Im stuck and so is the flap piano hinge rod

Today I finally got to the last part of building the left wing; installing the flaps. The manual says I have two options; one is the drill a hole in the aileron bracket and sliding the piano rod in from that end. As much trouble I had in getting the aileron push tube connected I wasn't going to go through that again. (Big fat fingers) So I elected to go with the option of removing three eyelets in the center of the hinge and cutting the rod in two. Well after much gruntting and groaning, I got the outboard rod in. But now I can only get the other rod in about 2/3rd of the way. I tapered down the end of the rod as a pilot and used lubrication in an effort to get the sucker to go in but to no avail. Now the rod is stuck. I almost pulled the wing off the stand trying to get it out. I need advice. Anybody got any ideas?

Paul
N277PM
Stuck in Lafayette
RV7A

It helped me to move the flap up and down as I pushed.

How to get it out... Are both pins stuck now? If not, take out the one that's not stuck and that's likely to un-stick the other one. That's if the problem is an alignment issue, which is what I'd suspect.

As for why they're sticking in the first place... Check to make sure that the hinge halves are straight, both the wing side and the flap side. If either or both of them are not quite straight, then there's the alignment problem.

Good luck,

When I did my flaps, I started with the same thoughts as you. I didn't want to have to pull the ailerons to get the flap hinge installed. So I removed the three center hinge eyelets and attempted to install the hinge pins at the center of the hinge line. I had the same problem. I was beating myself to death, and couldn't get the second pin in more than a couple of inches.

I finally drilled a hole in the aileron bracket (used a right angle drill) and didn't have to remove the ailerons to do it. After that, the hinge pin slid right in with no binding at all! Turned out to be an easy fix!

Stuck Flap hinge rod

Had the same problem on my RV-8. Use Boelube--dab a bit on the side each eyelet from which the pin enters. It will slide in easily.

I had the same problem on one wing. I also removed the center eyelets and was able to get 3 of the 4 hinge pins in without too much trouble. However, I had a real problem with one of the inboard pins - I could only get it in about 2/3's of the way.

I finally decided to go in starting from the fuselage. One trick I picked up while working on my cowl is chucking the pin into a drill. Working from under the fuselage, I used the drill to get the pin most of the way in. Then I just tapped it in the last few inches.

There is no way for the pin to work itself out past the fuselage.

You can try chucking the pin up in a drill and rotate it as you pull it out.

Finished

Well, saga is over. I took the idea of chucking up the rod and driving it in. But first I used another rod to start from the other end as a guide. I lubed what eyelets I could and the drill drove it in very nicely. The other wing will get the bracket drilled and installed as a single piece.

Thanks everyone for you assistance. I appreciate it. Now I have to wait for the ground to either freeze or dry up so I can get the other wing out of the barn. I sure hope the doors aren't froze.

Ruley
N277PM
LAF

Use a heat gun to heat it up to remove.I removed eyelets and split the pin in the center.I had no trouble putting them in,but after a few years I had trouble to remove them.

Hinge pins

The drill method is the easiest. If you hinge the wing tips, you're in for real treat! Took me trying several methods before I finally figured out how to install the hinges so the pins would go in. I ca almost put them in and take them out by hand. Last few inches requires a little persuasion with a vice grip. I also took out three eyelets and put pins in from the middle. Secured the pims with an eye of hinge, screw and nutplate.

Make sure all the eyelets in the hinges are not crooked. It will make the process very difficult I tapered the pins almost 3/8 of an inch and made sure that the tip was a nice smooth round ball point almost like a pen is. Use my scotch brute wheel to get is smooth then sanded the pin with 2000 grit paper. Lubed it and had no problems.

Once you get them where they belong I used a label maker to wrap the ends and identify which pin goes where. That label is located on the 90 degree bend that is safetied wired to the space between the lightening holes.