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Just installed my new Beringer nose wheel..

Walt

Well Known Member
Although I was happy with my Grove nose wheel and never have had a flat, I just loved the idea of finally getting rid of the "Go Cart" tube for good. When the opportunity arose last week to get one of these for a good price (Osh special) I went for it.

IMG_5744a.jpg


Not being sure what to expect I anxiously waited for the wheel to arrive. As soon as it got here (today) I immediately headed for the airport to start the install process which I figured would take the better part of the day. Well I was wrong, this thing is beautifully made and it fit perfectly with no cutting, grinding, adjusting or trimming. I just unbolted the grove and bolted on the new Beringer wheel. Took me longer to get the wheel off the ground than it did to change it. The quality and attention to detail on this wheel in outstanding, I am very impressed :D

Follow this link to view the install process:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Walt.Joann/Beringer?feat=directlink

Now I'm looking for a reason to change the main wheels and brakes :D
 
Allright, whose up to making me a clear plexi nose wheel fairing to show this thing off :rolleyes:
 
Looks mighty fine ...

You make it hard to remain satisfied with what I've got :) Looking forward to seeing it in person.
 
Word is...

The brake systems they sell are awesome as well. the Hot Bike guys love their products.
I have always felt that the brakes on my RV were just barely adequate. I sure would like to hear from some folks who have used the wheel brake package on their aircraft. I, for one, would spend a little extra to gain some advantage. I like the tubeless tire idea a lot, and am interested to see how well the tires will maintain pressure.

Regards,
Chris
 
The brake systems they sell are awesome as well. the Hot Bike guys love their products.
I have always felt that the brakes on my RV were just barely adequate. I sure would like to hear from some folks who have used the wheel brake package on their aircraft. I, for one, would spend a little extra to gain some advantage. I like the tubeless tire idea a lot, and am interested to see how well the tires will maintain pressure.
Regards,
Chris

I have the Grove main wheels and brakes now and they are definately an improvement over stock, I've seen the Beringer main wheels/brakes and they are awesome, would love to install them as well :D

I had the same question on the tubeless tire holding air, turns out this new AeroClassic 8 ply tire is rated as "Tubeless" (marked as such on the sidewall) and am told it will definately hold air better than the tube. I will be keeping a close eye on it and report back with the results.
 
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red nosewheel questions

I need a nosewheel and was planning on Grove but I'm a little unexcited about the Chinese tube too. I was unaware of this option.

Is this a tubeless wheel/tire? Can I use the Vans tire, or does it require a tubeless tire of the same exact size, or is it a different size?

I see Spruce has 2 versions of a "kit" for RVs, one with a 11x4.00-5 tire and another with a Michelin Aviator Tire 5.00-5" 10ply (Tubeless ). Seems like these are different tire sizes?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/beringer5nose.php

Thanks for posting this, great to learn about another option.
 
Is this a tubeless wheel/tire? Can I use the Vans tire, or does it require a tubeless tire of the same exact size, or is it a different size?

I see Spruce has 2 versions of a "kit" for RVs, one with a 11x4.00-5 tire and another with a Michelin Aviator Tire 5.00-5" 10ply (Tubeless ). Seems like these are different tire sizes?

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/beringer5nose.php

This is a tubeless wheel design and requires the "New" style AeroClassic 8 ply 11 x 4 x 5 which is also a tubeless tire design. Nice thing is when you purchase the wheel it comes with the tire installed and aired up, it's ready to install and go fly!

Spruce does not list the correct kit for the RV nose wheel, you need a P/N SRV02A. I tried getting it from them but they seemed unable to source it so I got it directly from Remi at Baringer.
 
Walt,

It sounds like you know some of the folks at Beringer. Do you have any idea if they still make the little tailwheel? I can't find it anymore, but it looked like a nice wieght saving way to get a little better tire/wheel on the back of an RV.
 
Spruce sells the Beringer nosewheel, I got mine from them about a month ago for $349, $150 less than Beringer quoted. At the time they were just getting the SRV02A P/N into their system. I returned my Grove nosewheel after discovering that you can't buy a tube with the proper TR-67 centered stem to fit their wheel in an 11X4 size.

The Beringer wheel is like a piece of artwork in its detail, the wheel itself is even engraved with the torque to use for the bolts.

I do have a couple of issues though, the Beringer supplied tire (not the wheel) has about 0.080 in. of radial rounout, which I expect to make a vibration when taxiing, haven't decided whether to replace the tire or not.

And the Beringer axle ID is 0.032" larger than the Vans supplied axle bolt. I fabricated custom press-fit brass sleeves for the axle to eliminate the significant play this creates.
 
How hard is it to change a tire if you get a flat with this nosewheel? Do you need any special tools?
 
Spruce sells the Beringer nosewheel, I got mine from them about a month ago for $349, $150 less than Beringer quoted. At the time they were just getting the SRV02A P/N into their system.

And the Beringer axle ID is 0.032" larger than the Vans supplied axle bolt. I fabricated custom press-fit brass sleeves for the axle to eliminate the significant play this creates.

That's a great price from Spruce!

I didn't notice the play between the bolt and axle when I installed it but will check this next time I jack the nose up. Not sure it would make much difference as the axle if firmly captured by the fork when the bolt is torqued down.
 
How hard is it to change a tire if you get a flat with this nosewheel? Do you need any special tools?

Not an easy thing to change, but being that it's tubeless good ole "fix-a-flat" or a "plug" should work fine for a temporary repair.
 
Spruce sells the Beringer nosewheel, I got mine from them about a month ago for $349, $150 less than Beringer quoted. At the time they were just getting the SRV02A P/N into their system.
I called Spruce - and the price is $558 for the SRV02A :(
 
I was just looking at the pics that were posted on the web and it looks like there are no threads showing on the outside of the axle nut. Does the axle bolt have to be replaced with a bit longer one in order to make this happen? We actually put on a castle net with a cotter pin on mine when we changed out to the new fork to avoid a possible catastrophe.
Woodman
 
Walt,

You didn't by any chance get any weight comparisons between the old and the new by any chance?Bob'nRobyn

No sorry, I wanted to but did not have a scale available that would give me an accurate reading. The Grove magnesium is listed at 3.4lbs without the tire/tube, the Beringer is listed at 6.3lbs with tire. The tire is pretty heavy but if anyone has that weight available we would know the difference.


I was just looking at the pics that were posted on the web and it looks like there are no threads showing on the outside of the axle nut. Does the axle bolt have to be replaced with a bit longer one in order to make this happen? We actually put on a castle net with a cotter pin on mine when we changed out to the new fork to avoid a possible catastrophe.
Woodman


That was just a temporary install without the fairing, I used 6 extra washers to avoid having to run the nut down all the way. No change in bolt length.
 
Reality checK

I called Spruce - and the price is $558 for the SRV02A :(

Although the Grove wheel with it's different axle assembly supposedly corrected the binding problem with the Van's supplied wheel,:) $558 could buy over fifty spare tubes. :eek:
Also a flat at a desolate landing strip could be easily fixed with a few hand tools and a hand pump. :D
If you blow the bead on a tubeless it can be a real problem without a compressor and a bead expander. And if you have to change the tire you may need a tire mounting machine. I know a piece of rope and and screw driver can sometimes work to reseal the bead if you can get the tire on the wheel but not always. Carrying a spare tube doesn't weigh that much for the insurance it provides.
Having the Beringer is nice but almost like buying a Rolex watch and always wearing it under your sleeve. A Timex works just as good. :p
 
This looks like a glider main wheel assembly. For some reason, the European gliders all come with cool looking anodized wheels. The new main and tailwheels that we get from TOST are blue anodized, but I've seen a new HpH 304S with a red wheel that looks a lot like that.

Remember that the entire weight of the glider is supported on the main during landing, and that explains the high weight rating of the hub, wheel and tire.

FWIW, I've always thought that the pneumatic tailwheels we use on gliders might work well for an RVer who wants one. Common sizes are 150x30, 180x35, 200x50 and 210x65. If you're looking to move some CG aft, TOST makes brass wheel/hub assemblies that weigh about 3lb w/o tire.

TODR
 
I called Spruce - and the price is $558 for the SRV02A :(

Wow! Looks like I got a helluva deal at $349!

Regarding spare parts and repairs in remote locations, that is definitely something to consider. I will be getting spares of the O-Rings that are required, and I have reviewed the Beringer repair procedure. It seems pretty simple. I didn't see any elaborate tools required that I would be worried about carrying.

Although the Grove wheel with it's different axle assembly supposedly corrected the binding problem with the Van's supplied wheel,:) $558 could buy over fifty spare tubes. :eek:
Yet not one of those fifty tubes would fit correctly on a grove wheel, unless you are OK with yanking the stem 1-1/4 in. out of its "natural" position, which, according to this forum, has caused at least one stem to be sheared from the tube!
 
Van's build manual says to torque the AN6-60A axle bolt to 7-10 ft/lbs.

The chart in the manual also says AN6 bolts get torqued to 13.3-15.8 ft/lbs.

Being that I'm installing a Beringer wheel (different axle) vs. Van's stock, I'm even more confused as to which value to use.


What have you Beringer guys used?


Gracias!!

Joe
 
Have any any of you guys with the Beringer nosewheel noticed a radial runout of the tire? No problem with the wheel itself, but my tire which came assembled with the Beringer nosewheel has .063 inches of radial runout as measured with a dial indicator. It seems to me that this will make a significant vibration. Has anybody else seen this? Is there some acceptable level of runout for a tire?
 
Van's build manual says to torque the AN6-60A axle bolt to 7-10 ft/lbs.

The chart in the manual also says AN6 bolts get torqued to 13.3-15.8 ft/lbs.

Being that I'm installing a Beringer wheel (different axle) vs. Van's stock, I'm even more confused as to which value to use.


What have you Beringer guys used?


Gracias!!

Joe

Standard AN bolt torque applies here, 13.3 - 15.8
 
Have any any of you guys with the Beringer nosewheel noticed a radial runout of the tire? No problem with the wheel itself, but my tire which came assembled with the Beringer nosewheel has .063 inches of radial runout as measured with a dial indicator. It seems to me that this will make a significant vibration. Has anybody else seen this? Is there some acceptable level of runout for a tire?

Pretty normal for these tires, actually .063 is pretty good :D
 
Walt,
Just installed the front beringer front wheel crazy how smooth the wheel spins compared to the old wheel , what air pressure are you using
Tim
 
I like to keep between 35-40 PSI in the nose wheel with this tubeless design.

In the tube style wheels (Matco/Grove) I would keep 40-50 PSI normaly.
 
In my experience low pressure in tube tires will cause tube failures so I always keep them at the upper end of the scale.
 
Anybody with a Beringer nosewheel have any problem fitting the nosewheel fairing? When I put a 5/8 spacer above the wheel and put the wheelpant on, as the manual indicates, the fairing sits way too high. I wonder if the diameter of the tire on the Beringer wheel is a little bigger than the Vans standard?
 
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Anybody with a Beringer nosewheel have any problem fitting the nosewheel fairing? When I put a 5/8 spacer above the wheel and put the wheelpant on, as the manual indicates, the fairing sits way too high. I wonder if the diameter of the tire on the Beringer wheel is a little bigger than the Vans standard?

My wheelpant fit just like always when I replaced my stock nose wheel with the Beringer.

I would be hesitant to have less than 5/8" clearance between the wheel and tire.
 
Anybody with a Beringer nosewheel have any problem fitting the nosewheel fairing? When I put a 5/8 spacer above the wheel and put the wheelpant on, as the manual indicates, the fairing sits way too high. I wonder if the diameter of the tire on the Beringer wheel is a little bigger than the Vans standard?

It uses the same tire so there should not be any difference.
 
comparing ACS & Beringer

ACS is now showing a "Nose wheel 5" with tire 11x4.00-5" 8ply and aluminum axle" which seems to correspond to the SRV02A in the Beringer catalog. The ACS listing below that ("Nose wheel kit as described above, with Michelin Aviator Tire 5.00-5" 10ply Tubeless Weight: 8.9 Lbs") seems to imply an optional different wheel & tire, but according to the Beringer catalog, that one is actually for the RV-10.

They are priced in the Beringer catalog at $558 and $649 (RV-10) USD, and $730 and $720 (RV-10) at ACS.
 
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