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Bogert Tow Bar

Bill.Peyton

Bill.Peyton

Well Known Member
We purchased the Bogert bar a couple of weeks ago and just finished installing the nose wheel fairing and had an opportunity to try it out. It did not go well. It seems extremely difficult to release the tension lever without hitting the fiberglass on the fairing. The over-center lever has a tendency to snap open and twist the bar in your hands. My Dad, who is in his 80'sand will be flying this also, was unable to successfully attach it without hitting the nose wheel when releasing the lever.
Question, are there other solutions out there? Has anyone else had this issue? Will the expansion force decrease with time?
If I can't modify this thing I suspect I will have to return it
Bill
 
Don't open it so far that it goes over center. It is a bit more difficult to control that way. Just open it enough to clear the pant, make one hole then the other.
 
BB

This product works well on my RV10. I even open it all the way. I start by inserting one side in and then slowly releasing the handle while guiding the other side in. No problems at all, works great.

Pat
 
Also, the company has a package of two longer socket head bolts and two spacers to move the bolt heads almost flush with the wheel pant.
 
I do exactly what Pat pointed out,
inserting on one side when the Bar is all the way open and slowly releasing tension.
The bolt extensions are a must in my opinion to keep you from ruining the wheel pant by accidentally missing the hook up. More important even for ramp personnel not familiar with your new "baby".
The Bogey bar is a very simple and light weight piece of equipment, I wouldn't send it back.
 
What Ernst said.

Also, the hardware store quality nuts and bolts in mine were bending, so I replaced them with aircraft stuff, much improved:D
 
Since my -10 just came out of the paint shop last week, I had Grady put a disk of clear UHMW tape over each access hole to give me some extra protection. Agree with Mike that replacing the hardware also helps.

Jim Berry
 
Find something better.

If you find something that works for you better and want to sell the one you just purchased. Let me know. I am about ready to buy one.
 
Bill..it does have a tendency to "snap" if you're not ready for it. Just get a good hold of it and after you insert it into the wheelpant, slowly release it, expecting it to snap, as it goes over center and you'll be fine....been using mine for nearly 3 years.

Best,
 
I agree, it can get away from you if your not careful. I took some thin S.S. probably .025" thick. Made two washers with the inside i.d. a little smaller than the hole in the wheelpant. I used a short piece of pipe and radiused the inner side. Then used a steel ball the size of the wheelpant hole and pressed a radius in the ss washer using the radiused pipe. I then pressed the washer concave using the pipe and a round object the same diameter as the o.d. of the washer. I polished the washer and prosealed it to the painted wheel pant. The washer covers about 3/4" all arround the original hole and it actually has a lip going into the hole (bend accomplished with steel ball above) protecting the hole diameter.
So far , 110 hrs and about two years they are still doing there job. I think this would help your father installing the Bogart bar, as if it gets away from him hopefully it will only hit the S.S. protector.
Ron
 
I am killing the second B-bar. My first hangar had dirt floor and bulging door rails. My second hangar has perfect floor but the entrance is sloped. The tow bar is good for light application but not for constant abuse :D let's ask Allan to develop a better alternative.
 
BB

Remember guys, this bar is used for turning the nose wheel while towing, not for towing. As most others have said this Bogey Bar works well in fact I have had several airplanes with different bars and this one works as well as any. If you want a bar for towing then yes more design work would be required. Uneven dirt floors are not going to work well with anything but an aircraft tow bar.

Pat
 
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I appreciate all the feedback. I am going to call in the morning and see if there is a way to put the lever arm further down and make it a little longer. Maybe a little more leverage would help the situation. When he comes over tomorrow we will experiment and see if he can control it. I think the over-center release is what causes the immediate movement. If it did not over-center and just expanded the bar it may work better. Ultimately, I would like to see something that used a threaded tube on both sides that could be easily screwed into the pant while the handle end rested on the ground.
BTW, my piper tow bar can be used for pulling, which I do every time I fly. If this thing is going to break if I pull the aircraft with it, I think I need to get something else. It's a little downhill into our hanger, so to get it out requires pulling with the tow bar. This bar is lightweight enough that it could become the one the resides in the aircraft for moving at destinations....

On a diiferent, subject, the other concern I have is bending the 3/8" bolts that the towbar attaches to.
 
Bill.Peyton said:
On a different, subject, the other concern I have is bending the 3/8" bolts that the tow bar attaches to.
Click to expand...

If you have the bolt installed with the aluminum block as per the plans, the bolt is not going to bend.

The block forces the load almost totally into shear, and I cant imagine it not being strong enough.

I used small diameter washers under the bolt head to bring it out even with the surface of the pant, like was posted above.
 
Thanks Mike, someone else mentioned that Bogert also has some replacement hardware with a longer head. That could also make it easier to attach....
 
Bill,

I pull mine on fairly flat pavement in front of hangar with Bogy only. Also with prop and steer with bogy. I usually don't let it go over center, but as others say put one side in then the other.

I picked up the longer bolts and spacers at the hardware store. Make sure you install the heli-coils...I know someone who has them. I had the local fbo tow me with a tractor while I tested the brakes and the questionable longer bolts for breakage. Bolts did not bend or break. I also wanted to know how sturdy they would be before going away from home.

I went to KLOU Bowman Field, Louisville last weekend. The fbo said they could not tow me because all they had was the tug made for retracts or planes without nose wheel pant. They pull your nose gear up on a platform and lift it up. Darlene and I pulled it 200' into and back out of the hangar two days later. Good exercise. Still $30/night. Thank goodness for the bogy. Even without it the -10 is easy to steer if both people are at the prop to swivel as needed. I would not want someone out on the wing pushing though.
 
Bogart Bar: My Procedure

We've been using one for 2 years and like it. As has been said, I put one side on first. Then, when I start to unlock the bar I keep my elbow locked straight the entire time. I pull the lever on the bar by moving my shoulder away with my body. When the snap occurs with my elbow locked the snap must push my entire body weight. But it is not strong enough to do much in that regard. :D If my elbow is bent, however, my arm muscles can't react quick enough to stop it. To me the snap seems more controllable this way.

Bottom line for me. If I bend my elbow... Gotcha.

FWIW- Previous owner towed on flat with lawn tractor. I primarily pull on prop but do occasionally hand tow with the bar.

Maxwell
 
As a follow up to my original post.... I spoke with Patty and Art at Bogert today. Art is going to send me a different lever arm with the attachment point such that it will provide much more leverage. In addition, the lever arm will also be longer. This should not require near the force to open the fork. Hopefully, this will solve the issue for my Dad. What a great place for customer service! All this at no charge mind you, just shipping.
Bill
 
New lever arm

I spoke with Bogert and they sent me a different arm, which is connected closer to the pivot point and is longer. This has added considerable leverage and now works for my Dad.

I have to give them a 10/10 rating and praises for their customer service!

Now off to finish the plane!
 
Like Bill, I installed a Helicoil insert. Then went to the local hardware store and purchased two long internal hex bolts, heavy wall spacers(which I shortened) and washers. Ensure the end of bolt does not extend past inside of fork and use locktite on Helicoil, so that you don't end up with a blown tire. I shortened the small tubes on the Bogi tow bar that go over these bolt heads. No problems so far and no pant damage.
 
I have made 2 mods to the standard Bogi Bar for the -10. One is a mod to make the over center stop actually a hook so a loose bolt won't let it go past the stop. The other is a round tube welded on the ends that go on the wheel, but pointing towards the plane (as if extensions for the main arm tubes). This lets the bar serve as a rudder lock by putting the two extensions in the rudder pedal holes and the arm on the seat back with the seat belt holding it down. I have yet to see another rudder lock that is as strong. The little spring loaded one is an accident waiting to happen. I have already replaced one rudder on a -10 that used one of those.
 
Jesse said:
The little spring loaded one is an accident waiting to happen. I have already replaced one rudder on a -10 that used one of those.
Click to expand...

Curious...are you refering to the Gustbuster? If so, I'm interested on hearing the damage incurred and how. I have been using this product and like it very much. Interested on hearing more...
 
I welded thin steel tabs 1/2" X 1" that insert under rudder pedal in the slot. The handle then goes in front of seat foam as I adjust seat forward. The stick gets some cushioning around it, then the seat belt holds it fixed. It works using items that we already have on board for a trip.
 
Those of you that did the helicoil and longer bolt, you're still using the shop made spacer block (trapazoid shape) under the bolt head in addition to a spacer?
 
Here is a photo of a tow bar as Wayne described above, except I used scrap aluminum and hose clamps instead of welding a tab.

[IMG]http://i47.tinypic.com/n6tllj.jpg[/IMG]


Tab goes over rudder bar and under brake pedal. Stick thru the opening with the foam.
Also, you can put the tabs thru the holes in the brake pedals and have a parking brake.
 
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Price update

Went to finally order a tow bar today.
Bogi Bars have gone from $85 when I first looked at them to $108 without the extensions.

Priced me out of one. Went with Wag Aero. I will make a Dan Horton-style bar for actual towing.

DA
 
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