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Non structural rivets for Cleaveland static ports?

00Dan

Well Known Member
I have a set of Dynon/Cleaveland style static ports I want to retrofit on my plane which currently has flush ports. The flush ports are riveted in with solid rivets currently (appears to be -3s).

For this application would it be acceptable to use nutplate rivets, for example? Cherry max would require going up to -4 so I’d like to stay with -3s to avoid having to redimple.

I don’t see how the area carries much if any load, but I want to check that I’m not off the reservation here before I proceed. While annoying I can grab a second person to help me buck the ports in if necessary.
 
No problem using nonstructural rivets. Static ports carry virtually no structural loads.
 
I agree with Mel, but the simpler remedy might be to do what others have done...

Drill the existing static port to #30 and then install the specified rivet (with the mandrel removed) using epoxy or JB weld.
 
As Scott says, the standard pop rivet shown in the plans is cheap and works great. It is in service on thousands of RVs.
 
I agree with Mel, but the simpler remedy might be to do what others have done...

Drill the existing static port to #30 and then install the specified rivet (with the mandrel removed) using epoxy or JB weld.

That’s actually what I have installed right now, just with E6000 as my adhesive. The problem I’m encountering is (I think) some sort of turbulence at the static port causing my ASI and altimeter to be quite jumpy as airspeed increases. I read on here someone who retrofitted the rivets encountered this and was able to solve it by installing the new ports.

I’m open to other ideas, of course, given the undesirable task of crawling into the empennage on a -4.
 
Last edited:
"rvbuilder2002 I agree with Mel, but the simpler remedy might be to do what others have done...
Drill the existing static port to #30 and then install the specified rivet (with the mandrel removed) using epoxy or JB weld."

"Mel As Scott says, the standard pop rivet shown in the plans is cheap and works great. It is in service on thousands of RVs."


Which still leaves the existing dimpled holes to fill, either by solids or pulled rivets, your choice. Just insure which ever you decide to use leaves the area relatively flat so Pitot/Static test equipment can still be attached (held on with a vacuum donut during testing).
 
"rvbuilder2002 I agree with Mel, but the simpler remedy might be to do what others have done...
Drill the existing static port to #30 and then install the specified rivet (with the mandrel removed) using epoxy or JB weld."

"Mel As Scott says, the standard pop rivet shown in the plans is cheap and works great. It is in service on thousands of RVs."


Which still leaves the existing dimpled holes to fill, either by solids or pulled rivets, your choice. Just insure which ever you decide to use leaves the area relatively flat so Pitot/Static test equipment can still be attached (held on with a vacuum donut during testing).

:confused:

There would be no holes to fill because the original static port is left in place. The only change is to final drill the small static port hole to #30 and then install the new rivet port with adhesive.
 
That’s actually what I have installed right now, just with E6000 as my adhesive. The problem I’m encountering is (I think) some sort of turbulence at the static port causing my ASI and altimeter to be quite jumpy as airspeed increases. I read on here someone who retrofitted the rivets encountered this and was able to solve it by installing the new ports.

I’m open to other ideas, of course, given the undesirable task of crawling into the empennage on a -4.

Post a couple of close up and in good focus photos of the static port and surrounding area.
 
:confused:

There would be no holes to fill because the original static port is left in place. The only change is to final drill the small static port hole to #30 and then install the new rivet port with adhesive.

Ah, yes. I was going on the mind set that the original ports were (or soon to be) drilled off.
Great idea to instead leave the old port in place and bore it out to #30 & glue the pop rivet (less shank) in place.
Smart cookies at Vans!
 
Post a couple of close up and in good focus photos of the static port and surrounding area.

Here’s my static ports. The needle wiggle appeared with the original retrofit. In response I tried deburring the center hole, that eventually turned into a slight chamfer after a couple iterations. The filing on the front was CAS tuning, it didn’t affect the bouncing.
 

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