VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.

  #11  
Old 12-17-2020, 10:42 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 7,483
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JokerF22 View Post
Back with some pictures and thoughts.

I pulled four spark plugs today, both on #2 and the top ones from 1/3 to compare and look inside the bores. The plug pictured is from the bottom side of #2, so it does appear as though there's still significant blow through there that's making the bottom plug wetter than the others, which are dry. I'm hoping the ring just hasn't seated yet, since I've only got about 4 hours on the airplane. I'll keep running it hard per Lycoming's recommendation.

The other pictures are the best I could get inside the bore of #2. I still see good scoring on the cylinder and couldn't make out any glazing, but I'll admit that I don't know exactly what I'm looking for. The inside of #2 looked identical to the other cylinders as far as I could tell.

Anyone care to pass judgment on these pictures? I'm very curious what you all think.
How many hours now on the engine? Likely a glazed cylinder 2. You need to look at the whole cylinder wall area. Glazing often only happens on limited areas. It also is more common on the mid to lower areas of the wall and not the very top. Translucent light brown coating vs shiny metal is glazing. Use flashlight and lok from both plug holes. Unlikely for only one cyl to not break in. Also, break in alone won’t typically cause that much oil ro get on a plug.
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019

Last edited by lr172 : 12-17-2020 at 11:01 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-17-2020, 10:59 AM
JokerF22 JokerF22 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 23
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lr172 View Post
How many hours now on the engine? Likely a glazed cylinder 2. You need to look at the whole cylinder wall area. Translucent light brown coating vs shiny metal is glazing. Use flashlight and lok from both plug holes. Unlikely for only one cyl to not break in. Also, break in alone wonít cause that much oil ro get on a plug.
I have about 4 hours on the engine. Iíll have an A&P take a look at the cylinder.
__________________
USAF Retired
RV-14A Completed Dec Ď20
N410KA, SN140528
RV-8 project acquisition in progress (tail/wings done)
RV-10 empennage in progress
https://rv14joker.blogspot.com/
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-10-2022, 08:34 PM
smash smash is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Fair Oaks,CA
Posts: 60
Default

I am having a similar problem with oil leaking from the #2 cylinder exhaust slip joint and I am curious how you resolved your leak?
__________________
http://www.smashsrv-14build.com
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-11-2022, 06:02 AM
LR60 LR60 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Trinity,NC
Posts: 65
Default What Iím seeing on my RV14

I believe the residue you see on the exhaust is from the nickel anti seize.

I noted the same occurrence when taking my exhaust on and off and each time I would reapply the anti seize it would run out the joints and stain the area.

Also itís easy to oil foul those bottom plugs early in the break in due to the amount of that is still seeping by the rings.

My #2 is my hottest however not by much. I did the Dan mod during my build and also built me a smaller air dam to really only shield the injector but allow air down the frontal area. My #2 is only 15-30 hotter and I never see over 330-340 on hottest day climbs. My engine runs to coolÖ.they tell me.

Also as previously mentioned in the other post, the governor is an area that needs to be looked over good for possible air leaks which could induce poor cooling on#2.

* as a side note, I never was able to get my right ball joint to stop leaking. Vans recommend exhaust cement, and that would work for about 5 hours. Since this was a bandaid approach I asked for new exhaust,(another RV owner said he had the same problem and got new parts) however, they said no to me but that I could send it in for repair. So I did, They re worked the ball flange area and shipped it back. It still leaks just like it did from day one. I should have escalated this up to Greg for a better resolution but I was reluctant to go down that path and decided to live with it. For now I just built a shield and used fiberfrax and aluminum tape to protect the engine mount.
__________________
Mark
RV-14 (flying since 8-11-21)
SN-140458
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-11-2022, 07:02 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
Posts: 7,483
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smash View Post
I am having a similar problem with oil leaking from the #2 cylinder exhaust slip joint and I am curious how you resolved your leak?
On a good running, broken in engine, there should not be enough oil coming past the exhaust port to collect and leak out of slip joints. If your are getting oil out of the exhaust port, you likely have an issue with the ring / wall interface in that cylinder (glazed walls would be most common). If a new engine, it could be glazing or just not having rings fully seated yet. It is common to get oil past the exhaust port during ring seating, but that is usually complete in 5 hours.

Larry
__________________
N64LR - RV-6A / IO-320, Flying as of 8/2015
N11LR - RV-10, Flying as of 12/2019
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 08-11-2022, 08:16 AM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 4,006
Default

Good suggestions from everyone regarding the spread and air leakage around #2 cylinder though #1 and #2 are typically the hottest and #3 nearly always the coolest.
As a reference my spread is around 12 degree and #1, 2, and 4 are within 2-3 degrees and #3 making the largest spread.
For your baffle, take a good look at the in-let area of #2 both left and right side. My baffle on this area would easily flip outward by the airstream on the outer side. Once fixing that and removing the dam on #2, it brought the temp within a couple of degrees to other cylinder.
__________________
Mehrdad
N825SM RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
N825MS RV14A - IO390 - SOLD
N258SM RV14A - IO390EXP119 - Out of Paint shop & flying
Dues paid
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-16-2022, 09:38 PM
JokerF22 JokerF22 is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 23
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by smash View Post
I am having a similar problem with oil leaking from the #2 cylinder exhaust slip joint and I am curious how you resolved your leak?
I donít have a great answer for you, other than to say that it resolved around the 8-10 hour point on its own. I havenít seen any issues since that time. Patience was in short supply, but it worked out in my favor. Best of luck to you as well.
__________________
USAF Retired
RV-14A Completed Dec Ď20
N410KA, SN140528
RV-8 project acquisition in progress (tail/wings done)
RV-10 empennage in progress
https://rv14joker.blogspot.com/
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:24 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.