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Help Identifying This Brake Part?

bill.hutchison

Well Known Member
I'm waist deep in my first CI as an owner, working with my local mech and following the most excellent guide that Walt from EXP put together.

I have an RV6A with Cleveland brakes.

Determined today that both of these assemblies - which I'm referring to as Brake Guides (because I don't know the proper name) are cracked where the bolt goes through the axle. Started looking at this closely when we noticed excessive play in the bracket and realized they were both cracked.

I'm not 100% sure but looking at the diagram on ACS, I *think* it's the torque plate but I could be way off. The drawing looks similar to but not quite what I have (500x5 clevelands) in hand.

I emailed Vans and they said it was a Cleveland part and not something they supplied, so I'm just trying to figure out what part this is.

Thank you, in advance.
 

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It is the brake torque plate and it is supplied with the brakes. It would probably help if you told us which RV it is from. It is not from a 10, but here is the section of the plans that show how it is assembled.
 

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Plot thickens - that RV10 diagram posted indicates that it's NOT my torque plates that are broken....it's the U1003 part (in that diagram.)

Is that the same part for the RV6A? I am digging through my parts USB and not finding that....yet....
 
Try pt# U-403-PC brake mount flange. This is the part that mounts with bolts through the spindle. Common to RV4/6/7/9 (as depicted in latest plan sets)
I don't think you need the caliper mounting brackets (has 2 big holes that the caliper slides on) or wheel pant brackets...
 
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Try pt# U-403-PC brake mount flange. This is the part that mounts with bolts through the spindle. Common to RV4/6/7/9 (as depicted in latest plan sets)
I don't think you need the caliper mounting brackets (has 2 big holes that the caliper slides on) or wheel pant brackets...

Just to close this issue out - this was the part I needed. U-403-PC, which is depicted on the C2 drawing if you have the flash drive.

Everything is new for me, right? So the whole process of disassembling the torque plate, removing the brake flange, and then installing the new plates and (most importantly) learning WHY (we think) they cracked was a much, much longer process than I had planned, but the whole thing has been a worthwhile educational experience.

For me, having an actual, knowledgeable mechanic on hand to supervise me has been priceless.

Would it make sense for me to spring for the printed "book" of build plans for the RV6A? The flash drive has been handy but there is no narrative about building things.
 
Did you look at all the folders on the flash drive? I got both dwgs and the complete build manual on my RV-9/-9A flash drive.
 
Bill - is this the crack location? Assuming it is, and I could not tell from your original post the crack location, so I sure might be wrong...

Something to check - the shoulder screws that are used here have a slight relief under their head (where the shoulder diameter is reduced). You need to put a washer under the head to be sure that the weldment is restrained only by the full diameter of the shoulder screw, and not the undercut portion. Be careful to use a washer which doesn't simply move this problem to the nut end.
 

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Bill - is this the crack location? Assuming it is, and I could not tell from your original post the crack location, so I sure might be wrong...

Something to check - the shoulder screws that are used here have a slight relief under their head (where the shoulder diameter is reduced). You need to put a washer under the head to be sure that the weldment is restrained only by the full diameter of the shoulder screw, and not the undercut portion. Be careful to use a washer which doesn't simply move this problem to the nut end.

Nope, you got the location right. And I appreciate the note.

After we got the new brake flanges on the torque plates and re-installed on the axles, we learned two things:

1) The shoulder screws in question, once tightened with the nut, were showing a bit more than just the undercut portion. Ended up putting a couple of washers on them to make sure things were snug, but to your point, the weldment/flange is not up against the undercut portion.

2) The hole through the axle on the left main was not straight. I ended up having to take a tiny bit of material off the lower portion of the weldment hole on the brake flange so the shoulder screw could actually get all the way through both the axle and the brake flange.

I suspect this may have contributed to the crack. I don't know how long ago it happened, but I expect these were the original brake flanges and they had lasted at least 20 years. There is nothing documented in past CIs about this, but that may also mean they just didn't check before. I honestly don't know.
 
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