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Toggles

GrinchF16

Well Known Member
This should be easy ….

I’m looking for a locking toggle, ON-OFF, SPST, Screw terminals. Honeywell at $75 ea. Is that my only choice?
 
It is an old friend, isn't it?

I got into the catalogs and found alternate MS numbers and old part numbers for them and got lucky with NOS when I searched eBay. Especially when you add the word 'lot' to your search.
 
I’ve been using these locking toggle switches on the last couple of projects. They come in DPST, DPDT, ON-ON, ON-OFF-ON and such. The ON-OFF-ON is what I use to select “Normal” and “Alternate” power sources for each avionics buss.

These are solder type (my preference by far over screw terminals), good contacts, rugged and reasonably priced.

Carl
 
This should be easy ….

I’m looking for a locking toggle, ON-OFF, SPST, Screw terminals. Honeywell at $75 ea. Is that my only choice?

I found "Onlinecomponents.com" to have the best prices.
Jereme Carne lead me to the site.
 
QUOTE=rmartingt;1599572]You're overpaying at $75.

https://peerlesselectronics.com/1tl1-3d-switch[/QUOTE]

Oh, I'm not overpaying... That's why I was asking the question. Some of you are gold plated everything but some of you are also cheap so-n-so's like me..

Let me rephrase that lest I be chastised for different definitions of cheap...

Bargain-hunters
 
I’ve been using these locking toggle switches on the last couple of projects. They come in DPST, DPDT, ON-ON, ON-OFF-ON and such. The ON-OFF-ON is what I use to select “Normal” and “Alternate” power sources for each avionics buss.

These are solder type (my preference by far over screw terminals), good contacts, rugged and reasonably priced.

Carl

Which toggle switches?
 

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Is it OK to use solder type lugs in an aircraft? I was under the impression that the wires would break at the solder joint due to vibration. SNIP

The short answer is yes.

I tend to put a piece of shrink tube over the solder joint, and the wires are secured in a bundle so this eliminates the vibration concern.

Carl
 
Locking Toggle

Look on Amazon.

If you're ok with the mini toggle switch, you can find them on Amazon 3 for $16
Search For - T8013-LK
 
QUOTE=rmartingt;1599572]You're overpaying at $75.

https://peerlesselectronics.com/1tl1-3d-switch

Oh, I'm not overpaying... That's why I was asking the question. Some of you are gold plated everything but some of you are also cheap so-n-so's like me..

Let me rephrase that lest I be chastised for different definitions of cheap...

Bargain-hunters[/QUOTE]

Here is onlinecomponents price for that switch:

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/cart/

Just click "I'm not a robot"

takes you to the item in a cart which shows price for one
 
Switches

Something to consider...
Where will you get a replacement and how will you install it if the switch fails?
That's why I installed all standard Honeywell toggles. Nothing wrong with saving a buck. Just be sure you have a plan.
 
As usual guys, excellent replies. You got me exactly where I needed to go. Now, how about suggestions for a push button switch for electric fuel primer…?
 
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Switches with riveted tabs are trouble prone from my experience, and using a solder connection is way more trouble than a simple crimp terminal with screw connection.
Electrical systems seem to be where most folks think using low quality parts won’t have any consequences, but those choices most definitely effect electrical system reliability.
Don’t believe me, just check the almost daily postings of electrical systems problems on VAF.
 
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Brian,

I do product searches on Octopart.com for electronic components. Enter a brand and spec# it will list source, price, and inventory. Since most manufacturers have their own numbering system, a spec# is usually sufficient.

As you noted Honeywell switches are pricey, but worth it. They have a very robust locking and non-locking toggle. Some are rated in the 20-30 amp range. A wide array of throw and pole combinations.

I am also a fan of the AML Rockers. Max amp around 15.

All are tested to cycle counts in the Hundreds of Ks.

My Two Cents:
Doing Condition Inspections I see many brands, price points, and time in service. There is no advantage in being too thrifty. Particularly on a high amp and heavy cycle circuit.

Cheers.
 
NKK quality

Switches with riveted tabs are trouble prone from my experience, and using a solder connection is way more trouble than a simple crimp terminal with screw connection.
Electrical systems seem to be where most folks think using low quality parts won’t have any consequences, but those choices most definitely effect electrical system reliability.
Don’t believe me, just check the almost daily postings of electrical systems problems on VAF.

Walt, why do you consider the switches that Carl linked (NKK S1AL) to be low quality parts? I believe they use a solid and not hollow rivet through the lugs. All non-screw toggles that I've ever seen use rivets to attach lugs (faston or solder), it's a common manufacturing practice.
Thanks
Paul.
 
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Walt, why do you consider the switches that Carl linked (NKK S1AL) to be low quality parts? I believe they use a solid and not hollow rivet through the lugs. All non-screw toggles that I've ever seen use rivets to attach lugs (faston or solder), it's a common manufacturing practice.
Thanks
Paul.

I personally consider any switch with a riveted lug to be of inferior quality, no scientific proof to back it up, I've just seen many with loose contacts at the riveted connection, Cessna master/alt switch for example, it's a POS.
 
Walt knows from experience and I agree, from experience. A Honeywell TL, screw terminal, switch is the standard to compare against.

George Meketa
 
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All my toggle switches are "Carling" and were purchased either from DigiKey or Mouser. They have soldered, quick-connect, and screw terminals. The ones with screw-in terminals were sometimes hard to find, but I didn't want the other kinds, so I had to look around. Here are some model numbers I found for various types of switches. Do due diligence and confirm them:

SPST On-Off 2FA54-73
SPDT On-Off-Mom 6FC58-73
DPST On-Off 2GK54-73
DPDT On-On-Off 2GG54-73
DPDT Off-On-Mom 6GM5E-73
DPDT On-On-Off 2GG54-73
 
All my toggle switches are "Carling" and were purchased either from DigiKey or Mouser. They have soldered, quick-connect, and screw terminals. The ones with screw-in terminals were sometimes hard to find, but I didn't want the other kinds, so I had to look around. Here are some model numbers I found for various types of switches. Do due diligence and confirm them:

SPST On-Off 2FA54-73
SPDT On-Off-Mom 6FC58-73
DPST On-Off 2GK54-73
DPDT On-On-Off 2GG54-73
DPDT Off-On-Mom 6GM5E-73
DPDT On-On-Off 2GG54-73

Unrelated story. I went to high school with Carling's son. Fun times. We used to go to the factory weekend nights and load the truck with bad pallets then burn huge bon fires on Boca Chica beach where they launch rockets now. :D Nothing out there but sand and water back then.
 
Unrelated story. I went to high school with Carling's son. Fun times. We used to go to the factory weekend nights and load the truck with bad pallets then burn huge bon fires on Boca Chica beach where they launch rockets now. :D Nothing out there but sand and water back then.

Kind of related. I almost had 2 bonfires started in my plane by carling toggles;)
An observation I’d make is that these both happened in quick succession at around 7-800h and maybe 7 years in service. The riveted spades were black and loose. They were both higher current devices. Fuel pump and pitot heat.
No point me speculating on the exact failure mechanism but I ain’t using them again.
 
Carling rivets

Bob Nuckolls of Aeroelectric Connection researched and publicised some of the problems with loose hollow rivets on Carling toggle switch lugs, I believe.
Bob also recommends faston quick connectors, rather than screws, for a better electrical connection, so what to do?
The NKK S series toggle switches have solid rivet lugs, are rated at 20A and 25,000 cycles and are about 25% of the cost of the Honeywell milspec TL series toggles. Seems like a good option, time will tell.
 
Mods change this thread category to electrical?

There is some good info in this thread but it will be lost because it is in "classifieds" so can a mod please move it over to "electrical"?
 
If you are going to use a toggle on an important load, be careful to get a switch that has a DC rating! Non DC rated switches do not make and break, necessarily, in the same way as those rated for DC loads. Non DC rated are prone to welding the contacts closed or burning the contacts enough so that they may no longer conduct.
 
Interesting PIREPs on the Carling switches. Food for thought. I think at a minimum, I’ll want to put “inspect panel switch terminals” on my condition inspection checklist.
 
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