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Aileron Pushrod W-1018A- SS version

Wes H

Member
I assembled the W-1018A aileron pushrod today and I just don't like it. First, as discussed in previous threads, the AN490 rod end doesn't fit worth a darn so I chucked it up in a Grind-all and made the diameter fit fine. I primed it and then riveted it with the two 4-11 rivets on each end. The mfg head just sits funky on a tube that small and I also struggled to get the shop head looking correct. I just can't wrap my brain around that much of the rivet shank sitting inside the tube all by it's lonesome, or the load the shank will bear. Other than the weight penalty, does anyone see a problem with making them out of solid 300 or 400 series stainless with machined threads on each end? I modeled them up so i could measure the weight (picture attached). The stock pushrod assembly is less than .5lbs and the solid version would be about 1.25lbs
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Hey Wes, just my 2c and definitely not an engineering perspective and probably not what you are wanting to hear, but I think you might be solving a problem that doesnt need solving. Hundreds of RV10's have the stock way of doing it and arent having issues due to it, let alone other models. If doing a little tangent and manufacturing something like this makes you sleep at night and doesnt make the controls feel heavier, then maybe go for it... but perhaps realize its likely not necessary :)
 
Thanks Brian. The heavy control potential and the strength were my main concerns with going solid. You?re right, 10k+ rv?s out there with this very setup. I?m going to build on. Got a fuselage calling
 
Wise move

Thanks Brian. The heavy control potential and the strength were my main concerns with going solid. You?re right, 10k+ rv?s out there with this very setup. I?m going to build on. Got a fuselage calling
There are hundreds of ways to make the aircraft "better", and if you resist the temptation to do them, you'll save money and time for sure, and probably end up with a lighter aircraft. At least that's my experience.
 
Rebuilding them

I was working on these last weekend. I accidently cut one rod an inch too short. So when I ordered a new rod to cut down again, I went ahead and ordered 2 more AN 490 end caps as well. I plan to remake both of mine as I was not happy with how the one came out.

Like you, setting a rivet on a very tight radius rounded surface left me thinking that it was not a good rivet job. I might ask permission to drill and I stall a #6 bolt through the hole. It will require going up to a #28 drill bit from the #30. Has anyone else done this?
 
Like you, setting a rivet on a very tight radius rounded surface left me thinking that it was not a good rivet job. I might ask permission to drill and I stall a #6 bolt through the hole. It will require going up to a #28 drill bit from the #30. Has anyone else done this?

That tight radius is going to defeat you with the bolt, too. The flat undersurface of a bolt or nut will not mate well. But I wouldn't worry too much because the rivet here is in shear, not tension. I suppose you could weld a bearing surface onto the tubes, if it really bothered you (don't grind into the tube walls to create a flat spot, it would be too thin) but, as mentioned earlier in the thread, it seems like a solution in search of a problem. These pushrods are holding up fine in service.
 
I think it?s always been an option on the plans to weld the AN490 rod end in.
I did this for my 7 and 10.
The welding shop was just over the road from the hangar so it was an easy job.
Looks nice.
 
I wasn't happy with the rivet tails on the ones that I inherited with my used wing kit. Parts are cheap, so I decided to make new ones.

Unfortunately the ones I made weren't much better. I think what happens is that since the assembly is hollow, the long -12 rivets bow in the hollow space and it causes the tails to set off center.

I'm sure mine are fine, but they're ugly, so I ordered yet another set to be included in the fuselage box. If my deductions are correct, I can fill the hollow rod end with 5 minute epoxy before I drill them and have an easier time of getting the rivets set right.
 
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