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Plane power alternator

PeteP

Well Known Member
I have a internally regulated Plane Power 60 amp alternator on my O320 RV9A. My questions is for others with the same or similar alternator.

1. Did you install a switch to turn the field current on/off?

2. If so do you shut off the alternator before shutting down? If I leave mine on during shutdown the Skyview sometimes sees a wicked but bogus current spike. I say bogus because it indicates a current spike that exceeds the 60 amp current limiter but the limiter has not opened nor has the #26 fuseable links blown. I have the shunt installed in series with the alternator so that I monitor the alternator load not the aircraft load.
 
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Same alternator, and yes, I installed a field switch. Guess I thought everyone did.

I've never disabled the alternator prior to shutdown and have seen no spikes.

Sorry I have nothing more to offer than the data point.
 
I have a internally regulated Plane Power 60 amp alternator on my O320 RV9A. My questions is for others with the same or similar alternator.

1. Did you install a switch to turn the field current on/off?

2. If so do you shut off the alternator before shutting down? If I leave mine on during shutdown the Skyview sometimes sees a wicked but bogus current spike. I say bogus because it indicates a current spike that exceeds the 60 amp current limiter but the limiter has not opened. I have the shunt installed in series with the alternator so that I monitor the alternator load not the aircraft load.

A short duration spike will usually not open the current limiter, especially if it is the ANL fuse type.

A 200 Amp spike will need to be over 1 second long to blow an ANL fuse.
 
Same alternator, and yes, I installed a field switch. Guess I thought everyone did.

I've never disabled the alternator prior to shutdown and have seen no spikes.

Threep!, although I have their 70 amp internally regulated alternator.
 
No Switch. Just a push pull CB so the field can be disconnected when some updating is being performed to the EFIS. The field will draw current so this helps with the battery drain.

Larry
 
Moved to "electrical systems"---------this info is pretty much universal, not just for the 9. And, easier to find in a search in the future.
 
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Have the same engine and alternator. Panel was wired by Stein and he included a three position switch which is OFF-BAT-BAT/ALT. So in order to turn off power I have no choice but to turn off the alternator first. I didn't ask Stein to do this, he did it as a matter of course in his wiring schemes. Seems like a good practice to follow.
 
Current issues

Tonight I grabbed my trusty screwdriver and attacked the shunt. Found one very slightly loose rig connector on the meter connections but even more significant there was a slight build up of oxide (corrosion) on the ring terminal. After buffing the shunt to meter contact post with Scothhbrite I replaced the cheap ring terminals with new high quality terminals. Cranked and ran the beast several times with no issues. Now if the mid atlantic monsoon season will reside we will fly for further verification.
 
Tonight I grabbed my trusty screwdriver and attacked the shunt. Found one very slightly loose rig connector on the meter connections but even more significant there was a slight build up of oxide (corrosion) on the ring terminal. After buffing the shunt to meter contact post with Scothhbrite I replaced the cheap ring terminals with new high quality terminals. Cranked and ran the beast several times with no issues. Now if the mid atlantic monsoon season will reside we will fly for further verification.


You might want to Google De-ox
 
I use plain old grease on electrical connections. One might think that since most grease is non conductive (dielectric), it will add resistance to the circuit. But it does not. Properly crimping or tightening the connection will force the grease out of between the metal parts, creating an air-tight seal that protects against dirt and moisture.
 
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