RV-12: Engine Mounting Cap Screws Inspection

[JohnF]

hmmm...its been two days since this builder alert was sounded and I don't yet see anything from Vans Aircraft. Did I miss something that has been published? I didn't see anything on their web site. Just wondering.

[JBPILOT]

No response yet, but I feel certain they are working on it. The fact the caution is out there now is enough ( I hope ! ). I'm sure they want to issue a response that everyone can do, and not have to visit the problem again. It is a real problem. Now we are finding out other LSA planes have had similar problems. As Larry said, we are saying what WE have done, but nothing official. I feel comfortable with mine now.

John Bender

[clucier]

Interesting and may not be related but there are two Evektor SportStars in Scottsdale that I fly, they were damaged in the big Hail storm in October and during the repairs both had there engine mounts replaced I am trying to find out why. Engine vibration? Loose mount screws cause more damage?

Both were between 700 - 800 hours with 912's

[todehnal]

It really shouldn't be that difficult to just strip back off the items on the top of the engine that interfere with the removal of the baffle. We all have detailed instructions and experience with that. The baffle itself may be a little tedious to get off, but I think that, with a little care, we might save most of the seal that we made. I really don't like the idea of cutting into that $200 part. In fact, according to one of the Rotax engine instructors, he thought that the seal that we were making was overkill. Apparently, none of the other users of this engine go through that sealing process. They just trim for a close fit, and rely on the population of parts of top, to keep it in place. Actually, I kind of like the idea of being able to take that baffle off, without going through the clean and reseal process. But the best answer for us folks, still in the build process, is to wait for the Van's fix. That way, I'm sure that we will get the best solution and I would expect that solution to be timely.

Tom

[sportkid]

Preparing for a flight to south Texas, this thread (thanks John) got me thinking about checking those bolts. Memory had me guessing whether I
installed those bolts correctly.
Pulled the cowls and as close as possible checked the torque on two of the bolts. But after years of building race engines, I felt confident that I had properly torqued and 'red' locktited all four. Anytime there are metal bolts threaded into case halves it is a good idea to locktite. Mine are good but I hope future builders learn this lesson.

Dick

[JBPILOT]

Not sure I would have used RED Loctite. For sure they won't come loose, but you generally have to HEAT 'red' to remove them. Can do, but maybe over-kill here. Time will tell if 'Blue' is enough, but I feel it is. Put plenty on, and fill the voids. Due to adding a lubricant during torquing, I would stay at the 26# figure. If anyone has a problem after adding SUFFICIENT 'blue', for sure let all of us know.

John Bender

[DonFromTX]

For this "gonnabe" builder, does anyone have a photo of any or all of these bolts? I want to be sure I know them when I get an engine.

[JBPILOT]

Page 46-06 in the instructions cover the bolt installation. Calls for simple split lock washers. The picture is very clear. The issue at this point is how to ensure they stay put. Several of us have had a problem. Some of us have Loctited, 'blue', these bolts. Maybe by the time you are ready to install these, there will be a published solution. Just keep 46-06 in mind.

John Bender

[Jetguy]

You can download this section from Vans web site. Here is the link:

http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/revi...Section_46.pdf

Check page 6.

[DonFromTX]

Wow, thanks. I was not aware that was on the Vans site, clears it up real well, and I can well see all the excitement. Losing these bolts could ruin your whole day.