you get a slight projection of the bolt threads beyond the end of the nut. (2 threads is often stated as std custom, but is really overkill - It is most important to be sure there are full threads engaging the locking feature of the nut). You will have to research bolt lengths.

I would say, however that the NAS1804 is completely adequate.

Putting the bolts in from the top has several advantages, but is difficult to do as a retro-fit. There are several screws and nuts from the assembly of the gear weldment, doublers and skin that are in the way and would have to be removed. It also means that the height and shape of the gear fairing on the belly will be different, but that is fairly minor.
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  #108  
Old 11-07-2020, 04:47 PM
Northernliving Northernliving is offline
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scsmith View Post
The H20 is a stronger nut, with more thread engagement. This means you will need NAS bolts that are longer, or with a longer threaded portion, so that you get a slight projection of the bolt threads beyond the end of the nut. (2 threads is often stated as std custom, but is really overkill - It is most important to be sure there are full threads engaging the locking feature of the nut). You will have to research bolt lengths.

I would say, however that the NAS1804 is completely adequate.

Putting the bolts in from the top has several advantages, but is difficult to do as a retro-fit. There are several screws and nuts from the assembly of the gear weldment, doublers and skin that are in the way and would have to be removed. It also means that the height and shape of the gear fairing on the belly will be different, but that is fairly minor.
Thanks for the H20 info, Steve. They are nice, hefty nuts! I'm currently using the NAS6206-36 bolts. It looks like the NAS6606-36 would have the extra thread length needed should I decide to go with the H20 nuts.

I've looked at the retrofit obstacles for putting the bolts in from the top, and I think it's manageable. I'm just trying to evaluate a suitable anti rotation solution. W/out it, there isn't much benefit, and may make it more difficult to service with the 6 point bolt head inside the tower. Scott describes the process here. https://vansairforce.com/community/s...d.php?t=130904

Brian
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Boston, MA
RV8 Based at ORH - Purchased
New Superior IO-360-B1AC2 w/Hartzell Composite CS
RV8 - #83313 - Under Construction (sort of!)

Last edited by Northernliving : 11-07-2020 at 06:07 PM.
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  #109  
Old 11-08-2020, 02:15 PM
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skylor skylor is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,046
Default Landing Gear Bolt Torque Check

Quote:
Originally Posted by Northernliving View Post
I check the torque on my -8 landing gear each time I change the oil. It's really one of my least favorite jobs. ...snip
Why the inspection overkill? This is the RV-8 Manual recommendation:
Check these bolts and re-torqued after the first ten flying hours, then again
at 50 hours, and annually thereafter.
After initial "wearing in" of the gear attachment and wear-plate hardware, there shouldn't be much change of the fastener torque over time - unless you are really abusing the landing gear.

Skylor
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  #110  
Old 11-08-2020, 03:05 PM
wilddog wilddog is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: va.
Posts: 740
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Brian,
My bolts go in from the top. I cut short Allen wrenches and fit them in the bolt heads with glue. The tails of the allens are connected together with a short piece of steel tube and glue to prevent rotation when torquing from below.
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