Another priming question

[hardegg]

I've heard leaving the protective plastic on the aluminum for an extended length of time can make it hard to remove. I've had a limited amount of experience with that issue and don't really have the patience for it. I've noticed photo's of build logs that seem to have left it on for years. Has that caused any issues?
i also read a post of one gentleman who was planning to apply the final top coat as he went. i've run into issues with changes in hue, tent or what ever it's called from subtle changes in lot numbers of paint - just enough so that it is painfully obvious. (been a long time and mfr's may be more consistent now)

My question. . . - I'm planning on going with the Stewart system - with primer on the interior, epoxy exterior and priming inside and out as i go.

can anyone think of a reason this would be unadvisable?

(i've ridden a motorcycle long enough that I know I don't want a polished plane - but yes they do look awsome)

[Desert Rat]

I bought a set of wings from 2007 and one of the lower skins that was just clecoed on still had the original plastic on it. Some other random bits still had plastic as well.

Before deciding to buy, I peeled back enough of it to see if there was corrosion going on and it was fine after 12 years. After what I'd read on here I was expecting it to be hard to peel off, but it really wasn't. Later I took it all off and it as I recall, everything came off more or less in one piece.

In this case, everything was stored in a detached (presumably unheated/air conditioned?) garage at the sellers house in Wichita KS, so no salt air worries or direct sunlight baking it on, and average midwest humidity and summer/winter temp swings.

Biggest problem I had was when ran up on a dead grasshopper in one of the middle bays. I was shoulder deep in a lightening hole steering a borescope around and on the scope it looked as big as a kitten. I thought something was going to bite my arm off for sure

[wirejock]

It would depend on color. White and black are pretty consistent from can to can. Any other color may vary from one can to the next. Even buying several gallons at one time can vary but usually not noticeable. Big paint shops will mix all the cans before the job so the color is consistent. The color over aluminum vs fiberglass will also look different.
Just my opinion. I'm not an expert.

[PaulvS]

Originally Posted by hardegg

My question. . . - I'm planning on going with the Stewart system - with primer on the interior, epoxy exterior and priming inside and out as i go.

can anyone think of a reason this would be unadvisable?

One reason is that certain primers, particularly epoxies, must be top coated within a time limit, otherwise the top coat will not adhere. So best to prep and prime the outside just before the finish coat, and keep parts covered and/or wrapped for protection until then (and I mean wrapping or covering yourself with loose film or dust covers or bubble wrap, not the vinyl that came on the sheet). But no problem with priming the inside as you go.

[Kolg]

Van’s recommends removing the plastic when you receive the parts.

[Mel]

Originally Posted by Kolg

Van’s recommends removing the plastic when you receive the parts.

And I agree 100%!

[wirejock]

Forgot the second part.
I pulled blue vinyl during assembly. My interior was primed with P60G2. I sprayed Jet Flex within 30 minutes on parts that required interior paint. It was done so rivets and screws would be visible. Exterior was Alodined after assembly because I plan vinyl wrap.
If I did it again...
Kirker EnduroPrime instead of P60G2. Gray and Black. No interior paint.

[hardegg]

Originally Posted by wirejock

Forgot the second part.
I pulled blue vinyl during assembly. My interior was primed with P60G2. I sprayed Jet Flex within 30 minutes on parts that required interior paint. It was done so rivets and screws would be visible. Exterior was Alodined after assembly because I plan vinyl wrap.
If I did it again...
Kirker EnduroPrime instead of P60G2. Gray and Black. No interior paint.

Kirker EnduroPrime

Thank you Sir - will check this one out. haven't seen it previously - was leaning toward the Stewart eco system as it looked like no hazmat or special ventilation/disposal was required (not that i was going with no ventilation at all) living in highly populated residential area and trying to keep neighbor agrivation down to a minimum.

probably overthinking this but i have the time and better now than when i'm knee deep in alligators.

[David Paule]

With the Stewart paints, you'll still need personal protection. Just because they are water-thinned doesn't mean that they are safe.

I've found the EcoPoxy to be a reasonably durable finish. I'm using white for the baggage area and the floorboards, seat and seat back, for better interior visibility. But I'm using one of the darker gray colors for parts and areas where they might cause reflections on the canopy.

I did notice that a quart of a darker EcoPoxy was definitely a couple shades lighter than the reference color on the color chip sheet I have. Fortunately, I'd planned to mix it to about that shade so that wasn't an issue for me. Got lucky there - but the chances of matching, should I run out, it might be negligible.

Dave
RV-3B, working on the canopy installation

[wirejock]

Originally Posted by hardegg

Kirker EnduroPrime

Thank you Sir - will check this one out. haven't seen it previously - was leaning toward the Stewart eco system as it looked like no hazmat or special ventilation/disposal was required (not that i was going with no ventilation at all) living in highly populated residential area and trying to keep neighbor agrivation down to a minimum.

probably overthinking this but i have the time and better now than when i'm knee deep in alligators.

Kirker is not water based. It is advertised low VOC. EnduroPrime is a 2K Epoxy. Solvent based paint.