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Am I crazy? Building an RV-10

mturnerb

Well Known Member
I decided recently to sell my RV-14A and do another project. The -14A is a fantastic airplane, and I enjoyed the build and flying it (>100 hours). I've decided to build an RV-10 for a number of reasons. Of course some of this is just a need (addiction?) for another airplane project, but there are practical considerations as well.

I've been studying some RV-10 build blogs, many posts on VAF, Facebook RV-10 pages etc. I am leaning toward a "simple" build but I suspect I'll eventually get seduced by some (all?) of the extras and goodies - is there a support group for this?

I got lucky and found a QB kit (wings and fuse) available from a builder who ordered but had a change in situation. Stewart will deliver in a couple of weeks or so. I did QB wings and slow build fuse on the -14A. Not sure how I'll do the wiring and panel. I've been considering doing my own wiring (signed up for the next class at AEA). Panel will definitely be G3X touch/Garmin as in my -14A. I'm too far down that road to change, nor would I want to. I'm wondering if Garmin is going to update the PFD/MFD displays in the next year or two - seems like it may be time to improve the processor performance, but otherwise I'd be fine with existing displays...

I'm looking forward to learning from the RV-10 gurus and general experts once again and maybe even contributing a little to the knowledge base (mistakes and pain tend to foster creativity as we all know!).
 
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Welcome to the -10!

There are quite a few mods that most guys make, here are some:

planearound.com third door latch. It should be STANDARD on all -10's.

Billet trim cable mounts.

McMaster door seals.

Matco brakes. Berringer Brakes are really nice but 3x the price of the Matcos.

Cee Bailey windows and windscreen.

I used the Showplanes cowl and intake. If I were building another -10, I would look seriously at the showplaces fastback mod for the -10. Much nicer lines.

You will NOT have enough holes to run wiring to the panel. Plan on adding more.

SS firewall heat valves.

If considering a yaw damper, put the mount in. much easier to do early on.

Many, many more out there. I think there is a thread here that has a list.

If you are going to build the empennage kit, make SURE you modify the nose of the ribs, otherwise you will get "pimples" in your vertical stab skin when you put it together. Same can be said of horizontal stab, though not to the same extent.

Lots of great info on this forum and others!
 
Congrats!

Turner, as I'm sure you know, the 10 kit is not as refined as the 14 and the cabin cover and doors on the 10 are challenging. Good news is that Synergy now has a shop in Georgia and there are at least 4 RV-10's under construction there now (including mine). So a great deal of experience on site and plenty of airplanes to compare with. Air conditioning, oxygen system, Lightspeed ignition, dual pMags, full SDS EFII, Cee Bailey windows, Showplanes cowls and FastBack mod all on display on different planes. Panels from SteinAir, Aerotronics, Oasis (local shop) as well to look at.

Easy flight from Florida. One RV-10 builder flies his RV-9A up from Ponte Vedra almost weekly.
 
There are quite a few mods that most guys make, here are some:

planearound.com third door latch. It should be STANDARD on all -10's.

Billet trim cable mounts.

McMaster door seals.

Matco brakes. Berringer Brakes are really nice but 3x the price of the Matcos.

Cee Bailey windows and windscreen.

I used the Showplanes cowl and intake. If I were building another -10, I would look seriously at the showplaces fastback mod for the -10. Much nicer lines.

You will NOT have enough holes to run wiring to the panel. Plan on adding more.

SS firewall heat valves.

If considering a yaw damper, put the mount in. much easier to do early on.

Many, many more out there. I think there is a thread here that has a list.

If you are going to build the empennage kit, make SURE you modify the nose of the ribs, otherwise you will get "pimples" in your vertical stab skin when you put it together. Same can be said of horizontal stab, though not to the same extent.

Lots of great info on this forum and others!

All excellent suggestions Bob. I did Beringer wheels/brakes on the -14A but very expensive so the Matco wheels/brakes sound like a perfect compromise. I'd already decided on the planearound latch for sure, and was leaning to Cee Bailey windows. I did a yaw damper on the -14A so I'm familiar with the install. The rib modification you're referring to - vertical stab? I recall doing some shaping of those in the -14A as part of the plans.
 
Turner, as I'm sure you know, the 10 kit is not as refined as the 14 and the cabin cover and doors on the 10 are challenging. Good news is that Synergy now has a shop in Georgia and there are at least 4 RV-10's under construction there now (including mine). So a great deal of experience on site and plenty of airplanes to compare with. Air conditioning, oxygen system, Lightspeed ignition, dual pMags, full SDS EFII, Cee Bailey windows, Showplanes cowls and FastBack mod all on display on different planes. Panels from SteinAir, Aerotronics, Oasis (local shop) as well to look at.

Easy flight from Florida. One RV-10 builder flies his RV-9A up from Ponte Vedra almost weekly.

Thanks Krea. I'm partial to doing it myself, in my garage shop at home. It would be useful to see some of the mods in progress though. Any chance you could connect me with the other builder here in Ponte Vedra?
 
All excellent suggestions Bob. I did Beringer wheels/brakes on the -14A but very expensive so the Matco wheels/brakes sound like a perfect compromise. I'd already decided on the planearound latch for sure, and was leaning to Cee Bailey windows. I did a yaw damper on the -14A so I'm familiar with the install. The rib modification you're referring to - vertical stab? I recall doing some shaping of those in the -14A as part of the plans.

Yes, mainly vertical stab...the nose flange needs to be trimmed.

I found the same, to a smaller extent, on the horizontal stab.

Many, many mods available.

If you are interested, mykitlog.com has all 2600+ hours of my build documented...have a look.
 
Turner---I dont think you are crazy---I've talked to you many times, and you seem prefectly sane to me!

Tom
 
Yes, mainly vertical stab...the nose flange needs to be trimmed.

I found the same, to a smaller extent, on the horizontal stab.

Many, many mods available.

If you are interested, mykitlog.com has all 2600+ hours of my build documented...have a look.

Link to your kitlog?
 
A couple of cents worth.

The instructions need very, very careful reading. This is my 4th RV build and is so far the most challenging. Like doing a crossword puzzle - you need to get into the mind of the compiler....

Also, way to much assembling and disassembling. I can see it may be part of the 51% thing, but a lot of it could be bypassed.

Usual snafu's in the plans, biggest thing is the lack of explanation of what will happen to assemblies or parts later in the build.

Oh, and the need for some Cleaveland specialty bars, dimples and sets.

Other than that - most excellent ........

So far :rolleyes:
 
Of course some of this is just a need (addiction?) for another airplane project, ....

.... is there a support group for this?

No, there is no known cure!

There is a very small (in terms of active) followers on the RV-10 - Matronics forum.

Also, Tim Olson has an extensive web site, including various options, building hints, etc. He is present on Matronics and VAF. If you email him I imagine he will give you a log-in password.

I took the do-it-yourself route to wiring, and, despite the contortions under the panel (try to minimize these!), found it enjoyable. Of course, I've also had an active interest in electronics all my life. (I built my audio panel/intercom, cabin light dimmers, etc., from scratch, just because I could.). Get the right tools (wire strippers, crimpers, etc) and you too may find it an enjoyable part of the build.
You said you have decided on avionics, so I won't go into the choices there! But I would add to the other, already good suggestions: heated pitot (get one with a controller), LED lights (their time has come). Extra fuel depends on how you fly. If you want to go on trips at 175 KTAS, I'd consider adding aux fuel tanks in the wing. But if you're like me - content to fly LOP on <10 Gal/hr, at 160 KTAS, then the standard tanks are all you need.
Also, since you mentioned possibly a 'minimalist' approach: depending on your weight, weight of significant others, and how you build the airplane, you can end up with anything from a full fuel, 2 person airplane to a full fuel, 4 person airplane.
 
A couple of cents worth.

The instructions need very, very careful reading. This is my 4th RV build and is so far the most challenging. Like doing a crossword puzzle - you need to get into the mind of the compiler....

Also, way to much assembling and disassembling. I can see it may be part of the 51% thing, but a lot of it could be bypassed.

Usual snafu's in the plans, biggest thing is the lack of explanation of what will happen to assemblies or parts later in the build.

Oh, and the need for some Cleaveland specialty bars, dimples and sets.

Other than that - most excellent ........

So far :rolleyes:

I'm hoping some of these challenges are overcome by the choice of doing quickbuild wings and fuselage, but fortunately VAF is always here for the inevitable head-scratching moments.
 
No, there is no known cure!

There is a very small (in terms of active) followers on the RV-10 - Matronics forum.

Also, Tim Olson has an extensive web site, including various options, building hints, etc. He is present on Matronics and VAF. If you email him I imagine he will give you a log-in password.

I took the do-it-yourself route to wiring, and, despite the contortions under the panel (try to minimize these!), found it enjoyable. Of course, I've also had an active interest in electronics all my life. (I built my audio panel/intercom, cabin light dimmers, etc., from scratch, just because I could.). Get the right tools (wire strippers, crimpers, etc) and you too may find it an enjoyable part of the build.
You said you have decided on avionics, so I won't go into the choices there! But I would add to the other, already good suggestions: heated pitot (get one with a controller), LED lights (their time has come). Extra fuel depends on how you fly. If you want to go on trips at 175 KTAS, I'd consider adding aux fuel tanks in the wing. But if you're like me - content to fly LOP on <10 Gal/hr, at 160 KTAS, then the standard tanks are all you need.
Also, since you mentioned possibly a 'minimalist' approach: depending on your weight, weight of significant others, and how you build the airplane, you can end up with anything from a full fuel, 2 person airplane to a full fuel, 4 person airplane.

Thanks Bob - I actually was in touch with Tim a few times during my -14A build and have referred to his site many times. I too have a bit of an electronics background (built some tube amps and such) and do have a good set of tools for this, but I need to learn more about wiring avionics and building harnesses, etc. I found a builder who did a fantastic job of documenting his process for designing and building his electrical system and wiring harnesses and plan to attend a training class focused on Garmin G3X wiring. I have looked at Matronics forum a couple of times, will find my way again there ASAP.

My -14A came in a bit on the porky side, some of which was from obsessive priming and such, but mostly add-ons so I'm planning (but will undoubtedly fail) to try to limit some of those, especially the cosmetic ones.

I'm generally a 3 hour leg kind of guy - I like to land every 3 hours or so to stretch legs and empty bladders so extra fuel isn't a consideration for me.
 
Nothing crazy about building the -10. I would rate the build as much more work than my -6, simply because of all of the fiberglass finishing (interior and exterior) plus the complexity of today's electrical/avionics systems compared to the simplistic panel my -6 initially flew with. Being an experienced builder, I figured my QB RV-10 would be a 3 year project. But all of the details have extended the timeline substantially. When my -6 was finished, I thought it was a pretty good example by the day's standards. I think my -10 will be a pretty nice example by today's (higher) standards.

The mod's I've done included:

Matco wheels and brakes.
Machined axle extensions
Overhead console.
Faired (fiberglassed) transitions between the cabin top and fuselage.
Planearound 180* door latch with center safety latch.
Narrow Deck IO-540 with Airflow Performance FM-200 injection.

I'm sure there are plenty of others.

If I was doing it again, I'd probably not fair the cabin top to the fuselage. That's a bit of weight and a lot of work and I think a neat seam there is fine. I would probably consider Vans' stock FWF kit, just because any substitution there results in the stock cables and hoses not working.

I consider the Planearound safety latch mandatory and the Matcos to be a really good idea. The rest of it is personal preference.
 
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Nothing crazy about building the -10. I would rate the build as much more work than my -6, simply because of all of the fiberglass finishing (interior and exterior) plus the complexity of today's electrical/avionics systems compared to the simplistic panel my -6 initially flew with. Being an experienced builder, I figured my QB RV-10 would be a 3 year project. But all of the details have extended the timeline substantially. When my -6 was finished, I thought it was a pretty good example by the day's standards. I think my -10 will be a pretty nice example by today's (higher) standards.

The mod's I've done included:

Matco wheels and brakes.
Machined Gear leg extensions
Overhead console.
Faired (fiberglassed) transitions between the cabin top and fuselage.
Planearound 180* door latch with center safety latch.
Narrow Deck IO-540 with Airflow Performance FM-200 injection.

I'm sure there are plenty of others.

If I was doing it again, I'd probably not fair the cabin top to the fuselage. That's a bit of weight and a lot of work and I think a neat seam there is fine. I would probably consider Vans' stock FWF kit, just because any substitution there results in the stock cables and hoses not working.

I consider the Planearound safety latch mandatory and the Matcos to be a really good idea. The rest of it is personal preference.

Thanks - great list. I'm a fan of Airflow Performance from the -14A (IO390 Tbolt with FM150). Is Airflow an option for standard IO-540 from Van's?
 
Thanks Krea. I'm partial to doing it myself, in my garage shop at home. It would be useful to see some of the mods in progress though. Any chance you could connect me with the other builder here in Ponte Vedra?

Not in Ponte Vedra but i'm building a -10 not too far away from you...
 
Thanks - great list. I'm a fan of Airflow Performance from the -14A (IO390 Tbolt with FM150). Is Airflow an option for standard IO-540 from Van's?

Yes, I know of at least one, mine.

I ordered mine about eight years ago. Ken has simply stated, no when I asked him the question. I kept asking the question over and over until I got an answer I liked.

I was told that if there was no incremental expense for Lycoming, then they were ok with the change. I was given the Lycoming?s rep at the time. He came back with sure, no problem. This was about the time that Lycoming was starting the Thunderbolt program, but Van?s was far from participating.

After the fact, I learned some interesting things. My was the first airflow unit assembled on the plant floor. It was delayed several weeks to allow for documentation of the installation process. Nothing is done on the assembly line unless it?s fully documented. Then it failed QA due to the way the fuel spider was mounted. Another week or so delay while that was reworked.

Van?s also changed the flywheel to satisfy the Brazilians who were added AC to all their builds. Unfortunately that put the alternator belt out of alignment by about 3/8?. I worked with Plane Power and Lycoming to develop the modifications to put the belt back into alignment. To this day, I still don?t understand why Van?s won?t publicly document this issue. They will sell you the kit produced by Plane Power. They should have given them away as part of the FWF kit. I think I documented all this on mykitlog.com.

Today?s Van?s is significantly more customer focused with Mitch and Greg at the helm than during Ken?s reign,

Today, I suspect that you may be directed to buy a Thunderbolt instead of modifying the standard engine sku Van?s buys. That wasn?t an option for me.

If I were to do it all over again, I would probably purchase from an engine builder. Since Lycoming quit selling 540 kits, it puts You in into an overhauled engine out of the gate. But the plus side is that you?ll get better support, especially if you don?t have any experience with engines.
 
Yes, I know of at least one, mine.

I ordered mine about eight years ago. Ken has simply stated, no when I asked him the question. I kept asking the question over and over until I got an answer I liked.

I was told that if there was no incremental expense for Lycoming, then they were ok with the change. I was given the Lycoming?s rep at the time. He came back with sure, no problem. This was about the time that Lycoming was starting the Thunderbolt program, but Van?s was far from participating.

After the fact, I learned some interesting things. My was the first airflow unit assembled on the plant floor. It was delayed several weeks to allow for documentation of the installation process. Nothing is done on the assembly line unless it?s fully documented. Then it failed QA due to the way the fuel spider was mounted. Another week or so delay while that was reworked.

Van?s also changed the flywheel to satisfy the Brazilians who were added AC to all their builds. Unfortunately that put the alternator belt out of alignment by about 3/8?. I worked with Plane Power and Lycoming to develop the modifications to put the belt back into alignment. To this day, I still don?t understand why Van?s won?t publicly document this issue. They will sell you the kit produced by Plane Power. They should have given them away as part of the FWF kit. I think I documented all this on mykitlog.com.

Today?s Van?s is significantly more customer focused with Mitch and Greg at the helm than during Ken?s reign,

Today, I suspect that you may be directed to buy a Thunderbolt instead of modifying the standard engine sku Van?s buys. That wasn?t an option for me.

If I were to do it all over again, I would probably purchase from an engine builder. Since Lycoming quit selling 540 kits, it puts You in into an overhauled engine out of the gate. But the plus side is that you?ll get better support, especially if you don?t have any experience with engines.

Thanks Bob - excellent information and tells me I need to learn more about engine options!
 
Probably these

I assume Kyle is referring to these as the machined extensions.

Turner, I have reached out to the RV-10 builder that lives in your area and will PM you when he gets back with me.
 
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If I were to do it all over again, I would probably purchase from an engine builder. Since Lycoming quit selling 540 kits, it puts You in into an overhauled engine out of the gate. But the plus side is that you?ll get better support, especially if you don?t have any experience with engines.

I just installed a brand new IO-540 engine built by Aerosport Engines.https://www.aerosportpower.com/

They were still able to get new 540 kits earlier in the year. Has something changed recently?

ACtC-3dDk1JkYeBGcrxY8bpsBl1JR8t2jAOTKeAvAMajW6rAtdhwjNR54myiQARVb73CRDjIZSqwGzpNTFtzu3bkKGoMkJ4u30usuKsvvy1IuWOlVoVCLjd-1RaqDsJqhTkVdDuDGqERMvQYLnnZ8DlKuaPPAQ=w1022-h766
 
The instructions need very, very careful reading.

Also, way to much assembling and disassembling.

Never have truer words been spoken. I'm glad someone agrees with my recurring thoughts - why do I do all this work and then take it all apart????

Definitely read to the end of each section. Every. Single. Word.

I'm in the section now where I attach all the tail parts - stabilizers, elevators, rudder, etc. I read to the end and I missed one little line where it said "take the vertical stabilizer off and set it aside."

So, when I was assembling, since I missed that, I've torqued all bolts to final strength and painted a red stripe on all of them.

Right now, I'm trying to see if I can do the last step or two (like installing the trim motor, the fairings, etc) with the stab still in place, because I really don't feel like stripping everything down, removing all that paint (or buying new nuts and washers).

These are some tight spaces to fit my arms into to tighten down a bolt. And when you have spent 4 hours of your Sunday trying to figure out how the %$^& you are going to get a 4 inch thick forearm into a 3 inch wide hole to reach the other end of a bolt-nut combo, you really, really, really, really don't want to take it apart and do it all over again.
 
I just installed a brand new IO-540 engine built by Aerosport Engines.https://www.aerosportpower.com/

They were still able to get new 540 kits earlier in the year. Has something changed recently?

ACtC-3dDk1JkYeBGcrxY8bpsBl1JR8t2jAOTKeAvAMajW6rAtdhwjNR54myiQARVb73CRDjIZSqwGzpNTFtzu3bkKGoMkJ4u30usuKsvvy1IuWOlVoVCLjd-1RaqDsJqhTkVdDuDGqERMvQYLnnZ8DlKuaPPAQ=w1022-h766

That looks great. Engine is a ways off so we'll see what the story is come engine ordering time. I'm not particularly afraid of a "new rebuild" engine if the shop doing the work is reputable. LOVE the black paint on baffles. I did red on my -14A to match the T-bolt cylinders.

How do Aerosport's prices compare to Van's for new Lycoming?
 
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Thanks to all for replies so far. Much appreciated.

After last build I moved all my tools to hangar so next few days, moving them back and re-arranging based on what I think I learned last time...

And trying to figure out how to reduce the diameter of my forearms.
 
I noticed Randy went with regular Van's hinges on the cowling - as I did on my -14A. What's the consensus regarding Skybolt fasteners? I've read that the lower cowl hinges tend to wear out (but seems to me would be pretty easy to replace....). I have no issues with normal method overall, like the look.
 
I noticed Randy went with regular Van's hinges on the cowling - as I did on my -14A. What's the consensus regarding Skybolt fasteners? I've read that the lower cowl hinges tend to wear out (but seems to me would be pretty easy to replace....). I have no issues with normal method overall, like the look.

I used screws across the bottom and Skybolts across the top of the cowl/fuse join. If I had it to do over again, I'd use screws across the top. The Skybolts are spendy, and I don't think the 2 minutes I'll save every time I take the cowl off will ever pay back the time I spent installing the things.
 
I used screws across the bottom and Skybolts across the top of the cowl/fuse join. If I had it to do over again, I'd use screws across the top. The Skybolts are spendy, and I don't think the 2 minutes I'll save every time I take the cowl off will ever pay back the time I spent installing the things.

Not sure I understand what you mean by screws - as in nutplates/screws like wingtips??
 
Inaccurate choice of words on my part.

Axle extensions (to support the wheel pants on the mains).

http://www.aircraftspecialty.com/rv10products.html

As an alternative, consider using the James Wheel pants. I consider the stock RV-10 main gear pants to be way too wide (thus the need or the axle extension). These pants will require some modification of the stock pant brackets (as in bending), but after you get done with the cabin top and doors you will be a fiberglass expert.

Perhaps SkyDesigns will make a carbon RV-10 pant like they did for the RV-8. For that matter it might not be all that hard to modify that one for the RV-10.

Use the Van?s stock pant for the nose gear.

I was happy with the James cowl and wheel pants on my RV-10 project, and will do it the same way on the new RV-10 project - if the new owners of James Aircraft get the RV-10 cowl back into production. Mike at James Aircraft is pressing to do just that.

Carl
 
Not sure I understand what you mean by screws - as in nutplates/screws like wingtips??

Yes. Here's a picture of an extension I riveted to the lower firewall for nutplates:




Here's a picture showing the camlocks and hinges I used on the remainder of the firewall:

 
I noticed Randy went with regular Van's hinges on the cowling - as I did on my -14A. What's the consensus regarding Skybolt fasteners? I've read that the lower cowl hinges tend to wear out (but seems to me would be pretty easy to replace....). I have no issues with normal method overall, like the look.

I too prefer hinges, but strongly recommend using the extruded hinges instead of the rolled hinges for the bottom. I had one side of a bottom hinge (rolled type) with broken eyelets on one RV. I replaced the hinge with the extruded type (MS20001P) and only use them now for the bottom hinge. No problems since making this change.

Carl
 
...and

I installed the extruded hinges and changed to skybolts...

...and yes, I fiddled with different pin sizes, lubrication, and the knuckles...

I could never get that 30" long side wire to go in easily, and the side wires are nearly straight.

The hinges are definitely cheaper.

It takes about 90 seconds to remove the cowl with skybolts.
 
SNIP

I could never get that 30" long side wire to go in easily, and the side wires are nearly straight.

Yep - build it like you want it.

One comment - for the last three RVs I insert the side cowl pins from the cockpit using a piece of 1/4? aluminum tubing as a conduit from the aft side of the firewall to a convenient point just forward of the panel. I do this as it eliminates what I consider is the ugly cowl pin cover/pin retainer.

The pins were all tight on the first couple of inserts. Some light oil and all is well. The first RV has now been flying for almost 20 years and this approach has performed well.

As with all customization, this adds work. So again, build it as you want it.

Carl
 
Great information on the cowl attachment methods. I'm going to study available blogs and kitlogs to learn more. I didn't know about the different hinge types but it makes sense.
 
Enjoy the build!

I'm currently in the never ending fiberglass "fun" sections... :)

Although enjoying it for the most part..
 
LOVE the black paint on baffles. I did red on my -14A to match the T-bolt cylinders.

How do Aerosport's prices compare to Van's for new Lycoming?

Aerosport was approximately $2k higher than a Thunderbolt Engine, then add the lost $1k discount on prop because they weren't ordered at same time from Van's adds up to about $3k more. But, at the time Thunderbolt was quoting 9-10 months!!! Aerosport had mine done in 3. I couldn't "afford" the extra 6 months down time waiting on engine to install. I also LOVED their customer service! I'd happily spend the extra money for them to build my engine in the future.

FYI, here's another pic of my engine showing block is red, but cylinders are black. That's why I went black on baffles.
kQeRmYC-bUDEz2VqUfkcYgvk0061RNmfwuP7X5zsn6OgBiGY25qwe4DEgrHldcf-1UiP3akV-9dPA4jNV6lvYAPotQ4yrP8na1Xvwb-wmslU1oRTyetfyW82KB__y2-pf6kQYmq_MOiTdjJrmkRnIjHHU0E7N4pUAVLH8-ZL2O17Ikxzz-oBgZhN-zc2m2qSC6YQ_A-z1W5njl_-zR0EjuMk2Vj5o5T812QXZta1ZZbCg53a5JJ3l94HsJCM5x9dq0WUrx_rt97W4HZmiyiBoSIN6AUE_WM76w3pBmfLCdfue0Kg3KHx7OFIxPzbeDbe60Sv0tjdXaBuZfkPdXJ6iQzGYCTus1zhkoh92gIeyMFUyGvnNCIl9z9dnMxDImmnYnApuRKi_8ziC9-uXiJbwRU1GywydilEzuVUNtj_IzPoOZmrV2QxbI8C8lmNcslFSgY7U5n0VyW7BNZ6_ToijskJpnHmOZKLYL-wYwt5XDqA5oo8jJX9-jePF01Axc8Tm87_Au5vfPhf9X8kjX28dM_VOEy3pJ9P-XiGKBa5x4j2xB3_X5mUJp1PaJRqizdJ2Tfu_H4iX2o4IhGG4D3Ta8-hftHDXib0bLBYZN9lwpBrNGw7oJHd_ECTP_-LBtnCooWYe_cmQjpVb6WdH906XY-caRgEXzQjEeacvLFxXhvBtxhwIA0-K5aeAiBkHA=w1022-h766
 
My dilemma will be what to do with my build once I win the Sweeps this year???

:D

On a serious note though, I wonder the same thing as the -10 is getting a bunch of attention. I've had a few pilot friends see the coverage and ask if that was the plane I was building.

The -10 not doubt is a -10. From comfort to capability.
It will be interesting to see if all these AOPA articles cause a short term increase in finished -10's.

I agree with all the mods listed.

One thing I did not see mentioned were the Matco brakes designed for the RV-10. This is one mod I still want to complete someday.
http://www.matcomfg.com/WHLBRKWI600RV10CONFIG-idv-3814-4.html
 
The Matco brakes are on the radar, unless I fall for the sexy Beringer wheels and brakes again. I think when you read in AOPA that an experimental competes very favorably in every way with Cirrus, minus a parachute and a debatably better interior (understanding that it's quite possible to make the RV-10 just as nice).

Question regarding Beringer: is it possible to use Beringer master cylinders with Matco brakes? I love the feel of the return springs on those.
 
matco

There are ways to easily improve the return spring feel in the matcos.

The Beringers look really nice but I just couldn't pull the trigger on 3x the price...
 
I think when you read in AOPA that an experimental competes very favorably in every way with Cirrus, minus a parachute

Not so fast - In fact, I spent a few hours yesterday working on the parachute and rocket cannisters for my BRS parachute. That advantage no longer applies for the Cirrus....
 
Not so fast - In fact, I spent a few hours yesterday working on the parachute and rocket cannisters for my BRS parachute. That advantage no longer applies for the Cirrus....

I stand corrected. I'm going to to scope out your build log to see what the install is like.
 
There isn?t a ton on my blog site particular to the BRS yet. Drop me a PM with your email address and I can send you the install guide in pdf.
 
There isn?t a ton on my blog site particular to the BRS yet. Drop me a PM with your email address and I can send you the install guide in pdf.

Any idea what the final weight cost will be? One thing that really stood out for me in the SR22 vs RV10 article was useful load differences. Full fuel, the -10 could carry 4 FAA standard people. The SR22, only 2 people. Now, the 22 has large tanks for its big engine, so a fair comparison would be 71 gal in the 22 (giving it the same range at the same speed as a 10 with 60 gal onboard), which still only lets the 22 carry 3 people. It?s always a tough call to balance safety against usefulness but it?s a factor nonetheless.
 
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