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Windshield Fairing

Paddy

Paddy

Well Known Member
I'm in the process of filling and block sanding the cabin top after fitting the windows. One area that seems a bit more challenging is getting a smooth, consistent surface on the built up fiberglass fairing between the windshield bottom and fuselage. I managed to get a nice 7" radius all around with the layers of glass, but after sanding out a top layer of micro, the surface is still wavy and not as smooth as some of the finished 10's I've seen. I've been using a variety of PVC pipe sections as sanding blocks, up to 6" in diameter, but still struggling. Is it just my technique or is there a better way?
 
nah, skipping the fiberglass altogether would be cheating :p. I'm thinking maybe a flexible sanding form like a pool noodle or something might be worth a try...
 
Nothing fits better than a fiberglass faring that is molded to fit the fuselage. Epoxy is nasty, sticky, smelly, labor intensive work but in the end it is awesome.
 
AAARRRGGGHHHHH!

After the torture imposed by the awful glass work that is the cabin top, I think the aluminum fairing is looking really good...
 
Paddy said:
nah, skipping the fiberglass altogether would be cheating :p. I'm thinking maybe a flexible sanding form like a pool noodle or something might be worth a try...
Click to expand...

Paddy, hello again!

I'm definitely no expert and I didn't do the front fairing out of glass, but I did use a pool noodle (actually foam protectors from the kids trampoline) on the curvy sports of my empennage fairing. The firmest material yet flexible enough to form to the shape of whatever shape your sanding. I've also used pipe insulation from the hardware stores for several smaller diameters than a pool noodle. I also have a set of "DuraBlocks" with a round block that I like.

More novice advice, don't sand with the curve.....hard to explain but picture a snowboarder in a half pipe cutting the curve on a 45 so to speak. Then sand on a 45 the other direction like a snowboarder in a half pipe going uphill. The curve should have sanding crosshatch like a freshly honed cylinder.
 
Fill and sand,,,fill and sand,,,,fill and sand,,,,,. You will eventually get there and be very happy with your results. :)
 
interesting subject, I just posted a pic of mine in the fiberglass section, the criss cross half pipe method worked for me with a 12" sanding block with the soft round top in the curve. spent one month sanding glassing sanding glassing sanding ...........
 
I personally like the looks of the aluminum windshield fairing but do not see very many used. I think it gives a nice looking separation of windshied from fuselage and would offer a good place for paint scheme separation as well. Just curious to any downsides anyone might have....?
 
Well...

I guess, for a purest, it is cheating. Or if you want to fill, sand, and repeat for weeks on end something that you are going to paint anyway...

To each his own, I say...I am planning on the aluminum for now. After the cabin top and doors I can safely say fiberglass sucks. And to think I almost bought a Velocity kit...
 
I agree, the fiberglass does suck - big-time. If I hadn't already started the fiberglass fairing, I'd have seriously considered the aluminum option. The good thing is that by the time we get to the windshield, we're almost done and will probably never think about it again once we're flying... so close now... :)
 
I agree with the earlier post to sand at a 45* instead of along the trough.

I made up a 7" radius squeegee to apply filler with, seemed to be a good way to go. Keeps the filler nicely level as you put it on.

I would suggest you stay away from soft material for a sanding block----while it may conform to the compound curve well, it will ride over the high spots that you are trying to sand down.

Take it easy, use a light fog coat of most any spray paint to show where you are cutting off material.
 
A comment from the peanut gallery

... because it will be a long time before I'm where you are at, but did you begin with the layup and sanding techniques shown on the mothership website for the -14 canopy fairing? They made it look pretty easy, albeit time-lapse covering several days' work.

https://www.vansaircraft.com/public/service-rv14.htm

At any rate, please figure out an easy way to get this done before I reach this step maybe next year :rolleyes:

-Stormy
 
flexible sander

i made a curved sqeege like one of the earlier guys mentioned.

Then i used a flexible sander like the one that Aircraft tool supply sells. part #15078. it costs about $6.

I also sanded at an angle, filled, sanded at an angle, etc. it seemed to take care of the high spots.

I was pleased with the results.
 
The right choice

I may have been the first one to use the skunk metal fairing in the -10. Had it flying for 7 years with zero regrets. I think he might even be using pics I took during the installation. Great fit.
 
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