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Tip Up Canopy sealing advice??

billpilot1

Active Member
Well it's winter, and after flying the other day for the first time in the cold, I have a very nice "outside air flow" that is more powerful than the heater!!! I have not sealed the front of the tip up canopy of my RV7a. I know I could put some foam tape there. Has anyone had any success with any other methiod. I had a thought of putting down a bead of silicone and put some wax paper over it and close it down to make a custom seal! Keep out the water, maybe! Any successful ideas? Not sure what to expect if tied down in the rain. Hasn't happened yet!!!
Thanks in advance for your help.
 
Hey Bill,

I didn't think I had a leak on the forward lip until I installed a targa strip on the aft edgt of the canopy. Then I ended up with a nice whistle that wouldn't go away. I've tried various methods and no one thing seems to cure the problem.

The closest I've come is to put a thin c-channel rubber strip (something like this http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/rubberchannel.php) along the forward edge of the canopy lip. Since I only had a strip taped in place, it didn't last long but was enough to figure out that I was on the right track. One of the RV-7's on VAF seemed to have gone this route.

After I get the -7 back from paint, here's my plan. I'll use some glue to bond the strip to the lip, then close the canopy and let dry. That should bond the strip to the canopy lip nicely. After it dries, I'll use a razor blade and cut the strip along the upper surface of the canopy lip so it doesn't show. This should provide an additional seal on the bottom of the lip, as well as fill the gap between the lip and forward skin. Right now it's just an idea, but so far, it's the best I can come up with.

Jim
 
Try Here

www.petesrvaviationproducts.com/peter_hunt_004.htm

I bought the seal for my RV6 Tip-up. Haven't fitted it yet as I need to trim some length off the seal mounting angle flange. It already catches a rivet head on the canopy forward frame without the seal clipped in place. Shouldn't be a problem but it is a "canopy off" job that I haven't got around to yet.

Not sure how well it will work in flight.

Jim Sharkey
 
I put a bead of proseal b2 around the lip and painted the canopy frame with vasoline so it wouldn't stick to the canopy, closed the canopy and let it harden,,, made a nice form in place gasket for the front, I havn't flown yet so I can't say about air leaks but it looks really tight.
 
RTV vs Silicone

I like the idea of the Pro Seal and Vasalene. What would be the advantage of Pro Seal over Silicone, or the other way around. Will Pro Seal take paint better than Silicone? My plane is already painted, so it would be a touch up job at best!
Thanks for the idea.

Bill
RV7a and up to 50 hours!!!! and loving it!
 
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It can be painted,,,it looks ok dark gray in its natural color. It works good as a fairing filler for steps too,,,my canopy front skin was stepped up from the front fuselage skin and it did a great job of fairing the step out.
 
It can be painted,,,it looks ok dark gray in its natural color. It works good as a fairing filler for steps too,,,my canopy front skin was stepped up from the front fuselage skin and it did a great job of fairing the step out.

I would like to see a pic of this. Mine is raised as well and I will need to do something about it before first flight.
 
Seal on 7A tip up

I've had the same challanges. Flying in a rain storm you will moments of stark terror when water starts pouring into your cockpit and onto your legs and worry about your avionics.

I believe there is pressure that pushes our canponies up and out, so under the current build design, I don't think we can get a good seal. I would like the challange someone to come up with a moving hinge design that we could camber over and lock the fronts down tight.

The best I've come up with is the Lowes seal that was posted here. I tried Pete's and it push up my front canopy edge and failed.

Kenny Gene
291.5 hrs in 1 yr 5 months
 
If I had to do it over, I wouldn't have placed the seal flanges on my sub-panel where I did. I had to do a lot of filing for clearance issues between the frame and seal flange and there isn't space enough for a good seal. I also would have filled the holes in the sub-panel with some filler sooner than later. I've tried a few different seals, and the canopy when it closes either moves it, tears it or the front canopy skin raises. There is a real problem on the sides with the skin pinching or cutting the seal as the canopy closes. I'm thinking of drilling the seal flange off and placing a bulb type seal vertically on the sub-panel. I also may try to form a seal in place, but as pointed out, there is a tendency for the canopy skin to raise a bit in flight. One thing before you get the canopy on for good, and are going to place a seal on the flange is to bridge the hinge gaps on the flange. This is where mine leaks the most, since there is nothing to support the seal. As far as water intrusion I believe Louise put some rip-stop material between the instrument panel and sub-panel to shield the avionics from moisture. It could be easily attached with some velcro and maybe someone could come up with a creative drain system. Just my $.02.
 
I ordered a foam c shaped door seal from Steele rubber that works great. It does "roll" a bit as the canopy is closed but that is what it is designed to do (think car door). I believe it is 5/16in tall so it compresses 1/8in down and forward. Probably not the most elegant solution but it does keep the water out. The proseal idea looks pretty good too. I can find the part number from steele if someone needs it.

Drew Hughes
 
I have had 2 occasions where I was caught on the flightline in a gullywasher (once with hail :eek:). My new plane leaked like a sieve.

I have sealed all the "easy places", leaving the tip up leading edge for last.
The following is what I recommend for new RV7 builders:
DO NOT FOLLOW VAN INSTRUCTIONS ON DWG 24 by cutting the seal support into 3 pieces. It can be made in one piece, with two slots for the canopy hinges.

I did cut mine originally (but diff from vans and it still leaked). Below I show how I restored that missing cutout and now have a continuous seal on the front.

FIRST I MADE TWO OF THESE:

1188756030503a263230ef0.jpg


HERE IS ONE IN PLACE before I drilled and riveted

921089535503a2659d9637.jpg


SEALED WITH PROSEAL

749254726503a26a916135.jpg


SPLICED IN THE VANS SUPPLIED GASKET to make it "continuous".

1148503893504656b5afe29.jpg


The canopy hinges fit fine in both closed and open positions.
I have not flown or sat in rain since this, but I have high expectations.
 
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