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Bulkheads and static holes

nohoflyer

Well Known Member
Patron
I’m doing my bulkheads now and I see per the plans there are holes drilled to accommodate the static port.

I’m going Dynon IFR and I’m wondering how different their static system is from Van’s stock system and any mods I should be considering now before I drill.

I’ve read some old posts about guys doing dual static ports and running tubes down the longerons. Any other ideas or experience with Dynon?
 
The Dynon pitot static kit has the ports, tubing and fittings you need.

Put a port on each side of the fuselage per the Van’s plans. Run the tubing as needed to your ADHARS modules (pitot, static and AOA). Tubing routing that best fits your plane. Routing is only to the ADHARS modules unless you have something on the panel that need pitot and/or static (like an analog airspeed instrument).

Where are you mounting the ADHARS modules?

Carl
 
I’m not 100% sure yet. I can’t believe some of these decisions are coming up so fast.
 
If you mount the Dynon ADAHRS module(s) as recommended in the tailcone using the Vans ADAHRS bracket mount then the static connections are very easy because everything is in the same area. I've got the Dynon pitot/static/pitot but decided to use the Vans rivets for the stock ports because they apparently work well. The holes are bigger for the Dynon ports versus Vans rivets that are only 1/8. The lines are all 1/4 inch.
For IFR you may need an alternate static source in case of icing, but I am not sure.
The pneumatic lines for the pitot and AOA will need to be run from the left wing through to the ADAHRS module, so something else to plan for.
 
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So it sounds like buying the adahars unit now would be best since I’m constructing the aft fuse? I was really hoping to do this more towards the end. Am I being dumb by not getting way out in front of installing my instrument package this early?

My plan was to buck rivets for at least 6 months as I save cash for the Dynon purchase. I just got my fuse kit a month ago.
 
So it sounds like buying the adahars unit now would be best since I’m constructing the aft fuse? I was really hoping to do this more towards the end. Am I being dumb by not getting way out in front of installing my instrument package this early?

My plan was to buck rivets for at least 6 months as I save cash for the Dynon purchase. I just got my fuse kit a month ago.

Look at Dynon's install instructions for the adahars, and only install the needed mount or platform for the mount. Read ahead and think ahead but don't purchase anything for the panel too far ahead..... You will change your mind many times. And new products will be introduced all of the time. You will be amazed at what Dynon will have to offer when your project is ready for the panel..... and that is not now.
 
So it sounds like buying the adahars unit now would be best since I’m constructing the aft fuse? I was really hoping to do this more towards the end. Am I being dumb by not getting way out in front of installing my instrument package this early?

My plan was to buck rivets for at least 6 months as I save cash for the Dynon purchase. I just got my fuse kit a month ago.

I would not buy any electronics at this point. You’re essentially betting that Dynon won’t release an upgrade in the next 5 years. I wouldn’t make that bet.
 
ADAHRS

So it sounds like buying the adahars unit now would be best since I’m constructing the aft fuse? I was really hoping to do this more towards the end. Am I being dumb by not getting way out in front of installing my instrument package this early?

My plan was to buck rivets for at least 6 months as I save cash for the Dynon purchase. I just got my fuse kit a month ago.

No need to buy electronics. Buy the Vans ADAHRS mount that fits between the J-stiffeners in front of F707. You can mount the ADAHRS later. Dynon sells a mount to install two ADAHRS on one mount.
Servos can also be mounted later.
You may want to do some research on VAF. Some static ports have been known to produce error due to the shape. Some builders use the Vans port and the Dynon or SafeAir flange. The flange is riveted and prosealed inside. The Vans port (rivet) is prosealed and set from outside. The solution keeps the best of both. Plumbing inside is easy. Port outside is as Vans designed. Most run the two ports to a "T" at the top then back down to the longeron and forward to the ADAHRS.
 
Might be more convenient to install the ADAHRS bracket now but can be easily done later. I personally wouldn’t worry about it till much later.
What I would do though is purchase the Pitot Static AOA plumbing kit now (doesn’t matter Dynon or Garmin, basically the same). I’d install (& tighten) the 90 deg tube fittings to the static ports, than glue them into the side skins while they are easily accessed though. I wouldn’t worry about running any plumbing until you are about ready to rivet down the cabin floor boards.
Keep building!
 
Might be more convenient to install the ADAHRS bracket now but can be easily done later. I personally wouldn’t worry about it till much later.
What I would do though is purchase the Pitot Static AOA plumbing kit now (doesn’t matter Dynon or Garmin, basically the same). I’d install (& tighten) the 90 deg tube fittings to the static ports, than glue them into the side skins while they are easily accessed though. I wouldn’t worry about running any plumbing until you are about ready to rivet down the cabin floor boards.
Keep building!

Thanks I have the Dynon aoa/pitot and roll servo already installed in the wings. I believe there were some static ports in that kit.
 
This is the kit I was thinking of.
Just screw a couple 90 fittings into the static ports, drill the side skins & glue the static ports in place & come back to the plumbing later.
 

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