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RV-12 WORKSHOP ADVICE

CessnaTPA

Active Member
As I'm waiting for my empennage to arrive I've just about got my workshop ready and doing the final touches. What are you guys using to organize all the small parts? Would love to see some pics and suggestions on storage bin selections and any tips for a successful start. Thanks
 
For storing some of the mid sized parts I found using wire rack shelving was a good way to go .... and also easy to put wheels on so the rack is easy to move. I used a rack similar to this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Chrome-5-Tier-5-Tier-Metal-Wire-Shelving-Unit-36-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-16-in-D-21656CPS/205885523

Actually, it is advisable to consider placing most everything in the shop on wheels such as the power tool bench and workbench(s), because unless you have tons of space to build in, you will likely find it necessary to rearrange the shop a few times during different phases of the build. Also, if you are older, you may prefer having a workbench lower than the typical workbench so you can sit on a rolling mechanics stool. I made benches that the height could be adjusted high or low ... however, found standing and leaning over a high bench was beginning to disagree with my back so eventually I found myself doing most of the small parts work while sitting at a low bench setting.

For all the small hardware, solid rivets, and non-LP4-3 rivets, I used small inexpensive parts bins from Harbor Freight as seen in the following link:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGyxkLJpCDk/UbFfum59iOI/AAAAAAAAFEg/Ns0bqbM_bN8/s1600/DSC04486.JPG

A label machine was used to mark each bin. I had trays for all the screws, bolts, nuts & nutplates, washers, solid rivets, ect. As the different kit parts came into the shop, I could easily peel off the label and move it to another bin as necessary to rearrange and make room for new parts. To save on bins, would I double up in some bins. As an example, I placed really long AN3 bolts with short AN3 bolts so there could be no mistaking which was which.

Using a parts tray is controversial because the down side to all this is if you drop the tray, you are totally SCREWED! So I NEVER, NEVER EVER left the trays open on the workbench. I would open only one tray at a time, remove the exact parts count needed for the current item being worked on, then religiously closed and placed the tray back on my wire rack shelving unit. The trays were labeled as Washers, Screws, AN3&4 bolts, AN fittings, Misc parts, ect. ... I found I could find most parts quickly and easily just looking through the semi-transparent trays.

Some work out of the Van's brown bags ... I helped a friend do that on his RV-9A build and after a very short while, he too began sorting the parts into parts bins. Because sometimes the only way to determine which part is which is by the parts count on the inventory list. So after a couple of parts were used, at times it became difficult to identify some items.

Good luck with your new build,
 
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D385F351-6C40-4DA6-8B7D-AE48C7F4E19D.jpg

42CBCF82-EC39-4957-B94B-2EF30CB0BB3B.jpg

Pics above show my organizing methods. Spice containers for rivets. Parts bins for nuts,bolts, washers, cotter pins, etc.... and I have a few of the harbor freight yellow boxes (bottom shelf) dedicated for certain tools.... Dremel, cam lock tools, etc. Works well for me. I also subscribe to the “everything’s on wheels” method.
 
Thanks everyone for all the great suggestions.

For storing some of the mid sized parts I found using wire rack shelving was a good way to go .... and also easy to put wheels on so the rack is easy to move. I used a rack similar to this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Chrome-5-Tier-5-Tier-Metal-Wire-Shelving-Unit-36-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-16-in-D-21656CPS/205885523

Actually, it is advisable to consider placing most everything in the shop on wheels such as the power tool bench and workbench(s), because unless you have tons of space to build in, you will likely find it necessary to rearrange the shop a few times during different phases of the build. Also, if you are older, you may prefer having a workbench lower than the typical workbench so you can sit on a rolling mechanics stool. I made benches that the height could be adjusted high or low ... however, found standing and leaning over a high bench was beginning to disagree with my back so eventually I found myself doing most of the small parts work while sitting at a low bench setting.

For all the small hardware, solid rivets, and non-LP4-3 rivets, I used small inexpensive parts bins from Harbor Freight as seen in the following link:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGyxkLJpCDk/UbFfum59iOI/AAAAAAAAFEg/Ns0bqbM_bN8/s1600/DSC04486.JPG

A label machine was used to mark each bin. I had trays for all the screws, bolts, nuts & nutplates, washers, solid rivets, ect. As the different kit parts came into the shop, I could easily peel off the label and move it to another bin as necessary to rearrange and make room for new parts. To save on bins, would I double up in some bins. As an example, I placed really long AN3 bolts with short AN3 bolts so there could be no mistaking which was which.

Using a parts tray is controversial because the down side to all this is if you drop the tray, you are totally SCREWED! So I NEVER, NEVER EVER left the trays open on the workbench. I would open only one tray at a time, remove the exact parts count needed for the current item being worked on, then religiously closed and placed the tray back on my wire rack shelving unit. The trays were labeled as Washers, Screws, AN3&4 bolts, AN fittings, Misc parts, ect. ... I found I could find most parts quickly and easily just looking through the semi-transparent trays.

Some work out of the Van's brown bags ... I helped a friend do that on his RV-9A build and after a very short while, he too began sorting the parts into parts bins. Because sometimes the only way to determine which part is which is by the parts count on the inventory list. So after a couple of parts were used, at times it became difficult to identify some items.

Good luck with your new build,
 
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