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Fuel return line

Weefle

Well Known Member
Tried searching to no avail so perhaps the VAF knowledge pool can help

I’m needing to think how I am going to install a fuel return into the fuel tanks for the SDS fuel system I’m eventually going to install. I am getting QB wings so this is where the grief starts. I’ve seen a few others who have used the Hotel Wiskey style fuel bungs using closed ended pull rivets all installed from the exterior.

Any advice on other methods? Maybe cutting in an access hatch for my hand then I can apply the proseal from the inside? Advice appreciated.

Here’s a crazy idea, why not just cut a T into the suction line and let the fuel circulate in that fashion? Would this work?

Thanks
Keith
 
Don’t do that. The fuel tank acts as a heat sink. Look at my kitlog page link below. My tanks were already built when I installed my bungs. Was no big deal.
 
Can't speak for your configuration but for my Rocket build, I put the return in the tank access plate; just the end of the bulkhead fitting sticking through. Super easy. Ensure you satisfy any proximity requirements from the fuel system OEM. A short piece of tubing inside the tank for the return would suffice if needed.
 
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Contact Ross at SDS or the guys at TS Flightlines. They can both advise on easy, elegant solutions to this step.

Both will strongly advise against 'T'ing the feed line.
 
Typically there is a NPT bung, or a bulkhead fitting that can be used. I assume you have the QB tanks? The Vans VA141 bung or finger strainer port works well----Must be sealed really well. Used with AN816 straight adapter fittings.

Tom
 
return line

I have an RV-6A and did it.
I installed the SDS EM-5F system and on install I punched a hole in the top of the end rib and put in a -4 bulk head fitting with support washers using the access through the round fuel gauge sender panel.
A bit of Proseal and good to go.
Used SS flexible lines to connect to Andair 6 port valve.
Plane starts right up, cold or HOT.
Art
 
Typically there is a NPT bung, or a bulkhead fitting that can be used. I assume you have the QB tanks? The Vans VA141 bung or finger strainer port works well----Must be sealed really well. Used with AN816 straight adapter fittings.

Tom
Hi Tom,

Yes I have the QB wings and your sweet looking fuel lines.....just need to tap that bung in there somehow.
 
Keith---you can pull the sender plate off the rib, to make the bulkhead fitting hole. That way you can also clean out the hole debris. You can use the T-1010 anti-rotation plate for the nut, or a similar locking device.

Guess it depends if you want to pull the plate and reseal things.

Tom
 
Thanks Tom,

I think that makes the most sense to pull the sender and work through that opening. I may also change the nut plates to sealed ones while I’m at it on the sender plate.

Cheers,

Keith
 
Note - on RV10s - you have to pick a bulkhead fitting location that doesn't interfere with control bell cranks & linkages (prior model RVs didn't have this to worry about).

PM sent.
 
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The -10 and -14 are not like other models. There is no large access panel on the root rib. All you get is the ~2" hole for the sending unit. You aren't going to be able to do anything in that small of a space.

You basically have two options: 1) use the Van's tank repair panels and cut a big hole in the back of the tank so you can get in there and install an internal bung or 2) install an external bung.

For internal, you can either use the VA-141 like the pickup uses or you can use a bulkhead fitting. The 141 is nice in that you don't have to worry about an anti-rotation feature for the nut and if you decide not to have a return you can use a NPT plug to seal it up.

For external, you can use a bulkhead fitting with stat-o-seals (although you will have a hard time installing the nut if it's inside), the H-W flanges, or the EFII flanges. You could also have someone copy the VA141 but have the NPT thread on the other end and use blind rivets or screws.

As for location, you basically have two spots that are "ok": at the top inline with the pickup and at the bottom directly below the vent fitting. If you go aft of the pickup you risk running into spar attachments and if you go forward of the vent you risk running into the torque tube and associated aileron actuation pieces.

I highly recommend looking at the RV14 wing instructions on Van's site as well. It includes the recommended location for the return along with a bending guide for the floats that works great. The RV14 wing instructions also have better details on the installation of the sending unit and different hardware that you may want to use. It also clarifies that sealant isn't required on the nut plates. I would also recommend grabbing a couple of star washers to put under the screw head to make sure you have continuity as the sealant tends to work its way under the screw heads.

NOTE: the RV14 return position DOES NOT WORK on the 10 with a VA-141. The RV10 has an extra brace at the top of the tank that the 14 does not have. If you are using the VA-141 you will need to move the return forward and down a bit to clear the reinforcement (and/or notch the reinforcement and/or the VA-141).
 
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