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Brake pads for an early -6?

Ironflight

VAF Moderator / Line Boy
Mentor
Louise is planning to order some parts for her annual, and asked me if I had the part number for th brake pads. I almost responded with the same part number as I have on the -78, but then I began wondering....is it the same part 18 years later? I was surprised that the 08 used a three-rivet pad, rather than the old two-rivet I had on the Grumman....

Since the alternative is having her remove her wheel pants to find out, does anyone know the brake pad used on the early -6's?
 
Cleveland 66-106, Rapco RA66-106.
I always buy Rapco kit RA66-106-4K (4 pads) or RA66-106-8K (8 pads). You save a little money on the kits and they will keep.
 
Thanks Mel - I generally buy the kits - then I have the right number of rivets (assuming I don't drop one or two....)

Paul
 
Rapco vs ??

Sort of related...

The first two sets of pads I had were from Vans, not sure which brand they were. The current set are Rapco, and they squeak. Never had that before, but have it all the time now when very lightly applying the brakes during slow movement. I'd have to switch back to know for sure.

Anyone else run into this?
 
I did not have the rivet tool so I took mine pads along with the plates to a local brake & clutch shops to have them replace the pads. They suggested I allow them to "glue" the pads in addition to the rivits. I'm not sure what epoxy they used. Maybe a little JB weld and rivets? It may make the next brake job tough though.
 
I did not have the rivet tool so I took mine pads along with the plates to a local brake & clutch shops to have them replace the pads. They suggested I allow them to "glue" the pads in addition to the rivits. I'm not sure what epoxy they used. Maybe a little JB weld and rivets? It may make the next brake job tough though.

Wow! Never heard of gluing them on before....but if you have a rivet squeezer, you can buy a set of dies that set PERFECT brake pad rivets from Avery - one of life's nice little luxuries (they cost less that $20).

I have been flying Rapcos for quite awhile as well, and never heard any noise Alex.

Paul
 
Go to Pep Boys and buy some orange anti squeal stuff. It is like rubber glue but is very easy to remove.

Put a little bit of that on prior to riveting the pads in place and I suspect (but don't know) that will stop the squealing.

On many cars they have an anti-squeal plate that goes between the back of the pad and the piston just to dampen this noise.
 
Go to Pep Boys and buy some orange anti squeal stuff. It is like rubber glue but is very easy to remove.

Put a little bit of that on prior to riveting the pads in place and I suspect (but don't know) that will stop the squealing.

On many cars they have an anti-squeal plate that goes between the back of the pad and the piston just to dampen this noise.

Please do not do this!

The anti squeal compounds are meant to go between the steel brake pad backing plate and the steel part it is in contact with (such as the caliper piston)
Brake pads for cars come with the pad material already bonded to the backing plate.

The anti squeal compound is not intended to go between the pad material and the backing plate.

Squealing brakes after replacing pads is more likely related to the brake in relationship of the new pads to the partially worn disk, than it is to the brand of pads that you installed.
 
Rapco vs Cleveland

Is there any quality or performance difference between Rapco or Cleveland brake pads? I'm doing condition inspection now and my Van's Stock pads lasted about 100 hours. Not much. I was expecting to get 250 hours on a set of pads, like I do on my Cherokee. I guess differential braking and a ton of touch n goes are hard on the brakes and tires. Do Cleveland pads last longer?
Thanks
 
Is there any quality or performance difference between Rapco or Cleveland brake pads? I'm doing condition inspection now and my Van's Stock pads lasted about 100 hours. Not much. I was expecting to get 250 hours on a set of pads, like I do on my Cherokee. I guess differential braking and a ton of touch n goes are hard on the brakes and tires. Do Cleveland pads last longer?
Thanks

What will make your pads last longer is to install thicker discs that will shed the heat better. The stock brakes are undersize for the aircraft.
 
Is there any quality or performance difference between Rapco or Cleveland brake pads? I'm doing condition inspection now and my Van's Stock pads lasted about 100 hours. Not much. I was expecting to get 250 hours on a set of pads, like I do on my Cherokee. I guess differential braking and a ton of touch n goes are hard on the brakes and tires. Do Cleveland pads last longer?
Thanks

I get a lot more than 100 hours on both the Matco and Rapcos. First suggestion would be to experiment with using rudder only in taxi when possible. I also retract flaps after touchdown and use more runway instead of brakes to slow down after landing.
 
Flaps..........

First suggestion would be to experiment with using rudder only in taxi when possible. I also retract flaps after touchdown and use more runway instead of brakes to slow down after landing.

Wouldn't leaving the flaps down add more drag and slow you down faster? :confused:
 
Sort of related...

The first two sets of pads I had were from Vans, not sure which brand they were. The current set are Rapco, and they squeak. Never had that before, but have it all the time now when very lightly applying the brakes during slow movement. I'd have to switch back to know for sure.

Anyone else run into this?

It's a plane. They're allowed to squeak;)
 
Brake pad tool.....

Wow! Never heard of gluing them on before....but if you have a rivet squeezer, you can buy a set of dies that set PERFECT brake pad rivets from Avery - one of life's nice little luxuries (they cost less that $20).
I have been flying Rapcos for quite awhile as well, and never heard any noise Alex.
Paul

As we usually do our own maintenance, a brake pad tool is a must in your tool box. I have the formal one with the little "C" frame to squeeze the old rivets out and the new ones in. The pin fitting that pushes the rivet out broke off :confused: and I have since used a nail. Works well. The squeezer is essential for that perfect setting of the rivets Paul describes. It is an easy, simple procedure to change them out and should be on your list of talents.

I have used Rapco on both SuzieQ and the Cub for years and have never had any issues, including squealing. I agree than any bonding glue/goo should NOT be used.

Have you ever heard a B-17 taxi? Now THAT'S squealing brakes!
 
Backup set of pads...

So I'm wanting to construct a spare set of "ready to go" brake pads, already installed on the backing plates for instant swap out when needed...

I've found the RAPCO RA66-106 4 pack pad set as well as their rivet tool to do the work...but what is the part for the backing plate to attach the pads to?

The only backing plates I currently have are already on the airplane...I'd like to grab another set and get the pads mounted up now and not have to wait to use the existing ones.

Thanks!

Edited to add:

A quick call to RAPCO's 800 number and I found out they don't make these parts (#063-00500 for the pressure plate/064-00500 for the backing plate).

ACS shows the Cleveland parts cost for these 2 small metal parts to be over $300. I know we pay stupid prices for aviation stuff, but this is a little too much for a cheapskate like me...Anyone aware of another source of these besides the manufacturer?

And yes, I'm scrounging for used....so if you have an extra unneeded set, sing out...
 
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So I'm wanting to construct a spare set of "ready to go" brake pads, already installed on the backing plates for instant swap out when needed...

I've found the RAPCO RA66-106 4 pack pad set as well as their rivet tool to do the work...but what is the part for the backing plate to attach the pads to?

The only backing plates I currently have are already on the airplane...I'd like to grab another set and get the pads mounted up now and not have to wait to use the existing ones.

Thanks!

Edited to add:

A quick call to RAPCO's 800 number and I found out they don't make these parts (#063-00500 for the pressure plate/064-00500 for the backing plate).

ACS shows the Cleveland parts cost for these 2 small metal parts to be over $300. I know we pay stupid prices for aviation stuff, but this is a little too much for a cheapskate like me...Anyone aware of another source of these besides the manufacturer?

And yes, I'm scrounging for used....so if you have an extra unneeded set, sing out...

Roy:

20-years ago, I did the same exercise trying to find spare backing plates. I keep watching for used parts at a reasonable price that I can recycle into spare backing plate with brake pads ready to go. I am still looking.
 
Wouldn't leaving the flaps down add more drag and slow you down faster? :confused:

Raising flaps transfers the weight of the aircraft from the wing to the wheel which makes the same brake application pressure more effective at stopping, therefore less time braking.
 
Raising flaps transfers the weight of the aircraft from the wing to the wheel which makes the same brake application pressure more effective at stopping, therefore less time braking.

Only if your tires are skidding with the flaps down.
 
Raising flaps transfers the weight of the aircraft from the wing to the wheel which makes the same brake application pressure more effective at stopping, therefore less time braking.

Reasons for being taught to retract flaps on landing is not to decrease landing distance but to reduce possibility of skidding, especially on wet or icy runways. Of coarse once skidding your stopping distance does increase so I guess it can be rationalized that raising flaps keeps you from skidding and when not skidding you have a shorter stopping distance. But highest drag configuration with no skidding will produce best braking. Lowest brake wear will be from braking at lowest inertia (mass not weight or weight on wheels) and lowest speed when brakes are applied.
 
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Raising flaps transfers the weight of the aircraft from the wing to the wheel which makes the same brake application pressure more effective at stopping, therefore less time braking.

By retracting the flaps, I am able to keep the nose up high on roll out for a longer period of time. This create additional aerodynamic drag and further reduces speed. Helpfull on a nose dragger; No benefit for a tail dragger.

Larry
 
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