Van's Air Force
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Electric engine heater?
- Thread starter agirard7a
- Start date
E-Zheat
I use the E-Zheat pad that attaches to the oiler sump and I am happy with the results. If it is plugged in long enough, 2 plus hours, you can feel the cylinders are starting to be effected with heat. Although I don't have numbers in degrees, I would say the engine would be quite warm if it were plugged in for 4 hours. It is definitely not required for that long to have enough heat to be benificial. I live where temps are regularly below freezing.
Application is straight forward and very neat.
I did have a failure which E-Zheat advised is very rare. Even though it was literally 4 days out of the 3 year warranty, they simply told me to remove the pad, send it to them and they sent me a new one. Very happy with their service.
I use the E-Zheat pad that attaches to the oiler sump and I am happy with the results. If it is plugged in long enough, 2 plus hours, you can feel the cylinders are starting to be effected with heat. Although I don't have numbers in degrees, I would say the engine would be quite warm if it were plugged in for 4 hours. It is definitely not required for that long to have enough heat to be benificial. I live where temps are regularly below freezing.
Application is straight forward and very neat.
I did have a failure which E-Zheat advised is very rare. Even though it was literally 4 days out of the 3 year warranty, they simply told me to remove the pad, send it to them and they sent me a new one. Very happy with their service.
AK4x4
Well Known Member
Pre-heat
Here in Alaska we use the Reiff Turbo engine heater and Kennon engine/cowl blanket. At -25 degrees F the entire engine compartment is ~ 70 to 75 including the battery. If it gets really cold, i.e. below zero F it is important to heat the whole engine not just the oil.
Here in Alaska we use the Reiff Turbo engine heater and Kennon engine/cowl blanket. At -25 degrees F the entire engine compartment is ~ 70 to 75 including the battery. If it gets really cold, i.e. below zero F it is important to heat the whole engine not just the oil.
Lan Vinh Do
Well Known Member
Aerotherm and rcs
I am pleased with the aerotherm and the remote switch ( rcs)
I mostly fly around my airport during winter and leave it in the hangar ( take some luggage space if you travel compare to the pad heater )
I am curious about the new hornet heater ( less watt but smaller a can probably leave it on all the time. )
Vinh
I am pleased with the aerotherm and the remote switch ( rcs)
I mostly fly around my airport during winter and leave it in the hangar ( take some luggage space if you travel compare to the pad heater )
I am curious about the new hornet heater ( less watt but smaller a can probably leave it on all the time. )
Vinh
I had the Reiff sump pad on my Cessna and I have EZ-Heat pad on my RV-10. I found no need to use the cylinder band heaters. When I am done flying and in the hanger, I hook up the engine dehydrator, plug in the heat strip I have hooked up into Phillips fancy cell phone remote control switch, foam cowl plugs in the front and a soft blanket over the top of the cowl. Depending on OAT, in a couple hours or so after a phone call to the remote switch, the oil is warm and the convective heat has warmed up the entire engine.
ANother vote for Reiff
I installed the Reiff system (sump heater + cyl bands) after my engine was installed. It is not a difficult retrofit. The cylinder bands go on quite easily: Reiff furnishes the wire harness with good instructions on routing and installation. I personally think the cyl bands are an important element if you're looking to minimize cold-start wear and tear. (some say each cold start below 30F is equal to 200hrs of normal operation) Without cyl heating you're pumping warm oil into very cold cylinders that have w-i-d-e gaps clearances due to thermal contraction. If the cylinders are designed to run at 400F with appropriate clearances, you can pretty well imagine what the pistons and rings look like at 30F.
I too have a cell-phone-actuated relay that I call about 4 hrs before flying. The Reiff system basically increases oil and cyl temps around 10F per hour - up to a point.
I installed the Reiff system (sump heater + cyl bands) after my engine was installed. It is not a difficult retrofit. The cylinder bands go on quite easily: Reiff furnishes the wire harness with good instructions on routing and installation. I personally think the cyl bands are an important element if you're looking to minimize cold-start wear and tear. (some say each cold start below 30F is equal to 200hrs of normal operation) Without cyl heating you're pumping warm oil into very cold cylinders that have w-i-d-e gaps clearances due to thermal contraction. If the cylinders are designed to run at 400F with appropriate clearances, you can pretty well imagine what the pistons and rings look like at 30F.
I too have a cell-phone-actuated relay that I call about 4 hrs before flying. The Reiff system basically increases oil and cyl temps around 10F per hour - up to a point.
Toobuilder
Well Known Member
At the request of the Hiperbipe's new owner, I installed the Reiff oil sump heater and it works very well. At $190 bucks, it should. Then a buddy recommended a similar stick on heating pad for about $35 bucks. Even though it does not get THAT cold here, I purchased one for the Rocket and the -8. Do a search for "oil pan heaters" and you will see a bunch of them. No need to pay the "aircraft premium" for a part like this!
Edit: the model I bought is now on sale!
Edit: the model I bought is now on sale!
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No thermal switch on this one though.
Toobuilder
Well Known Member
No, but I doubt 150 watts is going to do any harm - even if left on forever. Lots of mass in an aircraft engine, not to mention all those cooling fins.
I have a Kat's 24150 150W installed on my superior 180, heats the oil in 15-20min and easily glues to the oil case, on since 2009. I don't leave it on only plug it in a before flight. As good as th reif but only about $30.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200339139_200339139
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200339139_200339139
Kyle Boatright
Well Known Member
What you want to do is warm the engine, not just the oil. As soon as that 120F oil flows through that 20F engine, you're going to have 25F oil and a 25F engine. 150 watts needs an hour (preferably 2-3-4 hours), cowl plugs, and a blanket over the top to make a big difference in preheating an engine.
I heat the sump with my Kat
I think Kyle is right; the cold engine will cool the oil quickly but it is my belief that the warm oil is easier for the pump move immediately after starting. At least the innards of the engine get lubed sooner with preheated oil.
I have my 6 in a insulated hangar so have no real experience starting it in very cold temps. But the 0-300 powered 172 that I used to own was kept outdoors for awhile and believe me it's a gut wrenching 5 seconds or so waiting for the oil pressure to show signs of life on those rare occasions when pre heat was not available. With preheat the pressure came up immediately in even the coldest wx, which led me to believe that even heating the sump is better than no heat at all. IIRC the Continental manual said to wait 30 secs. for oil pressure and to preheat when temps got below 20F.
My Kat heater works great. I do not leave it on unattended though and after an hour on a 32F day my oil temps are 50F immediately after start. I bought two of the 150w pads but the other one fell off my truck and was dangling by the cord. It still heats though. So I'm looking for a good glue and thinking of attaching it next to the other one on the sump.
I think Kyle is right; the cold engine will cool the oil quickly but it is my belief that the warm oil is easier for the pump move immediately after starting. At least the innards of the engine get lubed sooner with preheated oil.
I have my 6 in a insulated hangar so have no real experience starting it in very cold temps. But the 0-300 powered 172 that I used to own was kept outdoors for awhile and believe me it's a gut wrenching 5 seconds or so waiting for the oil pressure to show signs of life on those rare occasions when pre heat was not available. With preheat the pressure came up immediately in even the coldest wx, which led me to believe that even heating the sump is better than no heat at all. IIRC the Continental manual said to wait 30 secs. for oil pressure and to preheat when temps got below 20F.
My Kat heater works great. I do not leave it on unattended though and after an hour on a 32F day my oil temps are 50F immediately after start. I bought two of the 150w pads but the other one fell off my truck and was dangling by the cord. It still heats though. So I'm looking for a good glue and thinking of attaching it next to the other one on the sump.
Toobuilder
Well Known Member
These are aluminum engines - very high thermal conductivity. Warm oil eventually means a warm engine even with zero oil circulation. A few hours on the oil sump heater and the cylinders are warm to the touch.
It's not rocket science.
It's not rocket science.
Cost
As a side note to the cost difference of an aviation rated heater and one for the local auto supply store: I set up a search notification on eBay so whenever one was listed, I was notified. I purchased both of mine brand new in the package for less that half retail. Took a while to get theme at the price I wanted to pay, but in the summer, most folks aren't thinking about pre-heating their engines.
As a side note to the cost difference of an aviation rated heater and one for the local auto supply store: I set up a search notification on eBay so whenever one was listed, I was notified. I purchased both of mine brand new in the package for less that half retail. Took a while to get theme at the price I wanted to pay, but in the summer, most folks aren't thinking about pre-heating their engines.
catmandu
Well Known Member
Reiff Oil Pan and Cylinder Bands
I am in an un-heated metal hanger with no insulation. It is as cold inside my hanger as it is outside. The only thing that the hanger does is protect me from the elements. I use the Reiff system that has both the oil sump heater and the cylinder bands. I keep an old blanket draped over the cowl. It is amazing how much heat is under the blanket and in the engine compartment. I keep my unit plugged in and turned on from the time I put it back into the hanger until I pull it back out to fly again. (During winter months) I also have a ceramic heater that I put in the cabin of the plane to warm up the interior and instruments. I have steam gages. I turn on the ceramic heater an hour or two before I fly.
When I get my RV finished it will have the Reiff system it. We finally broke back into the double digits for temp this afternoon, but it is snowing. Tomorrow will be a no fly day but a plow the airport day.
I am in an un-heated metal hanger with no insulation. It is as cold inside my hanger as it is outside. The only thing that the hanger does is protect me from the elements. I use the Reiff system that has both the oil sump heater and the cylinder bands. I keep an old blanket draped over the cowl. It is amazing how much heat is under the blanket and in the engine compartment. I keep my unit plugged in and turned on from the time I put it back into the hanger until I pull it back out to fly again. (During winter months) I also have a ceramic heater that I put in the cabin of the plane to warm up the interior and instruments. I have steam gages. I turn on the ceramic heater an hour or two before I fly.
When I get my RV finished it will have the Reiff system it. We finally broke back into the double digits for temp this afternoon, but it is snowing. Tomorrow will be a no fly day but a plow the airport day.
BillL
Well Known Member
Bob, I see the northern tool specs say it is not thermostatic controlled, but the same Kat model from Amazon says it is thermo controlled. Can you help with this answer?
Toobuilder
Well Known Member
I have 2 of these Kat models and they are straight plug, no thermostat. This company makes several models of these, so it's possible one will have a thermostat, but not these.
[email protected]
Well Known Member
lots of options...
if you only need it occasionally there are lots options
if you only need it occasionally there are lots options
EZ heat at Spruce. Under $150. Goes on in 15 minutes. Use in 24 hours. Thermostat keeps a 165 degree limit. PHYSICS; heat rises.
Any heat in the oil pan soaks upward to the rest of the metal. Put in cowl plugs and go home. I start easily in Prescott where it was 17 deg. F the other morning. The warranty is THREE years.... have used it. No questions asked. They just sent another one. What more could a pilot ask for?
Any heat in the oil pan soaks upward to the rest of the metal. Put in cowl plugs and go home. I start easily in Prescott where it was 17 deg. F the other morning. The warranty is THREE years.... have used it. No questions asked. They just sent another one. What more could a pilot ask for?
I really wanted to buy one of the electric sump heaters, but I figured I would make an El Cheapo to get by for now. $15 for the heater, $3 for the roof vent and I had the dryer hose/rtv/rivets laying around. 30 mins to covert it to an aircraft preheater. It doesn't seem to blow a lot of heat, but I've used it several times now in the 20's and within an hour CHT's and oil temp are showing in the 50's with a couple blankets over the cowl. 18 degrees the other day and after 3 hours CHT's and oil temps were 80. Plug it into a timer to make it semiautomatic, Plus it doubles as a cockpit heater!
Capflyer
Well Known Member
I also made a very reasonably priced blown heater like Crabandy. Cost less than $50 and has worked beautifully for years. It has a thermostat and can easily be hooked up through a remote switch or timer. I prefer to heat up my entire engine compartment. While the pad may heat up the engine block and cylinders it will not do anything to the oil in external oil lines and the oil cooler. Cold congelled oil on those hoses and cooler will take a while to heat up and flow correctly through the engine. Perhaps that doesn't matter but it makes me sleep better knowing everything under my hood will be warm at startup.
Neal@F14
Well Known Member
Another source of more affordable silicone pad-style oil pan heaters:
https://www.wolverineheater.com/Engine-Oil-Heaters-for-Cars-s/1814.htm
Various sizes and wattages from 50W all the way up to 1000 watts:
https://www.wolverineheater.com/faq.-a/252.htm
https://www.wolverineheater.com/Engine-Oil-Heaters-for-Cars-s/1814.htm
Various sizes and wattages from 50W all the way up to 1000 watts:
https://www.wolverineheater.com/faq.-a/252.htm
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(Bob, I see the northern tool specs say it is not thermostatic controlled, but the same Kat model from Amazon says it is thermo controlled. Can you help with this answer?)
I bought mine at warehouseautoparts.com but don't see it for sale there. I think for safety they all have thermistors built into the pads but not thermal controlled by the user. There is a little bulge in the pad where I think the thermistor is. Since I didn't keep the package info, all I can tell you, I have installed the older Reiff pads on C172's and it was a big mess with the epoxy, and the Kat's goes on well and works.
I bought mine at warehouseautoparts.com but don't see it for sale there. I think for safety they all have thermistors built into the pads but not thermal controlled by the user. There is a little bulge in the pad where I think the thermistor is. Since I didn't keep the package info, all I can tell you, I have installed the older Reiff pads on C172's and it was a big mess with the epoxy, and the Kat's goes on well and works.
JohnInReno
Well Known Member
Another data point:
A 1500 watt hair dryer up each nostril supported by a drywall/painters sponge will raise the oil temp from 15 degrees f to 45 f in 30 minutes. This heat is being applied from the top down so I think it has to heat the metal in order to raise the oil temp.
A 1500 watt hair dryer up each nostril supported by a drywall/painters sponge will raise the oil temp from 15 degrees f to 45 f in 30 minutes. This heat is being applied from the top down so I think it has to heat the metal in order to raise the oil temp.
i have stick on pads which go on with a cellphone call but i would never trust these heaters that glow red hot unless i am in the hangar with them. i have one and really haven't needed it unless i hadn't turned the stick on pads on. i was always afraid something would obstruct the fan [mouse nest] or something would go wrong and the heater would meltdown or SOMETHING if i wasn't watching it.
got a tip for you users of this heater though.......i had a second hose pull the air from the cowl to go back to the heater to be heated again rather than cold outside air. really made a difference.
got a tip for you users of this heater though.......i had a second hose pull the air from the cowl to go back to the heater to be heated again rather than cold outside air. really made a difference.
Heating engine oil
Hello Gents
As someone living north of the border I've been following this thread with interest.
I have a question for those using these o?l pan heaters if you don't mind..
As I don't really know when I will fly the aircraft, I normally get my ceramic heater to turn itself ''ON'' every morning and blow warm air into the engine for a few hours in case I go flying.
I would like to know what are, if any, the effects of warming up the o?l ( let's say every day for 3-4 hrs ) using these o?l pan heaters and then not flying the aircraft or starting the engine?? Will this create moisture in the o?l and results in internal corrosion of the engine or any other potential damaging effects.??
Thank you for your feedbacks
Bruno
[email protected]
Hello Gents
As someone living north of the border I've been following this thread with interest.
I have a question for those using these o?l pan heaters if you don't mind..
As I don't really know when I will fly the aircraft, I normally get my ceramic heater to turn itself ''ON'' every morning and blow warm air into the engine for a few hours in case I go flying.
I would like to know what are, if any, the effects of warming up the o?l ( let's say every day for 3-4 hrs ) using these o?l pan heaters and then not flying the aircraft or starting the engine?? Will this create moisture in the o?l and results in internal corrosion of the engine or any other potential damaging effects.??
Thank you for your feedbacks
Bruno
[email protected]
rleffler
Well Known Member
My DIY heater
My DIY engine compartment heater.
Even though I have a heated and insulated hanger in PA, I keep the temperature down to 38 when I am not there. So I recycled a small heater with a thermostat controlled on and off / temperature. A few parts from the local Home Depot aircraft supply.
Master Flow 6 in. to 4 in. Round Reducer 6.92
Suncourt Inductor 4 in. In-Line Duct Fan 27.92
Master Flow 6 in. Top Take-Off 9.84
GE 4 in. x 8 ft. Dryer Duct 9.99
Reused a heater I had and purchased about 5 years ago the cost was approximately - 35.00 back then
Keeps the temp in the cowl a nice 70 deg temperature
Beats the price of spending big $?s from spruce.
My DIY engine compartment heater.
Even though I have a heated and insulated hanger in PA, I keep the temperature down to 38 when I am not there. So I recycled a small heater with a thermostat controlled on and off / temperature. A few parts from the local Home Depot aircraft supply.
Master Flow 6 in. to 4 in. Round Reducer 6.92
Suncourt Inductor 4 in. In-Line Duct Fan 27.92
Master Flow 6 in. Top Take-Off 9.84
GE 4 in. x 8 ft. Dryer Duct 9.99
Reused a heater I had and purchased about 5 years ago the cost was approximately - 35.00 back then
Keeps the temp in the cowl a nice 70 deg temperature
Beats the price of spending big $?s from spruce.
RV-12 REIFF
The REIFF for an RV-12 ROTAX is a heat pad on the lower block, and a band around the oil tank. 150 watts total.
I found the packing blanket to be the best way to universally heat the engine. With 5 different temp monitors on the engine, all 5 stay within 2 degrees of each other. Middle of winter, usually 90 - 94 degrees. Our airport requires an FAA recognized heater if left on unattended, and this qualifies. We can leave them on 24/7. WORKS GREAT !
The REIFF for an RV-12 ROTAX is a heat pad on the lower block, and a band around the oil tank. 150 watts total.
I found the packing blanket to be the best way to universally heat the engine. With 5 different temp monitors on the engine, all 5 stay within 2 degrees of each other. Middle of winter, usually 90 - 94 degrees. Our airport requires an FAA recognized heater if left on unattended, and this qualifies. We can leave them on 24/7. WORKS GREAT !
here are some numbers i recorded today at the hangar.
i have a jab 3300 with a 150 watt and 25 watt stuck on the oilpan and the top of the block. the 25 w. heaters are on 24/7 and raise the cht 15 deg. and the oil maybe 30 deg above oat.
i turned on the 150 watt heaters for 3 hrs and took some temps. oat ranged from 5 deg f. to 10 deg. f. during the 3 hrs.
cht 76-80 deg. f.
oil temp. 140 deg. f.
cylinder temps. would have been higher as they are heating the heads.
all my heaters are the silicone stick on by kats.
the heater i stuck on the oilpan of my toyota 10 yrs ago to test these heaters is still stuck on and working. these heaters are $20-$30 a piece.
i have a jab 3300 with a 150 watt and 25 watt stuck on the oilpan and the top of the block. the 25 w. heaters are on 24/7 and raise the cht 15 deg. and the oil maybe 30 deg above oat.
i turned on the 150 watt heaters for 3 hrs and took some temps. oat ranged from 5 deg f. to 10 deg. f. during the 3 hrs.
cht 76-80 deg. f.
oil temp. 140 deg. f.
cylinder temps. would have been higher as they are heating the heads.
all my heaters are the silicone stick on by kats.
the heater i stuck on the oilpan of my toyota 10 yrs ago to test these heaters is still stuck on and working. these heaters are $20-$30 a piece.
