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Windshield scratch/scuff repair or polish question

flyenforfun

flyenforfun

Well Known Member
So our painter absolutely destroyed our windshield and canopy. I guess whatever he used to cover it and all of the fiberglass dust he got on it really messed it up. It is swirled and has what can best be described as permanent hand prints. It is hazed and smudged all over and really looks awful. It's very distracting when flying when the sun hits the canopy. I wouldn't recommend this painter to anyone.

Anyway, see the picture below for an example of what I am dealing with and let me know if there is anything that can be done about this. Plexus has no impact on it. Its like its permanently dirty. Thanks everyone.


Its like this everywhere
windshield_zps8646b9d9.jpg



-Matt and Matt
 
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Isn't Plexus just a cleaner?

I'd take a look at Novus or one of the other products designed to buff out and restore plastic. I think 3M makes a really good system, saw it reviewed in one of the flying mags last year. I've used Novus on my motorcycle windshields, and it works quite well. For the heavier scratches I've used some of the Meguiars polishing compounds, but I'm not certain whether they might have a long term effect on the plastic. The polishing media itself is just clay like everyone else uses, but I think they use some sort of petroleum base. Might want to find a water based buffing/polishing solution specifically designed for plexi. I have had no trouble at all with the bike windshields after several years -- but they're cheap to replace.
 
I've used Meguiars clay bar and a spray bottle of soapy water to remove scratches and overspray. It will work wonders but you have to be patient and do the process multiple times as its not very abrasive. This is a very safe route to take.

That said I have ruined a canopy using one of the aircraft windshield polish kits that use an electric drill. I got a little too aggressive with a deep scratch and heated that spot up enough to cause it to warp. Be VERY careful if you get a micromesh kit.
 
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Novus works

I used the Novus on my RV-6. I actualty sanded out some scrathes with some 2000 grit sandpaper and buffed it back out with the heavy duty scratch remover and then the lighter duty. Dont sand with your fingers in one area, or it will distort the view. I took a 150 grit sanding sponge wrapped in duct tape and then covered it with the 2000 grit.

I used a foam buffing pad on a drill. I purchased a cone shaped one at an autoparts store. You can get close to the glare sheild with it if buffing on the inside.

Based on your pictures I would try the Novus light duty. I have a feeling it will buff out. Be patient and only use the heavy duty if needed. The heavy duty will put swirl marks that will take forever to buff out with the light duty.

Good luck. I bet you can get it out.
 
Geeman said:
I used the Novus on my RV-6. I actualty sanded out some scrathes with some 2000 grit sandpaper and buffed it back out with the heavy duty scratch remover and then the lighter duty. Dont sand with your fingers in one area, or it will distort the view. I took a 150 grit sanding sponge wrapped in duct tape and then covered it with the 2000 grit.

I used a foam buffing pad on a drill. I purchased a cone shaped one at an autoparts store. You can get close to the glare sheild with it if buffing on the inside.

Based on your pictures I would try the Novus light duty. I have a feeling it will buff out. Be patient and only use the heavy duty if needed. The heavy duty will put swirl marks that will take forever to buff out with the light duty.

Good luck. I bet you can get it out.
Click to expand...

Sounds good. I just ordered the Novus system. If I use the Novus #2 to try and buff this out, can I use it over the entire canopy? This picture is just an example, the entire canopy looks like this when the light hits it. Do I just buff with a microfiber cloth like I am waxing a car?
 
flyenforfun said:
Sounds good. I just ordered the Novus system. If I use the Novus #2 to try and buff this out, can I use it over the entire canopy? This picture is just an example, the entire canopy looks like this when the light hits it. Do I just buff with a microfiber cloth like I am waxing a car?
Click to expand...

Yes (to both questions). You might want to try a random orbital buffer to save wear an tear on your arms... it might take a lot of buffing. I'd be careful of anything faster, though - as mentioned above, you don't want to overheat the plastic and turn an annoyance into a ruined windshield.
 
Scratch Off kit.

If you are willing to put in the time, it can make it like brand new (I have repaired deep scratches that were undetectable when done)

You can get it from Van's HERE
 
rvbuilder2002 said:
Scratch Off kit.

If you are willing to put in the time, it can make it like brand new (I have repaired deep scratches that were undetectable when done)

You can get it from Van's HERE
Click to expand...

I will look in to this as well. I think I want to start with something very mild like what the novus 2 is looking to be. I am terrified of making it worse. I don't really have scratches I would say. Just light swirling and smudging.
 
Hello there,

I just finished using the scratch off kit that I purchased from VANs on the front right corner of my tip-up canopy where I had an area of scratches about 4 inches in circumference and the process is effortless and works really really well and I would not hesitate to recommend it.

Cheers
 
Dropped mine on asphalt and had to start with 400 sandpaper to get out the scratches. Worked my way all the way out to Plexus and it looks good. Followed these instructions:

During my last engine replacement I decided to take care of ALL the
scratches in my canopy acquired during the last 2000 hrs. Here is how
you do it (learn this at a forum from SNF from the manufacture. This
is what is done at the factory for canopies).

Sand the surface in question. If really bad start with WET SANDING 600
or 800 grit, otherwise for light scratches start with 1200 grit. Work
your way up to about 1500 grit. Use a block where possible and
feather the sanding out a good distance to prevent distortion. I was
really nervous when my entire canopy turned milky white both inside
and out.....freaked me out...what in the world was I doing?

Then buff it with 3M microfinishing compound PN: 051131-06011, then
with 3M Finesse-it PN 051131-05928. These are available from any
automotive paint supply and are routinely used to finish paint on
cars.

To my amazement and pleasure, the canopy (low speed paint buffer)
buffed out perfectly. It is now the clearest I have seen in years. I
now use the Finesse to clean and polish up the canopy regularly. Just
get out the buffer and go to it.

ALSO-have watched the demo at air shows where they scratch plexi then polish out with just FLITZ and a powerball. Works quite well. Need to stay very light on the powerball pressure and the metal polish does the rest very quickly at about 2500 RPM on a drill. As previously mentioned don't focus on a spot or it will distort -work a big area and feather to edges.
 
Canopy

I concur with the other guys about the scratch off kit from Vans. I used on on a Variviggen canopy and on my RV-4 and it really works. I used it by hand, no drill and it didn't take too long. I wasn't doing a whole canopy but for the price I think this kit is well worth a try. Good luck!
 
polishing .....not just for canopies!

you might want to ask around, should be LOTS of hot-rodders and retired bodymen who know how to handle a buffer.
Obviously do a small area at the back as a trial, but buffing out an old lacquer paint job, or blending in a repair is done by lots of painters...maybe even ask your painter if he knows someone who fixes crappy orange-peel paint jobs!! :)
( & that opens the door to asking him to pay for it!!!)
 
have no fear, its just a little overspray. you can mask stuff off as carefully as possible and it still gets inside. overspray is a little demon. :)

a nice wool buffing wheel with appropriate polishing compound will work well. move to the foam pad afterwards.. or have the painter fix it :)
 
you might try Micromesh......You can get a kit from Spruce. It's made for just this kind of thing, just takes about $25 and a bit of elbow grease.
 
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