skiaflex/silpruf question

I watched the silpruf glasair videos, was considering using this method on my 10. Is there a reason the for a 1/8" gap on the outside edge of the window? Could I go with something less, like just enough for the #40 clecos? Was trying to minimize the ring around the window. I do plane on painting first then putting the window in (realize I'll need to scuff up the joggle area I am putting the windows in).

Keep the 1/8, you will later have to squeeze the silpruf in
3/32 will not allow you to evenly spread it and relpace if you wish

You may want to install the windows before painting. I flew for a year with the plane unpainted. The plane was painted (including the joggle) then Silpruf was filet in the joggle for the finished look. Take a look at the Cirrus side windows. That’s how the finished product will look. If you follow the Glasair video it will turn out great. I went oven the video a few times and scratched notes down so I had quick reference while doing the prep work.

I have the tail feathers painted, painting as I go. Any reason to not paint the doors before the window goes in using this method?

Well just a thought. If you paint, now you have a layer of paint between the Silpruf and the fiberglass window flange, so you could possibly induce a weak point with the adhesive to the paint vs to the fiberglass flange. The other is that the paint thickness will raise the window slightly possibly creating a window that is proud vs the canopy.

I can sand the paint down to the flange once I scribe the gap line. I figured having the paint on would allow me to set the height of the window to be with the paint thickness.

Mark,

I’m in the middle of this process right now. I just finished gluing the two rear windows. I’ve drilled and prepped the door windows and windscreen. The Glastar videos suggest a 3/16” gap. That’s the gap I established and it has worked well. I understand your question and believe you could go with a smaller gap. However, there have been a number of locations where a smaller gap would be a bit of a challenge. The issue has to do with the bevel molded into the vertical lip of the fiberglass. You should be able to get a drill bit into a tighter gap but you’ll have to drill into that bevel without damaging the plexi. In any case, I wouldn’t suggest a gap closer than 1/8”. You might give it a try and if it doesn’t work trim more off the plexi and drill new holes.

With regard to the discussion about painting prior to installation. The videos discuss that option and the modified technique for filling the gap. As long as you properly sand the flange you should have no problem with adhesion. The spacers will make it easy to establish a level transition.

From the videos the process seems a bit onerous. Fact is, once you get on a roll, it’s quite easy. I’m very happy with the results.

didn't mask very good

I installed the rear and door windows with silpruf a long while ago. I have not yet painted the plane. Unfortunately for me the instructional videos were not yet a thing when I did it and I was not as careful as I should have been installing them. There are a few small spots of silpruf that got smeared around the window openings. Does anyone know the best way to clean that up? I've been told, due to it being silicone, that it will cause adhesion issues with the paint. Thoughts?

I would let your paint shop know. The video points out that it can cause fish eyes on the paint job. Maybe there is some option with the primer or pre treatment.